Head stock bearings for SFC1000?

redfox

redfox

Hero member
Hello all,
Doing a bit of service on the bike, so I'd like to ask what bearings should be used on the head tube on my SFC1000?
Any SKF for example?

Kind regards,
Jacques
 
I don’t have any advice on brands, but when I did mine I changed the top bearing from a tapered to a straight bearing. I had to add a spacer but makes the head easier to adjust.
 
I used a double tapered roller bearing kit both top and bottom with a very small reduction in diameter sold by Andy Wagnor, did it 20 years ago as my frame had the egg-shaped bearing area and using these undersized bearings loctited into that not round shape apparently stopped the standard size bearing distorting and stuffing up the steering. It does take multiple bearing preload adjustments to get this right. If your frame section is nice and round using a bottom tapered roller and a non-taper up top is way easier to adjust. I also added a stainless upper bearing cover cap from the stainless bloke in England, I forgot who that is, but someone here will know.
 
Thanks. I have taken out the original ones, and they are Italian, something like "Gnutti", "Italy", and "3020SA" and is double tapered roller bearing, and runs true and light, but now old, and it's time to install a new set.
I am after say a set of SKF or similar quality bearings if possible.

Any reliable dimensions?

Could that stainless supplier be Medina Italia? Or Ralph?

Kind regards,
Jacques
 
I’m sure this had been done ti death many times real “search” function can be your friend
For me I run straight roller top and taper lower even on
 
62052RS too 30205 lower
Nitto bearings are cool 😎 made in Japan
SKF can also be good just make sure you check where made as hmm a lot are now made in China and shh but they are crap

The Japs make some Dam fine bearings but please stay away from any from Korea or PRC ( as not only are they crap but you’ll feel the rath of TC 😂😂) shh don’t mention his battery fiasco 😉 😉

Never been a fan of taper tops but hey 👋 but as I don’t do enough k’s to have an opinion then guess it don’t count
 
2622 said:
For me I run straight roller top and taper lower
Click to expand...
A straight roller top bearing is an unusual choice. Most people either use a tapered roller or a ball bearing at the top.
A straight (cylindrical) roller is not good at taking any axial load, so what does the top nut tighten against when you adjust the bearing clearance?

I suppose as long as you choose a bearing with a lip on the edge of the bearing races so the inner race can't slide out, that's all you need. There's rarely any downward load on the steering stem. Or have you fitted some kind of thrust washer/shim arrangement under the top clamp?
 
I suppose a lower tapered bearing and a roller or ball bearing at the top works as long as the upper bearing 'floats' any side load would steff the bearing quick time I reckon.
 
Reckon what is actually meant is a caged ball, not a roller top. Std setup on all pre RGS Laverda twins and triples was taper bottom and caged ball top FWIK. have run twin tapers for yonks with zero probs. Gone back to taper bottom, ball top on the SFQ.
 
Andy said:
If there’s any side loading on the top bearing, the nut’s too tight, surely?
Click to expand...
The nut causes thrust (axial) loading if too tight, not side (radial) loads.

2622 said:
62052RS too 30205 lower
Click to expand...

OK, 620252RS is a deep groove ball bearing, not a roller bearing. Makes much more sense.
Although you could probably get away with a roller top bearing 99.9% of the time. The other 0.01% is unlikely to end in disaster, but could feel a bit wobbly.
 
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