Hello guys, new forum member with fuel problem RGA/RGS 1000 year 1985

F

flyingdutchie

New member
Location
netherlands
After not useing the bike for too long I have been busy servicing it a bit and letting it run. At the first attempts the carbs were leaking fuel. I got it running and it sdtopped leaking fuel. It did rum okay, picked up revs oke. From low revs it sometimes had a faal back, but then picked up again. I also added some cleaner for the fuel system. But a couple of days ago it had been for quite a while in the garage and then the engine stalled. I tried to start it 2-3 times with a little bit choke. It did not start. I broke the chokelever. Yester day fitted a new one and tried to start it again. I did let all the old fuel out before. Filled it with 5 litres of Aspen 4 fuell. Tried to start the bike again but it would not start. Checked the spark. It was sparking. Sparkplug was dry. So, it does not seem to get fuel the the combustion chamber. What could be the reason?
 
do not EVER run the bike with flooding carburettors, this can easily cause a hydraulic lock and result in a bent con rod, which will later break when the motor runs again, sometimes much later!

warning over.

Very likely the float valve tips on your bike are effected by the ethanol in the fuel, you may also have blockages in the jets and drillings caused by lack of use, you will have to remove the bank of carburettors to you workbench , seperate each carb from the bank and strip each carb, replace the float valve tips with new ones suitable for ethanol, usually coloured red, old one are coloured black. remove all the brass work, clean everything, spray carb cleaner in every orifice and blow through using an air line, toilet duck in a pot is a very good way to clean the brass parts, leave them to soak overnight, rebuild the carbs using Dellortto gasket and O ring kits, be specially careful of the O ring, brass washer and spring in the channel for the pilot screw (very often omitted or the old O ring left in situ), if you see any  marks on the needles, then replace them, fit new emulsion tubes if you replace the needles , the same goes for the slides, any scoring and replace them, set the float heights accurately, once rebuilt and remounted as a bank, refit to the bike and balance using high quality balancing gauge or gauges.

OR< you could simply take them off as a bank, and put them in a box and send them to Ducattipaddy here in the UK, he will go over the whole kit, and he has all the spares you need, and then send them back to you in a box, for you to refit and balance.

So you have two choices, rebuild yourself, or send to Ducatti Paddy, well there is a third and that is don't bother, leave it in the garage, and sell to me.

CLEM
 
Maybe a silly question?.. I am more used to do small things on classic cars?. Isn't there something like a fuel pump or is it all integrated in the function of the carbs? Last ime it started on the button and I think there are some ethanol in the carbs, but now there isn't any fuel coming through?..
 
Yester day fitted a new one and tried to start it again. I did let all the old fuel out before.
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Did you remove the old fuel from the carburettor float bowls before filling with Aspen? 

I suggest you remove all 3 float bowls to see if there is any fuel in them.  If there is - and it is Aspen - then you probably have suffered cold fouling of the spark plugs.  Replace all 3 spark plugs with new and try again.

If there is no fuel in the float bowls, then there is a blockage. Check fuel flows from the tank fuel taps. If it does, then you need to check the filters in your carburettors.  If they are clean, then clean / overhaul the carburettors as Clem suggests.
 
flyingdutchie said:
Maybe a silly question?.. I am more used to do small things on classic cars?. Isn't there something like a fuel pump or is it all integrated in the function of the carbs? Last ime it started on the button and I think there are some ethanol in the carbs, but now there isn't any fuel coming through?..
Click to expand...

Laverdas don't have no fuel pumps, on all old clunkers gravitational force does the trick ...

Cheers
Jo
 
You have no experience of older motorcycles?
A Laverda triple is not a good machine to start with.
Neither for you, nor for the bike.
Paul
 
Laverdas triples do have fuel pumps, and the 750's from SF1 onwards,one in each carb, and when the slide covers the bell crank/piston of the pump it squirts raw fuel straight into the inlet tract, this very often, can get a bike started if it has blocked primary jets (very likely) but usually it wont run for long, just a matter of seconds maybe only two of them.
CLEM
 
but Laverda's are just like good and old Italian women, mature, sensible, well cared for, nicely dressed, pleasant aroma's, good looking and usually grateful for UK male company,
aint that right Chrissiewissy???
CLEM
 
may I ask how you drained the old fuel? Only by opening the pet-cocks and letting it run out? Or did you really take the pet cocks out, cleaned them, took the tank off the bike and turned it to make sure there is no water anymore?

Reason I am asking: water is heavier than fuel. It will go down to the lowest point where - guess what - the pet-cocks sit. water has a higher surface density than fuel and might not completely drain through the "filters" on the pet cocks. So - the right way to do it is to make sure the fuel tabs /pet cocks go off their seats (be carefull, one is left hand, other is right hand turn! Make sure to order 2 new gaskets before you remove them!) and to make sure there is not one drop of water in the tank.

Next point is: if your float bowls overflow or leak fuel, there is something wrong. fuel leaking can be either the round paper gasket at the float bowl screw or - much more likely - the rubber gasket sitting in the contact surface between float bowl and carburator. They should be replaced when leaking. With fuel, they git a bit bigger and might seal for the moment, but next time they dry out, they will leak again.

If no fuel is coming, there is definitely something blocked. Follow the fuel from tank to the fuel filters (if existing), to the fuel filters sitting in the carbs (under the little cover where the fuel lines are mounted) to the float bowl and further through the jets to the intake.

Once you are at it, make sure that the float hights is correct. Personally, I check that with carbs mounted, one bowl removed. Now use a tool like this:

bild1_7225279.jpg


adjust it to 18mm, hold the floats high with it and open one side pet cock. No fuel shall run. now lower the tool above just a mm and see if fuel comes out. If not, float level is to low. If it already runs although you push it up, float level is to high. Adjust accordingly and mount the float bowl again. Repeat with next carb and then with the 3rd.

Next point on Bikes starting badly: make sure, all 3 choke sliders close fully when shut and that they move all at the same level. If not, adjust with the adjuster under the rubber part where the choke cable goes into the carburator.

Once the bike starts good, make sure to adjust the idle only by the central idle screw and only when the bike is fully warmed up!

If that all does not work, it is rebuild time for your carburators.

HTH
 
CLEMTOG said:
but Laverda's are just like good and old Italian women, mature, sensible, well cared for, nicely dressed, pleasant aroma's, good looking and usually grateful for UK male company,
aint that right Chrissiewissy???
CLEM
Click to expand...

A misrepresented idea of a imaginary italian women world
 
Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond said:
Good looking tool that Lothar !
Click to expand...

very handy I must say... made of metal, not cheap though (roughly 30?).

If interested, search for JMP A-6250 or JMP float hight measuring tool or similar. Or try to order it f.e. here:

https://www.biketeile-service.de/en/tools/motorcycletools/engine/carburettor/carbfloatheightmeasuringtool.html

 
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