How far does your clutch pushrod stick out?

markQLD said:
will go and have another dekko. i hate farken mysteries !! >:D
Click to expand...
a mystery no more! yea, took me own advice and had another dekko.
can remember a couple of odd witness marks on the inside of the clutch pressure plate, but immediately put that down to the DPO 'cause Clyde came with a lot of lost buggage! but today i reckon the witness marks have been caused by the DCO (dickhead current owner).
a couple of photos which show what Clyde has been trying to tell the DCO.
IMG_2029.jpg

IMG_2031-1.jpg

so i reckon the rods have always been too short and the DCO wasn't paying attention during the reassembly and didn't notice that the key had dislodged.
explains a few other things i reckon;
1:- during the 1st service, the boss thought the cable lever was sitting a bit further out than normal, in the sprocket cover.
2:- after the fang up the Mt Lindesay, the clutch lever was real loose at the pub and needed a lot of adjustment on the bars, but it was working.
3:- after the fang down the Mt Lindesay, the clutch lever was gone completely. no adjustment left at the cable lever.
i.e. the fang up got the key moving, and the fang down got the key reset in the correct place.

ay Piet, i'm still interested in the rod lengths ya got,, but don't want ya pulling any covers off ya cycles. hoped ya might have it scribbled down in ya note book. i like ya 3 rod + 2 ball concept, might give that a go. for now, i'll just throw in 1 extra ball for a dummy assemble and see how the length works out.
cheers

,, and the lesson is; if ya want to sort ya Lav? go for a farken good fang! ya gotta luv ya Lav.  (Lavflag)
 
The key can fall out like that during assembly. I normally make sure it is all working ok and lifting clean before fitting the outer drum. No harm done and another thing you will always check from now on.  ;)


  Keith
 
Wouldn't it be better to ditch the key and stick a ball bearing in there with a blank in the centre?
Then you wouldn't have turning forces on the rods and balls at all, they wouldn't gaul up.
 
Simon,

No space for an axial bearing, the construction of the clutch as it is won't allow it. 

The mainshaft actually continues further than the key.  The key travels in a slot in the mainshaft, and the protruding ends engage in the recess of the pressure plate.

piet
 
The pushrod/ball assembly in my bike was too short when I put new platesd in (looks like DPO cut it down to accommodate clutch plates worn too thin). I wanted to get the bike going ASAP but didn't have any material to hand to make a longer rod. But I had a lump of aluminium bar of sufficient diameter, so I turned up a washer about 5mm thick to sit between the toggle bar and pressure plate. Worked perfectly and is still in there. Might be an easier option for you too Mark.

Cheers,
Cam
 
so the answer to Tony's topic question is 11 mm, i reckon. from end of shaft. that's using cable actuation for a '78 1200.

did a dummy assembly and one extra ball is a bit too much. so will run with 256 mm for rods, end to end. (that's +5 mm)
the cable lever down in the cover has a reduction of about 4.5:1, for cable to rod travel.

, & ya right Iceman, a bloke is lucky the pressure plate hasn't hung up on the end of the splines. 'cause with no free play in the cable, the plate travel is a bee's dick more than the spline engagement.
cheers, lucky Mark
 
markQLD said:
so the answer to Tony's topic question is 11 mm, i reckon. from end of shaft. that's using cable actuation for a '78 1200.

did a dummy assembly and one extra ball is a bit too much. so will run with 256 mm for rods, end to end. (that's +5 mm)
the cable lever down in the cover has a reduction of about 4.5:1, for cable to rod travel.

, & ya right Iceman, a bloke is lucky the pressure plate hasn't hung up on the end of the splines. 'cause with no free play in the cable, the plate travel is a bee's dick more than the spline engagement.
cheers, lucky Mark
Click to expand...

Mark from da canefields,

Tony has a 120... different lengths, remember. :D  120s protrude a lot further, around 25mm at least.

You could cut one of your rods and insert an extra ball between the 2 bits.  Would need to trim off a bit and re-harden the cut ends.  Nicer though to make 3 rods of equal length, gives them less room to cant over and produce friction within the shaft.

Sorry, cannot measure for you today, just called OCT I'm not coming, roads blocked due to heavy snowfall.  Not so much a problem with the snow, it's the thousands of dickheads not being able to cope with it... turned around after a frustrating hour for 15km, would have taken another 3 hours for the remaining 35!

piet
 
breganzane said:
I just measured the rods out of Ed's '79 1200 which is disemboweled on my bench right now and each rod is 123.5mm, plus a 6mm ball.
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thanks Steve, interesting 'cause that's 253 mm, end to end, and Clyde's original rods are 251.3 mm end to end. (1/4" ball)
reckon these clutch plates might be a bit 'fat' (~3.3 mm) and also make a difference? considering the cover lever is a 4.5:1 reduction.
thanks for the measuring blokes. & i'm kinda pleased it ain't farken snowing in Queensland at the mo'. :D
cheers

,, & gotta metre of 'silver steel' heading up from down south. $14 from Blackwoods seems ok? & i wanna 'av a dekko at the local heat treatment bloke that Redax has been using. so one step at a time. looking forward to the next farken fang with Clyde! that clutch is gunna get a real workout!
 
Tony said:
But before I pull the primary side to pieces, does anyone know or could measure how far the pushrod should protrude from the mainshaft?

I've got a 25.5mm
T
Click to expand...

Finally got back in the shed last night to put the RGS back together.

Well, my pushrod now sticks out past the mainshaft by 30mm (not the 25mm that I had previously.)

I still can't get my head around the fact that the cycle ball bearing that's been in there for the last 6 years has disappeared without a trace but...

As Sheclock Holmes would say "...when you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth."

T.
 
Hi Tony,

you are not alone... this happened once in a while to several people. Not sure how it actually happens (long time process or single, kind of "explosion" incident), but it happens.
 
For da man from da canefields... :D

Pushrods for cable operation, 123.5mm.
Pushrods for hydraulic operation, 133.5mm.

piet
 
Lothar
I'm guessing it's a bit of both then, years and years of grinding the ball between the push rods until one day when the ball finally gives up!

To quote Bob Marley "Everyday da bucket go a well, one day the bottom will a drop out"

Piet
I've got an extra metal plate in my clutch between the rear two frictions, guess that's why I'm only protruding by 30mm to your 33.5mm.

Later
T
 
sfcpiet said:
Pushrods for cable operation, 123.5mm.
Pushrods for hydraulic operation, 133.5mm.
Click to expand...

180 hydraulic clutch shares the rods with the cable types...

Guess the revised gearbox cover of the 120s places the slave quite a bit further outboard.

piet
 
The pushrod nearest the sprocket cover on the TS hydraulic clutch is longer than the one on a cable clutch.
Well, it was on my TS. Still got it in a bag somewhere.
 
Hello all.
About a month ago I took the clutch slave cylinder cover off so I could grease up the end of the piston and ball bearing in the slave cylinder.
I took out the push rod, and put a dab of grease on the end, I thought I would try to get the ball out on the grease, so I could check it out. It got jammed up in there when I pushed it back in, I had to use pliers to get it back out. Some small bits of black plastic looking stuff came out of the hole. Looked like dried up gasket goo, or part of a seal, maybe. I pushed the rod back in, and it freed up. I put it back together and have ridden it a couple of times since.

Yesterday, I did the same thing, and the rod jammed up a second time, and I needed pliers to get it out. More black plastic looking stuff came out, bigger bits this time. While the rod was out, I was using a rag to wipe away some grease from around the hole, and saw a bit of metal amongst the grease. I think it came out of the hole. I am pretty sure it was not on the rag already. It is a coiled/twisted bit of wire. See photo.

WuZhKxx.jpg


Could it be the remains of a seal?

I have been planning on pulling the clutch drum off to inspect the clutch. It rattles like blazes, even after I replaced the primary chains and clutch rubbers. It is very noisy when in neutral, with the clutch lever out. When I pull the clutch lever in, it quietens down considerably.

I?ve always been worried about getting it back together without the special tools, but I have been doing some reading on here about it, and I?m not so worried about that anymore. I?m more worried about the funny bits that came out of my hole.
J5SeHlI.jpg

 
Check clutch drum end float. Should be shims eitber side of the drum so that there is negligible end float up to the. circlip on the shaft.
The only seal in that region is right at the entrance where the pushrod exits.
Looks like it needs investigating.
 
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