How is it to mount extender arm to clutch

Keep persevering  Miguel,
My 3c clutch was a bitch, With Bretts help we lightened the springs and extended the pushrod, only by about 1.5m but made all the difference.
There was no way I was putting one of those ugly clutch arms on, thats just not cricket :D
 
TC said:
Keep persevering  Miguel,
My 3c clutch was a bitch, With Bretts help we lightened the springs and extended the pushrod, only by about 1.5m but made all the difference.
There was no way I was putting one of those ugly clutch arms on, thats just not cricket :D
Click to expand...

How did you lightened the springs??

P.S. When I mange to fix it, I promise a video showing the amount of fingers needed :LOL:

Miguel
 
Just used some old springs if I remember, you wont get it to two fingers ever, but you can get it pretty good, better than the Laverda hydraulic clutch :LOL:
I reckon the main benefit came from the slightly longer push rod.
Make sure everything is greased up nicely and the cable run is as it should be.
Ive spent heaps of time on mine as have many people on this forum, and it is possible to make them good enough.
 
Where I live to the closest bike road I pass through 15 sets of traffic lights, so typically that down 3 gears to stop and up 3 gears to go. That works out to 15 x 6 clutch pulls in half and hour just to get there and the same to get back.Thats 90 clutch pulls in 30 minutes or one ever 3 minutes. It was doing me permanent physical damage to my hand and wrist.There was no Brett in my life back then, loved the bike and hated that clutch. Thankfully Phil Todd's extended clutch appeared.
 
TC said:
Just used some old springs if I remember, you wont get it to two fingers ever, but you can get it pretty good, better than the Laverda hydraulic clutch :LOL:
I reckon the main benefit came from the slightly longer push rod.
Make sure everything is greased up nicely and the cable run is as it should be.
Ive spent heaps of time on mine as have many people on this forum, and it is possible to make them good enough.
Click to expand...

why does a longer rod soften the clutch? ::) i would say as first thought that a longer rod just changes the position of the cable tensioner (a bit shorter)

I have to say also that I have only tried it with engine off and dry (just the assembly oil) maybe once riding gets better....

Miguel
 
Clutch spring pre-load can be reduced somewhat with a spacer/washer under the head of the spring locating screw.  Laverda actually applied this trick themselves on the Jota 120, part # 33 111 121.  I thought initially the spacers were there to compensate the additional thickness of the "anti-rattle" clutch pack, but the hub is altered to take up the extra plate.  The anti-rattle clutch was introduced a lot earlier, without the spacers. 

Longer rod doesn't necessarily "lighten" the clutch, just gives maximum mechanical leverage/advantage.  Every little bit counts and adds up.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Clutch spring pre-load can be reduced somewhat with a spacer/washer under the head of the spring locating screw.  Laverda actually applied this trick themselves on the Jota 120, part # 33 111 121.  I thought initially the spacers were there to compensate the additional thickness of the "anti-rattle" clutch pack, but the hub is altered to take up the extra plate.  The anti-rattle clutch was introduced a lot earlier, without the spacers. 

Longer rod doesn't necessarily "lighten" the clutch, just gives maximum mechanical leverage/advantage.  Every little bit counts and adds up.

piet
Click to expand...

mmm interesting, the washer is actually a very good idea to reduce spring preload, I will definitely try it if all the rest doesn't help.

Are there any issues installing 6 x 27kP springs? any risk for clutch slip?

Miguel
 
I wouldn't fit any clutch plates until you've sorted the clutch pull action, springs, pushrods and balls in the system. Also check the little 'wheel' in the RH clutch cover that the lever pivots from and the  lever itself.

Not quite sure why you're averse to the tiny mod required to fit a longer clutch arm - you already have non-std pegs and all sorts of other non-std stuff. My light clutch setup with the slot is very unobtrusive ... and I also dislike the odd-shaped DAM long arm version. One tiny slot!!

I reckon even if I were a rivet counter buying a virtually factory-std bike, I'd happily accept the little slot in the cover - didn't all Slater Jotas come with it? I simply can't live with a std Lav clutch - AFAIC it makes the whole bike feel heavy and hard to ride.

Also, wondering why you've mounted your choke cable like that??? The std fitment on the clutch lever is very tidy.

Bike looks great. And that car is a ripper!
 
If anybody really, really objects to cutting a slot in the sprocket cover, I can supply NOS genuine SFC covers with all their cut-outs. :D

piet
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
I wouldn't fit any clutch plates until you've sorted the clutch pull action, springs, pushrods and balls in the system. Also check the little 'wheel' in the RH clutch cover that the lever pivots from and the  lever itself.

Not quite sure why you're averse to the tiny mod required to fit a longer clutch arm - you already have non-std pegs and all sorts of other non-std stuff. My light clutch setup with the slot is very unobtrusive ... and I also dislike the odd-shaped DAM long arm version. One tiny slot!!

I reckon even if I were a rivet counter buying a virtually factory-std bike, I'd happily accept the little slot in the cover - didn't all Slater Jotas come with it? I simply can't live with a std Lav clutch - AFAIC it makes the whole bike feel heavy and hard to ride.

Also, wondering why you've mounted your choke cable like that??? The std fitment on the clutch lever is very tidy.

Bike looks great. And that car is a ripper!
Click to expand...

The idea of the new clutch plates is because they are the old ones, and as I have to pull the tensioner quite far out, I suspect that the plates and/or the rod must have some good wear, and as i am doing a complete maintenance action, I thought it would be worth to change, any reason for leaving the old ones? but surely I will check your points.

Is not that I am a rivet counter, I try to keep original because the chances of screw up are less... :LOL: I would like to avoid cutting a slot because I never did it before, i also never saw a photo how it should look, AND I don't have any spare cover in case i do a mistake! If I can find a spare cover, surely I would try it.

I mounted the chuck cable like that because I didn't know where it was supposed to be... Do you have a photo where and how should it be mounted? i just thought that at this spot didn't interfere with anything else, and the cable was quite straight, but I am happy to put it in its original place if I know where.

Thanks to everybody for the inputs,

P.S. funny think is that in my bmw, I have exactly the oposite problem, the supplier sent somehow a very very light clutch spring (single dry plate) and the feel is SUPER light, of course, after 1000 km it started to slip... opening a clutch in a bmw is just... a real pain, half bike has to be dismantled :-[

Miguel
 
If the clutch plates measured up ok, leave them.
My 130 000 km SF2 still has its original plates.

Clutch rods is another matter, not a thing one usually measures.

Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
If the clutch plates measured up ok, leave them.
My 130 000 km SF2 still has its original plates.

Clutch rods is another matter, not a thing one usually measures.

Paul
Click to expand...

I think mines must be original ones, they have a sort of grip/relief(?), and therefore I can see they are worn (my impression) because in some sections this relief is almost gone. Any idea what is the thickness of those plates?

Miguel
 
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