How is it to mount extender arm to clutch

michipons said:
I think mines must be original ones, they have a sort of grip/relief(?), and therefore I can see they are worn (my impression) because in some sections this relief is almost gone. Any idea what is the thickness of those plates?

Miguel
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Clutch plates on your SF3 would be 3,6 mm ferodo plates, 1,6mm plain plates.
Springs 48mm, limit 46,5mm

Paul
 
I'll take a pic of my cover and post it, Miguel - seriously, I reckon it was a 15 minute job with a drill and a flat file and easy to get looking really straight and neat - the metal is very soft and easy to file. The slot doesn't have to go to the hole for the bung. I've made fancy alloy pieces for the cable nipple holder and extender in the cases - with a rubber bellows over the cable it looks like the factory did it - but better!!

 

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Piranha Brother 2 said:
I'll take a pic of my cover and post it, Miguel - seriously, I reckon it was a 15 minute job with a drill and a flat file and easy to get looking really straight and neat - the metal is very soft and easy to file. The slot doesn't have to go to the hole for the bung. I've made fancy alloy pieces for the cable nipple holder and extender in the cases - with a rubber bellows over the cable it looks like the factory did it - but better!!
Click to expand...

Looking forward to those photos!

Miguel
 
Miguel,

If you need to screw the adjuster all the way out, your clutch pack has max. thickness, or more.  As the clutch wears, adjusters need to be turned in.  Mechanical advantage at the lower lever is actually at its worst with new clutch plates.

Alternatively, the rods are worn.  First thing to check, as already stated.

piet
 
I just made my first meters with my ex race bike where I put a 1200 engine in, photos will follow.
I have a standard cable cluch and it is working smothly and I am not as strong as Schwarzenenger.
Where is the issue?
My other Laverdas have hydraulic clutch.
Andre
 
There is no issue, we all made this up just for fun. Yours is fine so all others must be  as well.I was snapping 3 and 4 cables a year when I first bought my bike, sure. All it needed was a new cable and nice big smooth routing, but it was still massively heavy and kept snapping cables and making my hand and wrist increadable painfully, my first big multiday ride, 2 weeks and maybe 5 or 6 thousand ks ended with me having numbness and pins and needles in my hand for a solid month. It completely destroyed any pleasure the bike brought me. Yep, all a fantasy. After I fitted the extended lever the cables would last maybe 5 years or more and I could ride and not be cripled and in pain. Yep I like my extended lever a lot and it bloody annoys me constanty hearing Its all bullshit. I don't care if you have this or not, enjoy your good fortune and I will do the same now. 
 
when I pull the clutch, it doesn't hurt, but i can hear my tendons cracking, grcc grcc grcc, my wife says I don't feel it because i am like a kid with a new toy. She can't even move the lever 1 cm
 
No my clutch is not as smoth as a the one of Beta Alp 200 but ok and not too strong. But engine is almost new and lever an cable new, which can make a difference.
Andre
 
You only need to ride a moto with smooth, light, ergonomically sensible controls to realise how nice it can be - as Vince said. I actually think it can border on a safety issue. Battling heavy and overly long throttle pulls, RSI-inducing clutch levers, gear levers with just simply wrong angle-to-peg config? Why the fuk would you put up with that when simple solutions are so easy to build-in??
 
One day a while back I jumped off my Laverda Jota onto my Kawasaki. When I pulled the clutch on the Kwak, my first thought was "Shit. The cable is busted". It wasn't. It's just that the clutch is so much lighter than the Laverda's that it felt like there was nothing there.

I still have the original cable setup on my Jota, so it's pretty heavy. I've been thinking about making a vacuum assist for it but never got around to it.
 
And here's me thinking about changing the extended lever for the original set up on the Motodd. I find the extended lever gives me a sloppy feel on the clutch lever.
When I brought the 1200TS back in 85 it came with the extended lever and a boggy slot cut in the cover that has now cracked to the bung hole.
 
motoddrob said:
And here's me thinking about changing the extended lever for the original set up on the Motodd. I find the extended lever gives me a sloppy feel on the clutch lever.
When I brought the 1200TS back in 85 it came with the extended lever and a boggy slot cut in the cover that has now cracked to the bung hole.
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Sloppy sounds weird, Rob. There's so much spring tension I woulda thought there was plenty left to cope with the shorter travel? I'm thinking a lot of DPOs were lazy and cut the slots with the cover still on the bike!!
 
Before cutting a slot in the cover and fitting an extended arm I would fit a modern clutch lever assembly at the bars.
Improved pivot point and dog-leg lever gives lighter lever pull.
Did this on my bike and I can pull in the lever with one finger.
Standard cable and standard actuating arm.
Ok, doesn't look original but then neither does a hole in the sprocket cover.
 
Grant said:
Before cutting a slot in the cover and fitting an extended arm I would fit a modern clutch lever assembly at the bars.
Improved pivot point and dog-leg lever gives lighter lever pull.
Did this on my bike and I can pull in the lever with one finger.
Standard cable and standard actuating arm.
Ok, doesn't look original but then neither does a hole in the sprocket cover.
Click to expand...

Hole in sprocket cover is original.
:D

Paul
 
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