How to set dellorto 36 carb

ludiluka

Senior member
Hi there

Can somebody please tell me how to set carbs mounted on laverda 750 sf2 i have borrowed clocks bud i dont know what value should i achive.
I read this page http://www.laverdamania.net/carbgb.htm and found some data but i dont know what thay mean

I read on the internet that first you need to set minimum (bolt with spring) end maximum (screw on top of carburator where cabel go thrugh) but i dont know how to mesure that ??

Please help


Regards Luka
 
Hi Luka, I'm not quite sure what the question is but I think what you are asking is what reading you are looking for on a set of vacuum gauges. The value of the reading isn't important, the important thing is the readings should be equal. Before trying to balance the carbs make sure the timing is correct.
Bob
 
Somebody on here will have that info Luka , I'd guess the start point is one and a half turns out to begin with but it might be more on the SF. A good tip when adjusting the mixture screw is to initially make large incremental changes so that you can listen to the engine responding to your adjustment. This will help develop a feel for how much adjustment is necessary. Once you have established where the screw is too rich and too weak you can then start working towards a setting somewhere in between.
 
You can achieve very good settings without vacuum gauges. With the inlet rubbers off, check with finger that both slides disappear at the top of the carb bore at the same time.
Paul
 
Basic setting for mixture screw is 1 1/2 turns. Fine tune by ear when the engine is thoroughly warm. Look for fastest idle and then back off on the idle (slide stop) screw. Ideally, should be done with engine running on one cylinder, difficult to achieve. Settings will always be approximate once there's a bit of wear in the carbs.
Paul
 
Another question where do you have ignition?? as manual says (tdc) or just before tdc (before line on engine hausing and on dinamo pulley comes together) Some people said that i have to set little advance ignition (before thc) because gassoline is diferent like in the good old days :D
 
ludiluka said:
Another question where do you have ignition?? as manual says (tdc) or just before tdc (before line on engine hausing and on dinamo pulley comes together) Some people said that i have to set little advance ignition (before thc) because gassoline is diferent like in the good old days :D

Forget it. Set at the PM mark. That mark may well be wrong anyway and if you're setting timing statically by eye, you'll ,more than likely be a few degrees off one way or the other anyway.
If you want to do it properly, you'll need to check first that the PM mark effectively is TDC; then use a pointer on one of the dynamo cover screws to check either statically, or with a strobe which also allows you to verify the advance unit.
Quite honestly, if you are going to use the bike on the road, riding realistically on the torque rather than looking for revs, you can be approximate with the timing, at least on the lower compression big valve engine. That's not true with small valve, high compression S or SF much more prone to holing pistons.

Ciao
Paul
 
Luka,

First off, check valve clearance and adjust as necessary.  The better the valves are adjusted, the easier it is to get a good result with the carbs.

Time the ignition at full advance, regardless of which ignition system you're using.  Idle timing isn't important at this stage, set the ignition to the 40?BTDC mark "A" with the engine at around 3000rpm.  Check and adjust both cylinders if they are timed individually!  Idle timing should then end up somewhere between 5-10?BTDC.  If the engine has been assembled from bits of unknown origin, it would pay off to check the "A" marking is indeed at 40?BTDC.  If timing at idle ends up close to TDC or later, check the advance unit if you're still using it.  Late idle timing will not allow a steady and reliable idle.

Check and adjust float levels.  Make sure your chokes are closing fully and the choke cables have a bit of play.  Absolutely no point in continuing from here if the choke plungers do not seat properly. 

Begin with the idle mixture screws 1.5 turns from fully home.  Connect your vacuum guages and start the engine.  Adjust the throttle stop screws (those with the springs) so you have an equal reading on both guages with the idle speed around 1000-1200rpm.  Now slowly adjust first one, then the other mixture screw so that idle speed rises to the fastest speed, disregarding the vacuum guages!  Once you've found that, back off the throttle stop screws to an idle speed 800-1000rpm, checking the vacuum guages show equal for both carbs again.  Slowly open the throttle to around 3000rpm and check the guages for equal readings.  This is achieved at the cable adjusters on the carb tops.  Check also at higher revs.  If vacuum differs dramatically between cylinders at different throttle openings, most likely the carb bodies and/or slides are unevenly/severely worn.

Once you have that, re-check vacuum readings at idle and watch the guages as you blip the throttle.  Ideally, both guages will rise and fall in parallel.  Tighten up the cable adjusters with the lock nut checking the cable outers still have a little play, fit the cable dust covers, set the throttle cable clearance at the twistgrip to your liking if using a cable splitter, but always retain a little slack in the cables, and re-check the guages.  If all is well, disconnect them and re-fit the hose between the vacuum take-offs.  Replace tank and seat and go for a ride. :D

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
If all is well, disconnect them and re-fit the hose between the vacuum take-offs.  Replace tank and seat and go for a ride. :D

piet

Hi Piet
Is there a big difference in using the vacum take-off on the inlet stubs, rather than using the vacum take-off on the carb body?
What is best practise for Laverdas?

The Green book describes using vacum take-off on inlet stubs, but other tuning guides regarding Dell Ortos describes using vacum take-offs on carb body.

Regards
Haakon
 
Oki doki
Have a CarbTune unit, but the tubes doesn't fit the takeoffs on the inlet tube. Have to do something about that, easier to fit on inlet tubes than using plastic adapters on the carb body.
 
Haakon,

No difference at all.  All you're doing is determining vacuum, should be the same at all points within the system providing there are no obstructions.

piet
 
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