idle mixture screws PHF32

littletriple said:
... what about the other little port just under the engine side of the slide which isn't mentioned in the description but seems to be coloured blue?  I actually thought that was the idle port & the one closer the engine (green) was "progression" to assist transition to the next throttle stage. Still confused.. 
Click to expand...

Hopefully this will help you in your confusion .. ;).  Critical bit lightly tinted in red.

P.s  Yep, you were right to correct yourself: it's really the progression port, t'other one being the idle.  But it functions at idle too - see text.

 

Attachments

  • Progression.jpg
    Progression.jpg
    107.4 KB · Views: 39
Bloody hell Vince, I race against those things and they fly. Has to be something very fundamental happening with yours. Just when it should take off it goes flat. Have you any mates with similar bikes so you can swap things around, exhausts etc. It would have to be a tooth out to cause it so go so poorly. Oops, whong thread for Pantahs, sorry.
 
It's a weird one that's for sure, Its a TL but the engine is supposed to be the same as an SL. Its balance tube between headers is gutted and its running Malossi see through air filters, so I need to find a cause for this lack of top end power. Its been like that for years, the old owner would say the same. Don't bother reving it over 5.
 
I have understood that the "mixture screw" is amount screw, but there is also air passing under the slide. The slide is not completely closed on idle but there is no pickup on main circuit. So that's second reason why the amount screw also alters the mixture. (First one is the square root law which means a simple jet system does not give constant mixture ratio on different pressure/vacuum values, otherwise it would be possible to make a constant mixture carburettor with just one jet...). That's why it is called idle mixture screw.

Just saying. Let's not start any shit war.

 
Ventodue said:
Err ...?  No it doesn't.  That's why the section is headed up, "Idle setting with a mixture-adjusting screw"!
Click to expand...

OK Craig, no need to shout.  :D
I re-read the chapter and you are correct. It's me who is guilty of misinterpretation.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure that the mixture still gets richer as you wind the screw out, because of the change in combustion flame colour. Don't ask me why. That's just what happens.

 
Dellortoman said:
OK Craig, no need to shout.  :D
I re-read the chapter and you are correct. It's me who is guilty of misinterpretation.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure that the mixture still gets richer as you wind the screw out, because of the change in combustion flame colour. Don't ask me why. That's just what happens.
Click to expand...
In't it a simple case of adding more fuel to the air stream coming under the slide?? The pilot sys probably requires air to enter in order for flow to be enabled. otherwise the vacuum is trying to suck fuel out of blank hole full of fuel. That's just me theorising, but screwing the mixture screw out definitely makes the charge entering the manifold richer - simple cut and shut case.
 
shut the fornication up the lot of you
in for weaker
out for richer
wheels are round and support things on axles with very low rolling resistance, enabling much more weight to be moved than is possible to manually elevate and re-locate
CLEM
 
Its a waste of time looking for more power as the forks are so shit it bounces all over the place now.The forks are in bits now.
 
Shaez, Vince! You sure someone didn't sell you a CB175 Honda with a Pantah 600 badge on it! Forked forks, no power ... has it got drum brakes as well?!  :-*
 
Cosi said:
My 600 pantah ate 750s laverda s for breakfast, won't re over 5?grand Vince , you got major problems
Click to expand...
One of the fastest classic racing blokes here was put on a 600 Pantah at Karlskoga last year. Try as he might, outbraked himself past me more than once, he couldn?t make it stick. He told me he was stunned how well my bike went. So not all SFs get eaten for breakfast old mate :-)
 
I am sending my fork lowers to a place in Melbourne that does hard anodising, that's hopefully going to reduce there stickson to where the forks absorb the impact of anything bigger than a matchstick. It kicks violently off matchstick and bigger objects and smashes the crap out of me.Been trying to fix this and talked to the previous owner about this for more than 10 years and FUCK IT it's being fixed.
 
I might have overstated the nothing over 5 grand, all I have to compare to is a Redex Laverda that mostly goes very very fast over 5 grand. I think the issue with the Pantah is you need to ride it like a 2 stroke but its suspension is so bad I just cannot commit to cornering hard and try to make up for that expecting it to accelerate out of bends like my Laverda and it might if I could push it harder in bends to start with. Anyway, I used paint stripper to get the black paint off the fork lowers today as the anandisers need clean alloy so at least its moving to a hopeful fix.
 
Vince said:
I am sending my fork lowers to a place in Melbourne that does hard anodising, that's hopefully going to reduce there stickson
Click to expand...

Yes ...... reducing stiction will fix ALL your problems. Don't worry about springs or valving or any of that ....... concentrate on one of the least important aspects that is normally something you fix last.

Unless of course your stiction is so bad that the fork legs don't move ....... in which case anodizing ain't gonna fix that problem.
 
Are you referring to the brand new non-rusty fork legs fitted, or the Eldbrock 0.95 springs or the race tech emulators with the blue springs and the least preload at 2 turns its set at with for high-speed compression damping the 2 low-speed compression damping holes. Or the trip back to the local Race tech shop to find out why the $900 I had spent still resulted in zero change to the 80mm of travel it has,and where the other 40mm of travel has gone and how the Race Teck bloke showed me how a tiny amount of lateral force would virtually stop the fork from moving and how he had never converted these old forks to bushes but THAT was the fix and for maybe another $1000 he might learn how to do that. The US Race Tech bunch do hard Anandising as the cheap fix for sticksion. So YEP  I have tried one or two fixes before on these forks.All of these settings work great on my Laverda forks, but not of this bike. So that's whats happening now. I have run out of other ideas as to why these forks are so bad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top