Ignitech fitting 120 degree

Rob said:
Chaps

I know quite a few of you have used the Ignitech TCIP4 'Sparker' unit.  A couple of questions relating to 120 degree motors -

1.  It appears that the TCIP4 is only configured for two trigger inputs.  So what do you do with the redundant third trigger input (I'm using a Sasche trigger board for 120 degree applications).  Or do you just use the one trigger input?
2.  Does the Ignitech work out for itself what it needs to do...what map or configuration is required?
3.  What is the Ignitech Laverda 120 degree map expecting in terms of input(s)

So in summary, what is needed to get an Ignitech TCIP4 working on a 120 degree engine in terms of input and config?!

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi Rob
Know you posted this a few weeks ago and the thread got high jacked by talk of dodgy Dells, so am assuming you have sorted it out, if you havent then today I decided to install an Ignitech on my Corsa and use the original pickups.
Got sick and tired of the thing cold fouling plugs and only starting when it felt like when all I need do is look at the Cico and it starts... so it was Corsa day today..
Fired up first stab and no cold fouling got to be a bonus.
Admittantly I also fitted new pickups and also Dyna Mini coils and a set of Nology Silver plugs.

I have uploaded the map which ended up with after a bit of fine tuning here..
https://app.box.com/files/0/f/0/1/f_39326245933

.. the engine runs real strong faark had to remember double demerit weekend...

Should have done it years ago so now have installed two onto 120's and one to an early triple.

Cheers
Brett

 
Hi Brett

Thanks - all good after Red & Max provided extraordinary service by shipping a replacement trigger board out next day (Oz to UK!!)  to replace the faulty Sasche item.  Keith leapt into action on his return from hols & TT1 now consistently firing on all 3 cylinders .... in the right order at the right time!  ;)  To be fair, Marco was happy to replace his Sasche board - was temporarily out of stock.

Reason for replacing triggers was the old items were suffering usual problem of brittle insulation - remarkably the thing ran despite no insulation for a couple of inches where the wires run into the 6 way connector at the back of the motor.

Can't see your map - box says the file has either been deleted or isn't accessible?
 
Hi Rob

Good to hear that you got sorted yes Red's boards is the best option and that is what I have on the RGS...........mainly did the Corsa the way i did for the purpose of the exercise oh and meant could still use the original loom to the coils ? the tacho is driving from the same original wiring.. bloody actually amazing how close to accurate it runs as with the Witt was very vague.

RGS I run the tacho from terminal 15 off the box it also works and is probably the better option as you can compensate in the programme for correction. Easy enough to do on the Corsa if need be.

As for the wires on the pickups yes will had I not had the set of good knick original ones on hand and some new wiring to future proof then would have gone the complete set up. Still if the originals lasted 31 years and these even get half that time then I reckon that will be it for me... as by that time reckon the Corsa will have earned its place in a bed next to me.  :D and can be a place to store the helmet when its hung up.

Sorry about the box thingy user error ( my end me thinks ) take 2. But if you now one of Red's boards wont be of use to you but maybe someone else along the way if they need to this road.

https://app.box.com/s/mrdwa9iygqiz0e84ems1i3tfex50dktw

 
Brett said:
Know you posted this a few weeks ago and the thread got high jacked by talk of dodgy Dells, so am assuming you have sorted it out, if you havent then today I decided to install an Ignitech on my Corsa and use the original pickups.
Cheers
Brett
Click to expand...

did you get a new box from Ignitech or are you using one of our boxes ?
reason I ask is that our Ignitech boxes are configured to suit a Hall Effect trigger
 
redax5 said:
did you get a new box from Ignitech or are you using one of our boxes ?
reason I ask is that our Ignitech boxes are configured to suit a Hall Effect trigger
Click to expand...
I sourced a Hall Effect one as figured they are also good for optical so if the standard pickups didnt work or lunch it I can use the optical pickups from the IIS ignition.. have that much ignition junk figured would try to recycle some of it............hate binning anything....hence putting up with the old series one Witt for near on 25 years on the Corsa. The original boxes are still mounted in place... ( boat anchor I guess but well .............)


 
Brett said:
I sourced a Hall Effect one as figured they are also good for optical so if the standard pickups didnt work or lunch it I can use the optical pickups from the IIS ignition.. have that much ignition junk figured would try to recycle some of it............hate binning anything....hence putting up with the old series one Witt for near on 25 years on the Corsa. The original boxes are still mounted in place... ( boat anchor I guess but well .............)
Click to expand...

Optical triggers and Hall Effect triggers send out the same wave form signal so both will work with the custom Ignitech set up.
Standard Ignitech box will only work with the inductive type triggers.

am the same, never throw out anything, have crates of busted engine parts here all waiting to be turned into a Laverda sculpture one day
 
Guys

I am looking at upgrading my 180 series1 Bosch  ignition/alternator

I was looking at this but cant find anywhere to purchase the product

https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/ZDG3/LAVERDA/1000_180_III/zdg_laverda180_III_en.htm

i can only see ingnition kit for series2 180 Laverda's
https://www.elektronik-sachse.de/shopsystem/index.php?cat=c18_Laverda-Laverda.html&XTCsid=53e2a04f8162fc66a07496a6b76e357a

Can anybody point me in the rght direction of ordering this or similar kit ??

 
Keith Nairn should be able to sort you out in the UK . Phone 01505 325254.... and leave a message if he doesn't get to the phone. Saves him getting grumpy  :D  :D
 
Paul LeClair said:
then, once the computer reboots, and making absolutely sure you have power and ground to your Ignitech box either from the bike or a direct battery feed with jumper wire, then plug your Ignitech into the RS 232 convertor/USB cable, plug the USB into the computer, and initialize the Ignitech software........

far, far from "Plug and Play, but if I could figure it out, you can as well, bloody hell.....

Now that I have it figured out for Windows 7, I am going to give another go at getting it working under Windows 10, we'll see.......

Paul LeClair
Click to expand...

Hi all together,

I was trying to get connection to the Ignitech and wondered if mine was broken, as the Software always said "No PC connected". I assume from the above, the ignitech box needs to have power supplied to access it - right?

that means I need to do the wiring first so it has power and then connect it to the Laptop - right?

thanks
 
Laverdalothar said:
Hi all together,

I was trying to get connection to the Ignitech and wondered if mine was broken, as the Software always said "No PC connected". I assume from the above, the ignitech box needs to have power supplied to access it - right?

that means I need to do the wiring first so it has power and then connect it to the Laptop - right?

thanks
Click to expand...

Don't recall the serial connector from the 'pooter having a 12V power supply... :D

piet
 
that's right... just thought that some boards do work with just the Serial or USB connector connected, and as you can even load your cellphone over the USB port, wondered if the Ignitech would maybe work just with that connection, too... Shall make me a 12 Volt connector for programming it at the desk then... or... simply wait until I get the wiring finished? Can't use it else anyway, eh....  ::)
 
Ignitech box needs to be powered up to connect to the computer. You can do that on the bench by hooking it up to a 12V battery. Positive to pin 13, negative to pin 14. You will then be able to play around inside it and see how the software works. You can look at whatever program is installed and re-program it if you want to.

However, it needs to be connected to the bike to make the engine go  :D
 
Dellortoman said:
However, it needs to be connected to the bike to make the engine go  :D
Click to expand...

They really should bring it up to date with wireles or bluetooth sparkplug connectors...  ::) shouldn't be a problem to implement a server with a wireless switch, firewall and antyspam, GPS and laptimer etc. etc. etc so you can collect Pokemons on the fly... OK - the box gets 10 times bigger then, but hey - main thing is it keeps up with the modern world...

:D

 
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