Ignitech Questions

I recall Red mentioned something along these lines, but also said it was way too early to enquire yet.
 
our new Series 1 board should be undergoing testing this week, Hall Effect system, similar to Volker's
this will get the Redax Series 1 systems back on the market
if it works as well as we hope we will probably go and make Hall Effect boards for the Series 2, 120 engines, 500 and 750 but have no intention of making the systems for Ducati, etc

will be asking the question this week about what is going to happen with Volker's product line, am hopeful that the boxes may be available at least
the rest I can make myself or have made by a 3rd party

Blab, I have a Sachse Series 2 system in stock for your engine, already put aside
 
@Paul, all the Laverdas are individuals, right? The settings above/below are the ones I?m using, and they work for me. The settings on my friends ?ltmt7? bike are totally different.
The curve map itself is 3d, but in practice you won?t be using all of it, only something like shown here:
tcip4_4.png
 
New box from Ignitech arrived - almost plug and play. The programming was set up for a "Laverda 3x120" even though I had specified a 180. I changed over to Classic 1 lobe and reviewed the set up - all looked good and ignition was immediate...no choke so I may be rich...ok based on the fumes I'm rich. I altered the curve and could hear improvement.
It appears that the box I received could be used on a 120... would that be right? When that selection was used it was looking for 3 pickups and went to 2 based on the classic 1 lobe option.
Now I need to get that clutch free...again.
The previous box I received from Wolfgang worked  too, but I had some bad programming parameters set so after I corrected them it fired up immediately as well...maybe ran better I'll have to use a similar curve on the new box...
 
The TCIP4 can be used on almost any engine configuration by changing the programming.  By default they come only as 2-channel, ok for use on 180 but for a 120 you need 3 channel, so must order the 4-channel option.  It is minimal extra cost. 
You will need to establish your base advance properly if you want the numbers you program to correspond to actual advance delivered.
 
Base advance is a measure of where the pickups are in relation to TDC. You can't do a reliable static measurement with electronic ignition as you can with points, So you need to use a strobe and a degree wheel (properly zeroed-in to TDC. Plenty of info on that elsewhere if you have any doubts). 

The way I do it is set the Ignitech to zero advance (just a flat zero line on the curve chart). I'll explain why a bit later. Start the engine and use a strobe to measure where it's firing on the degree wheel. Let's say it's 8° BTDC. That's the "base advance" figure that you put into the Ignitech software. The ignitech program then knows where its starting point is and you can then put in your advance curve. This is one of the clever features of the Ignitech system. All the other ignition systems I've set up have an assumed starting point (say 10° BTDC) and you have to get the pickup/rotor relationship excatly right to actually get the advance that it says on your chosen curve, which can sometimes be a pain in the arse. With the ignitech, you don't have to be so accurate with the mechanical setup because you can correct for it in the program.

The reason I put in a flat zero advance curve to start with is that it allows you to give the bike a few revs without any advance kicking in and upsetting the base reading. If you only let the bike idle, the advance shown by the strobe flash on the degree wheel may appear to jump around a bit because of fluctuations in idle speed. It'll smooth out as you rev it and you'll get a steadier reading. At least that's what I've found with my ancient strobe light. No need to rev it off the dial, just enough to get a smooth engine speed.

Note that the Ignitech software doesn't accept a negative base advance, so you can't have the the pickup triggering after TDC. The first Ignitech I ever fitted was on a Ducati, and the pickups were firing a couple of degrees after TDC. I was still trying to get my head around the base advance concept, and it took me a while to work out that I had to rotate the pickup plate to get it triggering a few degrees BTDC.

Cam
 
Ok I got the clutch free and got about 1/4 mile before the bike shut down...kind feels like a fuel problem so I opened the cap to release any pressure...ok... fuel in the lines...I had a similar problem using the older box so wiring check is next....
One note the new box came with a harness that looks like it should have plugged into existing connectors...well they're not existing any more... ??? but for future buyers it looks like it would be close to plug and play for the connections.
 
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