Ignitech TCIP4 sudden failure

About 5 years ago my Ignitech_v88 failed. I did an autopsy on it to discover the circuit board had corrosion on the pins and board trace around an integrated circuit. (see pic). I sent photos and description to Ignitech but didn't receive any reply. I didn't subject it to any harsh conditions and at the time I thought it was the result of a poor manufacturing process.PXL_20210805_030339134._exported_1065_1628132939434.jpgPXL_20210805_030347678._exported_1233_1628132896570.jpg
 
Doesn’t need to be particularly harsh conditions, just the normal heating and cooling cycles can create enough condensation to cause damage over time. Although I’m a bit surprised the manufacturer hasn’t sealed or even encapsulated the board for waterproofing and to prevent copying (or repair…)
 
Proper conformal coating ( i used clear and red CRC conformals in the early days ), surprised to see many through hole components on the above pcb, cut pigtails being sharp reduce the conformal coating thickness at any sharp angles ( flow away during curing ).

The pcb appears to have a basic conformal coating, though when thin and age deteriorated moister for one can penetrate the edges and lift the conformal coating due to galvanic reaction(s).

Ignoring customer feedback never augers well for any manufacturer, or parts supplier. Mentioned prior i believe, perhaps.. bought a Mazda V6 JDM ( Japanese Domestic Market ) HD series motor for a very good price, shipped. 12 Days i could not get the "pulled motor" from working vehicle to start ( coughing yes, run no ). Quickly worked out the ignition timing was out by around 40 degress. Contact wrecking house in Victoria ( Australia ), no reply... several contacts, no reply. Finally i clocked the root cause, gilmer sprocket on the crankshaft was on backwards, which is also shown backwards in the genuine factory manual ( tah to Laverda factory manual and Ceriani valving shown incorrect order, was alerted ), few other issues ( i nuked the "igniter" ) corrected the quad camshaft to crank interval.

Runs a lovely motor to this day. What were the blokes in Victoria hoping to achieve by ignoring me?? Never know, suspect the motor had been installed, undiagnosed problem, put motor back onto ebay and let the mug buyer contend with the issue...did let them know via email i had sorted the problem, just to rub it in. Was a difficult issue to resolve as i had assumed it had run prior in Japan. Flexibility in thought process needs to be close by at times. j
 
Problem found. Ignitech perfect. Issue was Shell V-Power racing in Germany (100RON) or AGIP equivalent, EU 98 when those not available is very different to NPD 100Plus (101RON, no ethanol) in NZ, e.g. EU fuels required 21 degree advance at 3000rpm to avoid detonation and now found that NZ fuel requires 26 degree at 3000rpm to avoid carbon fouling. At 21 degree on NZ fuel this was so bad that plugs fouled within 25km from first install. I am surprised at the difference between what initially seems similar fuels and had never previously experienced plugs that fouled (dry, sooty carbon) so fast or to such a degree that the ignition system wouldn’t generate any sparks. Spare Ignitech purchased in any case. Fell into trap that as Ignitech had once failed (according to Ignitech an internal fault, repaired foc, great service) with no sparks at plugs and without warning in Germany after about 2000km trouble free riding that it was likely the same cause this time. Still I will carry a spare Ignitech, plugs, tools…..
 
What's your habit with choke use? Mine used to foul plugs if I didn't turn the choke off on immediate start. That was back in the day, not now. It's odd, it's so specific the tune required.
 
Choke off within 10-20s of start. Soot accumulated with mileage. Bike would run well for further as the advance curve was steepened reaching full advance earlier with similar start point. Most of the test loop was open road riding so lots of high gear, mid range. Using the 21 degree curve as used in Germany >5000km before a scheduled service, here in NZ 24-27km. Last run on the 26 degree curve, 90km, great looking plugs, no misfires, idles, starts easily. Just like it used to in Europe. No doubt still some tuning to be done and then experimenting with lower octane fuels. Any way I am most keen to stress that the fault was not related to Ignitech which is I believe a great product, especially when having to negotiate change in tune, fuel, riding environment, etc.. in my view programmable is the way forward if we are to keep these machines on the road
 
I actually have my hand on the choke lever as I push the starter button, then the split second she catches I close it fully and hold the revs. 10 to 20 seconds of choke would immediatly foul my plugs.
 
Perry said:
I actually have my hand on the choke lever as I push the starter button, then the split second she catches I close it fully and hold the revs. 10 to 20 seconds of choke would immediatly foul my plugs.
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Too rich on the idle jets.
Modern fuel syndrome.
Paul
 
Gidday fella, the 100+ from NPD isn’t available up north, so can’t really comment, but this advance differential sounds interesting.
Although I burnt a fair bit recently in a non-Lav race bike and the only effect was phychological 😉
 
Andy said:
Gidday fella, the 100+ from NPD isn’t available up north, so can’t really comment, but this advance differential sounds interesting.
Although I burnt a fair bit recently in a non-Lav race bike and the only effect was phychological 😉
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Say what old chap?

Are you saying the fuel on the north island is from a different source to that on the south island?
 
chrisk said:
Say what old chap?

Are you saying the fuel on the north island is from a different source to that on the south island?
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I don’t really know. NZ doesn’t have a refinery so everything is imported. There’s a handful of companies so perhaps NPD get the 100+ as a selling point.
 
I'm told 98 loses a large degree of its octane rating in a very short time anyway! During the high country ride a number of fuel stops saw no 98 or 95 left in tanks, so I ran 91 in the 10.25:1 SFQ with no noticeable ill effects. I'm more worried about old stale fuel.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
I'm told 98 loses a large degree of its octane rating in a very short time anyway! During the high country ride a number of fuel stops saw no 98 or 95 left in tanks, so I ran 91 in the 10.25:1 SFQ with no noticeable ill effects. I'm more worried about old stale fuel.
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How your engine is timed? Ignition, what camshafts and what timing for them? How long it has run well with this setup and 91 RON, say kilometres?
 
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