Ignition current draw?

RUSS

Full member
Hi all,
Does anyone out there know the total current draw for TEC coils and Sachse ignition? I am interested in how long a total loss system would run on a given battery size.
Thanks for your help again.
RUSS
 
Less than 1 amp for my single Dyna coil and Ignitech ignition on the SFC.
The fancy new Li-Po batteries are the dogs bollocks for ultimate light weight.  I set up the SFC ignition before they were readily available and I conservatively used a 4.2Ah $30 SLA battery from Jaycar, which had plenty of capacity and weighed 1.3kg.  Li-Po stuff is probably 1/4 the weight but 5-10 times the price.  Like all things, the laws of decreasing returns apply. :-)
Cheers
Steve B
 
Thanks Steve,
I am thinking of a dedicated track bike if I can find a suitable bike to work on as I don't want to strip my pretty 3CL (or damage it) these days. I don't really get inspired by all the Japanese bikes (other than chasing them).
 
RUSS said:
Hi all,
Does anyone out there know the total current draw for TEC coils and Sachse ignition? I am interested in how long a total loss system would run on a given battery size.
Thanks for your help again.
RUSS

I run total loss on the track with a twin and single ND coil and Ignitech.  On a small 10 amp hour battery, it'll start the motor a few times and run for 2  maybe 3 sessions (if I throw in a couple of push starts) at 15 minutes each. Higher revs has a profound effect on battery consumption as does Starter useage.

Although I carry a spare battery, I never swap it over, I prefer to plug in an optimate which in turn plugs into an Inverter (12v - 240v), which plugs  into the Aux power supply on the jeep. Takes a few seconds and I connect that after each 15 min session, just leaving the 12v quick connector hanging out the tailgate.

To improve matters, a slightly more powerful battery charger would help, but as long I remember to connect it, it recovers without fail.

Cheers Rob
 
what are you thinking of Russ.?
Triple based. ?
Standard frame or aftermarket.?
Depends on what class you wish to run.

You may be better off with a RGS engine, seems they have a stronger gearbox looking at the problems Rob has had with 4th gear.
Possibly be able to fix you up with something next year.

Tchau
Red
 
Thanks everyone!
Red, The situation is that I would like a durable stripped down bike for track days with the option to race. If I found a suitable period 5 great, but if it was a later one that would be great too. Due to my commitments I can't see the opportunity for me to travel off the island regularly enough to compete in any series other than to come over for the occasional event. I really want to ride Phillip Island some time too. The priority is durability so that I can continue to enjoy the whole Laverda experience into the future and basically stick with what I know and love.  It will need to be a work in progress and I had discounted the possibility of aftermarket frames due to availability and cost.  Certainly I would like more grip, better suspension, more braking power and engine power but the point is to get out there and not damage the pretty one with all it's re-chromed and painted bits.
If you say the RGS is stronger then that sounds like the go.
 
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