Ignition Pick Up Wiring Heatshrinking

[2Types]

I have wiring not quite as bad as this photo and need to heatshrink them.

How do I remove the wires from the connector so I can slide the heatshrink over the individual wires please.

 

[1200ts]

These connectors use a special tool that goes around the outside of each male pin or female socket and pushes down the tab that locks it in. So basically a small piece of metal tubing. You can also sometimes use a very, very small screwdriver to push down the locking tab.

It is probably less work to replace each bad wire than to heat shrink.

Here is an example of what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/XLWJBES-2024-Upgraded-Terminal-Removal/dp/B0CSPPC82N/ref=sr_1_15?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.-5iTZ0eny_JQA6L5grYYXDMnfRmoe6OcNUHuI1FdWxzF8pd6He599ElZzBtNq-BKqG_zrNyczkenAZAln4dQZTl-NtzwqDxVVYbZ8Fq024IF23REXJ9ywcIB_IoXES5VtVYrQJZ0gqtdLed4lxstkb09vSbLkon4FKMiIxpFV63YuwKdwmuONSA5LfKUnC4Axd5eFi48Z_q6auZvnTkLAPKn-eh_CbeYnWJIuZpYwavNST-_aTCJxz1ZsuB96fGXghHFCkK6USxYdR8VENrA-7I_XsvnFUAPDxGovDFwOO0.NHYak7oHpNyEbNWiyp1kZ_e6WxthKn6TOO_wi3HejM8&dib_tag=se&keywords=pin%2Bconnector%2Bremoval%2Btool&qid=1724964561&sr=8-15&th=1

 

[piranha-bro2]

I bought one of these - not as universal as a big kit, and probably overbuilt for what we generally need. But nice metal construction wth plunger. Of course for female connectors it is too small in dia.

Pin Extractor Tool | Jaycar Australia

Take the frustration out of removing Molex connector pins with these time save tools.

www.jaycar.com.au

 

[2Types]

These connectors use a special tool that goes around the outside of each male pin or female socket and pushes down the tab that locks it in. So basically a small piece of metal tubing. You can also sometimes use a very, very small screwdriver to push down the locking tab.

It is probably less work to replace each bad wire than to heat shrink.

Here is an example of what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/XLWJBES-2024-Upgraded-Terminal-Removal/dp/B0CSPPC82N/ref=sr_1_15?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.-5iTZ0eny_JQA6L5grYYXDMnfRmoe6OcNUHuI1FdWxzF8pd6He599ElZzBtNq-BKqG_zrNyczkenAZAln4dQZTl-NtzwqDxVVYbZ8Fq024IF23REXJ9ywcIB_IoXES5VtVYrQJZ0gqtdLed4lxstkb09vSbLkon4FKMiIxpFV63YuwKdwmuONSA5LfKUnC4Axd5eFi48Z_q6auZvnTkLAPKn-eh_CbeYnWJIuZpYwavNST-_aTCJxz1ZsuB96fGXghHFCkK6USxYdR8VENrA-7I_XsvnFUAPDxGovDFwOO0.NHYak7oHpNyEbNWiyp1kZ_e6WxthKn6TOO_wi3HejM8&dib_tag=se&keywords=pin%2Bconnector%2Bremoval%2Btool&qid=1724964561&sr=8-15&th=1

Thanks have ordered a set so fingers crossed will have it running clean by Sunday.
Will report on how it goes.

 

[sfcpiet]

The other ends of those cables are probably just as bad, not to mention the bit inside the sheathing. Best to replace the entire cables.

piet

 

[2Types]

The other ends of those cables are probably just as bad, not to mention the bit inside the sheathing. Best to replace the entire cables.

piet

I have pulled the sheathing back and it all looks surprisingly good. I have a spare set that came off my 1000SFC when Ged fitted a Sachs so I am going to give it a try and if not successful will buy a Sachs.

 

[2Types]

These connectors use a special tool that goes around the outside of each male pin or female socket and pushes down the tab that locks it in. So basically a small piece of metal tubing. You can also sometimes use a very, very small screwdriver to push down the locking tab.

It is probably less work to replace each bad wire than to heat shrink.

Here is an example of what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/XLWJBES-2024-Upgraded-Terminal-Removal/dp/B0CSPPC82N/ref=sr_1_15?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.-5iTZ0eny_JQA6L5grYYXDMnfRmoe6OcNUHuI1FdWxzF8pd6He599ElZzBtNq-BKqG_zrNyczkenAZAln4dQZTl-NtzwqDxVVYbZ8Fq024IF23REXJ9ywcIB_IoXES5VtVYrQJZ0gqtdLed4lxstkb09vSbLkon4FKMiIxpFV63YuwKdwmuONSA5LfKUnC4Axd5eFi48Z_q6auZvnTkLAPKn-eh_CbeYnWJIuZpYwavNST-_aTCJxz1ZsuB96fGXghHFCkK6USxYdR8VENrA-7I_XsvnFUAPDxGovDFwOO0.NHYak7oHpNyEbNWiyp1kZ_e6WxthKn6TOO_wi3HejM8&dib_tag=se&keywords=pin%2Bconnector%2Bremoval%2Btool&qid=1724964561&sr=8-15&th=1

So I have bought a set as per photo and it slides down over the female pin bit still can't push the pin out. I think there might be a tab down there which it feels like it is going over but maybe the ID is a fraction too big. Does anyone have a photo of the female removed so I can see what I have to release.

Any other tips appreciated.

 

[iis_iis]

At times the extraction tool is a tight fit in the plastic housing making removal of the actual pin or socket difficult, also push the pin or socket towards the mating side to take the pressure or "lock" off the engaging tab ( which your correct to state is holding the pin or socket in place ) as you engage the removal tool, ie small screw driver at the wire end pushing against the pin or socket as you engage the removal tool.

Need the best crimping tool should you decide to replace the pin or socket. HTH j

 

[2Types]

I have pulled the sheathing back and it all looks surprisingly good. I have a spare set that came off my 1000SFC when Ged fitted a Sachs so I am going to give it a try and if not successful will buy a Sachs.

Have managed to get the pins out by driving them through the connector first with a small screwdrive and a tack hammer and then pull the back after.

However on closer inspection of the whole cable it will need to all be replaced but at least I have the connector.

 

[Tree Hugger]

I’ve used a flat heavy duty staple with one end straightened to release the locking flap.

 

[Rokka]

Mine were like that through the whole length of them. I had had lots of problems with it running on one or two cylinders, refusing to start etc. That wiring wasn't the only problem but I was sure it could be a contributary factor. I bought narrow heatshrink I think from Hilltop products, for each wire, a larger one to put them all through and finaly a completely new waterproof 6 way connector. This meant I had to cut off and rewire the one on the wiring loom as well but putting new connectors on was no where near as difficult as getting the old ones off without ruining the pins but I did already have a decent crimping tool and a lighter fuel type soldering iron.