Impact wrench recommendations for primary drive nut

[piranha-bro2]

Sometimes big rattle can't undo Ducati, have broken a 1/2 breaker bar, 3 foot long with a fork tube over the end of it. That one was tight.

Cazzo!! What do you lock the wheel with to do that?!

 

[piranha-bro2]

Quentin, the 750 locking tool fits over the oil pump drive gear.

A couple of years ago I bought an AOK pneumatic rattle gun, made in Taiwan, but says designed in Oz on the label. Plenty strong enough to loosen the Jesus nut, even manages to un-do drive shaft nuts on the Skoda (tightened to 200+ Nm!) at 6.5 bar air line pressure. Reckon it'll manage a little more if I up the pressure a bit. Anyway, well pleased with the gun, and very affordable. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/263929676355

piet

They look like they'll do the trick nicely, Piet. Price is right.

 

[rowdypat]

I can lend you mine Quentin if you like.
1/2” drive

 

[chrisk]

Oil daily.... that’s overkill. I use mine about once every two years, and oil it about every four years.

 

[piranha-bro2]

Grazie tanto, Pat. I'll see if the budget stretches to the one that Piet recommended. Might make sense to have one in the armoury. if I get stuck, it's nice to know I can call on you ... once they increase our radium limits from 10k!

 

[piranha-bro2]

Jesus nut locking tool

A mate has just had a hydro cutter installed in the workshop I'm talking to him about makeing up a Jesus nut locking tool, very similar to the factory one on page 73 the old green book. I there if there is enough interest at a resinable cost I may be able to get him to do a run of them. please...

www.laverdaforum.com

this thread is a 'must read'

Great thread, but doesn't offer any suggestions for a twin, where the oil pump drive gear prevents the use of holes (which aren't there anyway) in the primary sprocket. As Piet mentioned the factory 750 tool holds the oil pump gear - a far more difficult home-built tool option that those shown for triples. I will investigate further with the SF and see if the might be room for holes - the idea of bolting a plate to the crankcase is a good one - could also use sheet and exploit most of the holes fwd of the clutch basket.

I decided to buy one of Piet's recommended rattle guns anyway. But I do like the fork leg on the socket bar system. I've never used a torqu wrench to measure the force I put into it, but have never had one loosen. TIGHT is the word I'd use. But just don't want to reuse the steel block method evert again.

 

[IAG]

Find the Aussie equivalent of this: https://www.harborfreight.com/merch...d-impact-wrench-with-rocker-switch-61173.html

 

[BlackJota]

Biggest issue in the workshop is single sided Ducati rear wheel nuts, 55mm. MV Agusta the same, but left hand thread. I have 3 rattle guns at work, all snap on. Big 1/2 inch, stubby 1/2 inch, 3/8ths. Sometimes big rattle can't undo Ducati, have broken a 1/2 breaker bar, 3 foot long with a fork tube over the end of it. That one was tight. I never use them to do up the wheel nuts, only to loosen. My rattle gun at home is a no name $100 cheapie, works really well on lav Jesus nuts.

I made up this a few years back to undo my MV rear axle nut. It's a 55mm knocking spanner from "Total Tools"
Fits perfectly, It was not expensive at all.

Cut off the knocking end and cut and re-welded the straight knocker shaft to an angle so the pipe clears the rear tyre,

Pipe squashed over the spanner shaft tightly.

Simply a case of fitting the spanner at a 45 deg angle, sit on the bike with rear brake on and a piece of timber
in front of the rear wheel to help stop it turning and just pull up on the handle. It's 750mm long and the nut comes free easily. Then
torque to 230nm to re-fit.

Hope this helps.