Improvement 1000 SFC rear brake?

Laverdalothar

Laverdalothar

Hero member
Location
Germany
Has anyone achieved an improvement of the rear brake of the 1000 SFC, especially with the GSX-R-Rear brake/Rear wheel/brake disk?

Seems the original master does not really work well with the GSX-R-Caliper (nor with the original Brembo P08) and I was wondering if there is a good replacement that fits straight on the bike, please?

thanks in advance
 
there is, its a Kawasaki item, ask Keith Nairn, the adapter required could be made by a ten year old, at least if its the same as an RGS (not sure on that one), Owen Stafford has one on his ex Paul Mullholand Corsa, pic Owen?
CLEM
 
A change to a smaller diameter master cylinder does seem to work Lothar. At least it did on the sfc1000 and Jota that I did it too 😊👍
Tom
 
ozijotati said:
A change to a smaller diameter master cylinder does seem to work Lothar. At least it did on the sfc1000 and Jota that I did it too 😊👍
Tom
Click to expand...
Smaller? Someone had replaced the master cylinder on my RGS before I bought it. I always thought it's a 13mm instead of the original 12 but check the photo, I could be wrong.
I think it works pretty well with standard calliper and disc but I've never had an original.

IMG_2843.jpeg
 
Thanks, but the setup on the RGS is different from the 1000 SFC; I either need a master with a pull lever instead of a push one or need to find a way how to operate a push one with the setup of the 1000 SFC…
 
Hi Andy, thanks. Are you getting the rear tire to block if you want to, please? That is how the brake works on my Jota (same setup, but half inch jap master)
 
Hi Lothar
It’s nearly 35 years since I had the second of my two bikes, so I am going from a faded memory, but I don’t recall the rear brake ever failing to help haul the bike up in a controlled fashion. It would be possible to lock the rear wheel if you exerted enough pressure, but generally it was giving just enough pressure on the rear disc to help me stop quicker.
I certainly remember one heart in the mouth moment, on wet roads on my first bike, when rounding a blind bend, two up and loaded with luggage, I met a geriatric couple reversing back around the bend because they had missed their turning. A combination of fairly hard front and rear braking was required to stop me piling into the back of the car, and I only had a brief lock-up as I came to a halt a few centimetres from the bumper of their car.
There aren’t a lot of really hard breaking points on the TT course, but where there are, such as Quarterbridge, which you approach down hill with a full tank of fuel, again I had no issues slowing the bike.
However, in saying that, if I jumped on my SFC now after riding my ‘modern’ Benelli, RSVR, or even Lav 668/750 I would probably shit myself if I tried braking as late as I would on them!
 
"There aren’t a lot of really hard breaking points on the TT course"
WHAT!!!

must have heard that wrong, perhaps, there realy are a lot of hard braking on the TT course. How many corners? how many 130 or 160MPH bits before them, have a look at the darkies on the straight bit before Ballacraine, and then the drifting ones around the apex as well.
CLEM
 
Hi Lothar, you may change the length of the lever at the master cylinder and have a longer lever as you can see in the fotos. M=FxL or F1xL1=F2xL2.
Mine is not optimal, I have to make a new fixing plate to lower the master cylinder, but so far it works with the original master and the Suzuki brake caliper and disk
 

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CLEMTOG said:
"There aren’t a lot of really hard breaking points on the TT course"
WHAT!!!

must have heard that wrong, perhaps, there realy are a lot of hard braking on the TT course. How many corners? how many 130 or 160MPH bits before them, have a look at the darkies on the straight bit before Ballacraine, and then the drifting ones around the apex as well.
CLEM
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So how many times do you see the back wheel in the air compared to WSB etc Clem???
 
andre g said:
Hi Lothar, you may change the length of the lever at the master cylinder and have a longer lever as you can see in the fotos. M=FxL or F1xL1=F2xL2.
Mine is not optimal, I have to make a new fixing plate to lower the master cylinder, but so far it works with the original master and the Suzuki brake caliper and disk
Click to expand...
Thanks, Andre. have to check how much space there is (looks like you have the longer lever mounted on a bike that has the original footrest-plate removed, right?).

Did you ever restore the rear master and if yes, what repair kit did you use? Think I have to overhaul it to make it work at least a bit better...
 
"So how many times do you see the back wheel in the air compared to WSB etc Clem???"
err......... plenty of times, as in loads and loads, and very often fresh air under both tyres, plenty of pics around to prove both.
CLEM
 
CLEMTOG said:
there is, its a Kawasaki item, ask Keith Nairn, the adapter required could be made by a ten year old, at least if its the same as an RGS (not sure on that one), Owen Stafford has one on his ex Paul Mullholand Corsa, pic Owen?
CLEM
Click to expand...
I sent the one off the Corsa to Paddy he identified it as: replacement oem Yamaha 4GVF583V0000 (link below) I took some photos as stripped the bike attached are a couple. The brake lever is extended 18mm centre to centre and the linkage is 5 mm shorter. The Corsa is still in dry dock so not used the improved set up but Clem rates it so it must be better than standard RGS set up. :)

https://addictionmotorsport.co.uk/r...er-in-line-back-exit-488mm-mounts-thumb-brake
 

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Thanks, Dexter. This is the setup for the RGS, which is a push-operation. The 1000 SFC has a pull-operation. Not interchangeable unfortunately…
 
Am I dreaming or doesn't a longer lever at the m/cyl DECREASE lever ratio and make an even less powerful rear brake??? My rear brake (Yamaha R6 Brembo master and Monster Brembo cailper) is a bit stronger than I prefer and I'm thinking of swapping to one of the holes I built into the setup further from the pedal pivot point.
 
I extended the rear set lever that the cable attached to on the twin leader rear brake on my 3c expecting a stronger brake and got the opposite effect. It can be counterintuitive. My fix was squirting some lube in can, NOT WD40, on all the brake links. The brake works very well now. I had the same on the rear set gear leaver, it has 2 holes. One results in twice the gear lever movement and it always surprises me which hole gives the better shorter throw. I guess I am not as smart as I think I am.
 
I improved the rear brake on the motodd, standard rear master and brembo caliper from later Ducati, by moving the connecting rod to the lower hole on the original laverda brake lever
 
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