Indicator warning light

H

harpmeister

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UK
The indicator warning light on my RGS has come to the end of its life so I need to source some and my question is what kind of bulbs are they I know/think they are 12v 1.2w and can these be got in the UK also any hints and tips on how to get access to fit it.

Thanks in advance

Joe
 
Start with the fairing 😁
After that I forget, but recall that it was all fairly obvious, if a bit painful 👍, but nowhere near as difficult as a car!
Incidentally, although a blown bulb is as likely as anything else, the fault could also be the flasher relay or any connection in between, possibly easier to check than the bulb 😉
 
If the indicators still work, then the flasher relay is OK.
A non-working dash lamp is most likely a blown globe, but could also be a bad connection in the wiring to the globe.
I don't know what sort of globes are used in the RGS dashboard and the wiring diagram isn't much help. Nor is the parts book because it lists the instrument pod as as an entire assembly with no separate listing for component parts. But if it's wired the same as the earlier Breganze bikes and the Zane era bikes, then it'll need an incandescent globe. Don't be tempted to get a LED equivalent because they only pass current in one direction, so it'll flash when the indicators are switched onto one side, but not the other.
 
It's a type 286 lamp. 12v 1.2w.
Widely available here in the UK. Halfords do 'em, along with many others.

If you're diving in there, upgrading the panel lights to LED is a very worthwhile exercise. Full details on this mod, and a warning about lampholder type, was provided by Ian on the ILOC forum.

Remove the fairing outer for access. The lampholder pulls out but is a bloody tight fit. I find that pushing it to one side before pulling straight down helps. Take lots of care not to damage the flexible plastic backed 'circuit board'. It folds over the hole edges to provide electrical connection to the lampholder. Never yet found a blown lamp, but have found plenty of duff wiring loom connections!
 
Many thanks Rob just the information I was looking for, wanted to get a bulb before I started to dig in there and will start off by checking the wiring first.
 
I dont know if identical, but I failed to get the small idiot and panel lights for TOG (1200TS) same as RGA and 120 Jota, I could find items of very slightly different wattage, which fit the holder, but dont fit into their respective orifices, I use old stuff from another set of clocks, and I was trying to buy a whole box, maybe 50 or 100 to future proof. total failure using the best motor factor in the UK for bulbs, who has tea chests of the same bulb type, and many others ex stock from an ex maufacturer, and of course he buys newly made stuff all the time, have you see the price of gas discharge lamps for a mercedes for example, why? I dont see the need except 50% of £95 is much better that 50% of £9.99 or through Merc for £145 (EEEEEK!)
CLEM
 
Checked out all the wiring and everything is okay but so is the bulb so swapped holders and bulbs with the ones for high beam and that worked , so it looks that the bulb isn't making a great connection in the holder so rather than muck about closing the connections and possibly having them work loose due to vibration I'm going to replace the holders.

Anyone know where I can source these preferably in the UK
 
harpmeister said:
Checked out all the wiring and everything is okay but so is the bulb so swapped holders and bulbs with the ones for high beam and that worked , so it looks that the bulb isn't making a great connection in the holder so rather than muck about closing the connections and possibly having them work loose due to vibration I'm going to replace the holders.

Anyone know where I can source these preferably in the UK
Click to expand...
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I think these are the type you're looking for, but you could almost certainly find them cheaper from any breaker. They're common on car dashboards.
 
Okay I admit it I'm stumped, always was a bit of a mystery to me this newfangled electricity stuff.

New bulb and holder and still no joy, I have continuity from the flasher unit up to the connector block, all good so far, from there up to and across the holder and bulb still got continuity but where does the circuit continue from there ?

All help no matter how unlikely will be investigated, need to get it sorted as MOT due.
 
are you testing it with the ignition turned on and the two indicator lamps, front and back flashing?
CLEM

OK, that was a joke, but sometimes you just never know
 
Joe, the RGS flasher unit has two outputs, one of which feeds the idiot light in the instrument panel directly. Cam hinted at this earlier as a likely cause. Test this output from the flasher unit with a multimeter. I have found this to be a problem in the past on my RGS. If it’s got the original bi-metallic drum unit you can take it apart and bend the tang till it makes contact again. If you have to buy new you should be able to pick up a unit from a local auto parts factor for under £10.
 
As Clem asks, I assume the indicators themselves flash?
Have you recently replaced the flasher relay, or changed the wiring there?

If indicators flash, relay is working. To confirm this, check with a voltmeter that the P terminal on the flasher relay (remove black/ white wire connected to it) has a pulsing 12v supply between the terminal and earth. If you haven't got a voltmeter, use a low wattage 12v lamp and a length of wire instead.

If relay output is confirmed, you need to repeat the check for pulsing 12v supply at the instrument panel connector where the black/white wire terminates. Remove the connector from the panel to do this.

If that checks out, then after replacing the instrument panel connector, you're left with a fiddly check on the flexible printed circuit copper strip where the lampholder is fixed...the pointed probe of a multimeter lead definitely helps for this. Make sure you check the copper strip on both sides of the lampholder in turn. One side should have the pulsing 12v, the other should be earth. Check for continuity between it and a decent frame/engine earth (or battery -) to confirm.
 
harpmeister said:
but where does the circuit continue from there ?
Click to expand...

Not a straight forward answer, but hopefully a complete one:

I'm not familiar with the RGS dash. Does it have two warning lamps for the indicators (left and right) or just the one?

If it's two lamps, then the negative side of both will go to earth.

If it's one lamp, and you have a two pin flasher relay, then the "negative" side will most likely go to the indicators on the other side of the bike. The globe then gets its earth through the globe filaments on the opposite side.
However, if it has a 3-pin indicator relay using a separate output for the dash lamp, the negative side of the globe holder in the dash will go to earth.
 
Dellortoman said:
However, if it has a 3-pin indicator relay using a separate output for the dash lamp, the negative side of the globe holder in the dash will go to earth.
Click to expand...

Cam, that was the factory set up, with the 3 pin flasher unit.
If indicators are working but the idiot light on the panel does not work, simply swap the two output connector wires on the flasher unit and determine if the problem is transposed. If so, you have a faulty flasher unit. If that doesn’t identify the problem then Rob’s detailed advice should be followed.
 
Okay problem now solved and just incase anyone is in the same position do what Laverdian suggests and swap the two output wires on the flasher unit first and see if the problem is transposed this will tell you if the flasher unit is faulty as was the case with me.

You can have a faulty flasher unit and your indicators will still work all it means is that the bi metal strip to the output to the warning light is not making contact properly. ( I think )
 
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