Installing studs

C

chrissoz

Senior member
Location
Sydney, Australia
Removed all studs before getting the cases vapour blasted - now I need to reinstall but unsure of torque/locktite. Had a look through green book and this site but nothing obvious.

They were pretty tight in the cases and needed a bit of heat application to get them out.

These are the M6 and M8 case studs and the M10 cylinder studs.

Green book seemed to indicate that these studs had a mix of copper, dome and regular nuts but mine had a single dome nut and everything else looked pretty normal - does this sound right for a 73SF1?
 
Now how can I phase this so I don't cause offence, make sure the long threaded end goes into the case. A DPO fitted one of mine upside-down and years later using the stupidly high head toque figures in the green book it pulled out.
 
I'm not certain that you needed to take the studs out.
No copper nuts, there are copper washers under some nuts, at least one dome nut on a 6mm stud.
Check on the parts list which you'll find in the library somewhere.
Paul
 
There's one copper washer and it goes under the M6 dome nut that should be put on on the stud on the l/h rear of the crankcase. All the rest are regular M6 and M8 nuts. I like to use the higher Italian nuts, prettier and stronger.

Marnix
 
I did my SF cases Chris - all studs - and just fitted them using the double locked nut method with a firm tightening keeping in mind that I didn't want them winding out with a nut at some later date.
 
Thanks for the information - anyone know why just one of the nuts is dome with a copper washer? I noted where it went - but it did not have a copper washer (maybe replaced prior - the engine has certainly been apart before).
Vince - no problem - better to be told stuff you know than to get it wrong!
Marnix - Did not realised the tall nuts were an Italian standard!
So view is "firm tightening" but no locktite?
 
Is the dome nut M6 or M10? I bought new head nuts from Wolfgang about 5 years ago and they all came as domed M10s, which I think came on the pre-73 or '72 SFs. I actually prefer the look of the original SF1 squared-off head ones over either the old domed ones or the SF2/3 yellow plastic locking ones.

As mentioned there's an M6 domed nut that seals the stud at the rear left behond the clutch area - if you look inside you can see why: the stud breaks through inside. Copper washer seals it.
 
I just cover that breach to the m6 stud behind the clutch from the inside with a thick smear of sealant, has been there "for ever" and doesn't impede the stud.
 
chrissoz said:
Coat rack as in exposed threads rather than coat rack as in terminally broken and sitting in the hall for people to hang their coats on?
Click to expand...
It’s a funny way of criticizing exposed threads on bikes here in Holland, yes, freely translated into English..

Paul and I know an SFC that was literally used as a coat rack, fortunately a replica..

Marnix
 
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