Intermitent electrical issue 3CL fresh motor & rewired

E

earemike

New member
Location
Australia
Hi all,

Thought I?d appeal to the great minds on this forum to help me trouble shoot.

I recently purchased a 3CL that had been sitting for a couple of years but red had done the motor (est 5k) & the owner had rewired. It has the upgraded charging system and a Sachse ZDG3.2.

Winding her out in a passing manoeuvre on the freeway she lost power & died. On the side of the road I couldn?t immediately get it going. I looked for any obvious lose connections.

10 mins later she restarted! Then a few km down the road she died again.

I think it took me about 5 more stops on the side of the road to get her home. Each time if I waited 5 minutes or so it?d restart.

One time when she died she felt like she was running on one before stopping, another time she was dying I kept going and she picked up.

Wiring looks good although I see the previous owner velcroed the ignition box to a backing plate behind the battery & this has come lose/unstuck.

Obviously I need to refit the ignition box however not sure if I should be looking for an earth/connection issue? Also not sure if ignition switch terminal corrosion could contribute?

Appreciate any guidance, I know nothing about these things & someone may have experienced the exact symptoms.

Thanks.
 
Could be a number of things but I think the Sachse ignitions are voltage sensitive and will shut down if the voltage is too high check that the regulator is actually regulating correctly not sure what the cutout point is as far as voltage goes in the module but stick your multimeter across the battery terminals and see how many volts you are getting at around 4000 RPM you wouldn't want much more than 14.1 volts.
Do you have a relay switching the 12V in to the module?
 
tom3c75 said:
Are you sure that it's not fuel starvation?
Click to expand...

I reckon you hit the nail on the head!

I?ve had trouble with the fuel cap popping open on the rough roads & cut a seal from an old tube - May have blocked the vent!
 
Had the same issue 20 years ago with a Witt DMC 1 ignition, same scenario.
Turned out to be a faulty twin coil.
Does the Sachse unit retain the original coils?

Gerald
 
maurice turner said:
Could be a number of things but I think the Sachse ignitions are voltage sensitive and will shut down if the voltage is too high check that the regulator is actually regulating correctly not sure what the cutout point is as far as voltage goes in the module but stick your multimeter across the battery terminals and see how many volts you are getting at around 4000 RPM you wouldn't want much more than 14.1 volts.
Do you have a relay switching the 12V in to the module?
Click to expand...

Thanks Maurice, there?s a relay next to the unit. Will be worth me checking the charging - blew up a battery on my Guzzi not that long ago.
 
Gerald said:
Had the same issue 20 years ago with a Witt DMC 1 ignition, same scenario.
Turned out to be a faulty twin coil.
Does the Sachse unit retain the original coils?

Gerald
Click to expand...

Thanks Gerald, I?d wondered that for a moment, dyna coils on this one.
 
Thanks for your help all,

An amazing amount of solid advice in a short time  (cheers)

Appreciate it, reckon she?ll be sorted tomorrow  :D
 
Mike , check your connections into the sacshe box, they can wiggle loose. Don't ya love a intermittent fault.... not  >:D

Good luck, I like your confidence  ;)
 
hooksey said:
Mike , check your connections into the sacshe box, they can wiggle loose. Don't ya love a intermittent fault.... not  >:D

Good luck, I like your confidence  ;)
Click to expand...

+1

Had same problem on the le mans.
 
Does the Sachse system rely on a Hall sensor? Hard starting when hot can be a symptom of a failing Hall sensor. Motor usually starts normally once the temp has dropped a bit.
 
treoleileagh said:
Does the Sachse system rely on a Hall sensor? Hard starting when hot can be a symptom of a failing Hall sensor. Motor usually starts normally once the temp has dropped a bit.
Click to expand...

depends on how old the Sachse system is, early versions were Optical but then Volker changed to using Hall Effect sensors as they have a higher working temperature rating then the Optical units

heat does not affect the Hall Effect sensors as such, heat has more effect on the magnets in the rotors as it reduces the magnetic field they produce, if your system is Hall Effect than you need to check that the magnetic rotor has been installed with the magnets in line with the sensors, misalignment can cause similar issue as you describe.
When you bought the bike you should have been supplied with the rotor puller to suit the rotor you have installed

a lot of so called ignition issues turn out to be fuel related but it is easier to blame the ignition

 
Thanks again all, rectified the potential breather blockage in the fuel cap (I?m sure that was it) & secured the ignition box.

Took me a prod to consider the obvious!
 
hooksey said:
So...... what was it Mike, had a chance for a test run yet ?
Click to expand...

100% sure it was fuel starvation mate, I got over keen sealing the filler cap. Went for a ride on the only highway (quite bumpy) & the fuel cap kept popping open; rather unpleasant being covered in fuel just after heading out... hence my ill advised repair.

Secured the ignition box so there was less chance of it biting me later. Had a Guzzi with dyna that broke down, probably took me an hour and a half to find that broken wire and get going again.

Test run was about 180km, apart from a couple of unusual mid corner wobbles (read: the lemans don?t wobble there) and a weird feeling if I last minute brake on turn in (fork flex or more dive/movement than I?m used too) it performed admirably.

The engine spins up beautifully, a wonderful conveyance indeed.
 
You will never know for sure where the fault lies if you change more than one thing at the same time. But if it is now running well one of the things you did was the correct one so I guess that is all that matters.
 
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