introducing myself

michipons

michipons

Hero member
Location
Palma de Mallorca
Dear all,

My name is Miguel, from Palma de Mallorca, Spain. Almost none of you know me, however I do know some of you, may be from ordering parts, or asking some technical questions, sometimes I feel I know some of you already after having read hundreds of messages of you.

I am an amateur mechanic, started with classic bikes a few years ago, an exception in my generation, I am 34. I have a BMW R100RS, Ducati 748R, Le Mans 1, Vespa '55, and a Laverda SF3 that I am now restoring from bottom to top. Today I visited a Laverda 1000 from '74 that I will probably buy.

I have to say that I am extremely thankful to this forum, the level is amazing, a knowledge that no book can probably give. I spend hours and hours reading topics that exceed from far my skills, so I apologize already for some stupid questions that I will post from now on, and ask for your patience.

Yesterday I spent part of the night reading the topic about the cam timing, from 2011 I believe. All explanations and photos were for the triples, so I couldn't figure out how to translate the system to the 750, do somebody have some photos of the process? like how to measure the valve movement on the cylinder head? Another thing I didn't understand was the reason of drilling so many holes in the timing sprocket when you actually need just a few degrees to one side or another? is it not enough to file the existing bolt hole to both sides in order to have lets say 2 mm of movement to each side?

Thank you very much for your time and sorry for my english, I hope it is understandable.

Regards,
Miguel.
 
Hi Steph!

Thanks!

Yes, I've seen that article already. Maybe for somebody with experience in cam timing, reading that is very obvious, however for me, after 4 or 5 lines, I am completely lost  :LOL: :LOL:
Would be great to have some photos of the design of the tool with the dial gauge that he speaks about to measure the valve movement, i can't just make a mental picture of it. May be once I sit in front of the cylinder head, I can figure it out better. The cylinder head is now getting new valve seats and guides...

Regards,
Miguel.
 
I set my cam timing 5 deg advanced using only a degree wheel, a piece of wire and ONE dial gauge. Think I did inlet each one side. Casn confirm accuracy by double checking against exhaust figures.

Slotted the camchain wheel and widened the keyway to allow for about 10 deg each way. Found exact TDC (that's what the wire points to), determined degrees at max lift (almost universally in the middle of opening and closing) and timed it that way. You just need to know what the cam timing numbers are for your particular cam profile - mine was a 5/C - and then work out when (ATDC, BTDC, ABDC, BBDC) your dial gauge should hit max lift. Takes a little juggling of the nut loosening and tightening sequence, but works if you give it some thought.
 
Dellortoman said:
Not sure whether that lump of aluminium plate is thick enough to support those heavy dial gauges :D
Click to expand...

Tsk!  Bloody critics ....  :P

Redax Laverda, Never Knowlingly Under-Engineered
 
You should see the steel blocks he uses to press the cranks, their eye wateringly heavy as well with finger crushing as an optional extra.
 
Michipons, if you have engineering skills and or access to such you can make new cam flanges with adjustment slots for new threaded holes in the sprocket, that way you can adjust each side independently quite simply. Had to do it for my 270 deg motor, no keyway through the sprocket, just keys for the flanges to the cams. Apparently standard cams can vary between the left and right hand sides, but I have never checked. On my road SF2 I have done as Quentin suggested, just degreed them both together with slotted flanges and widened keyway slot in the sprocket.
 
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