It's ALIVE!
- Thread starter Rockitdoc
- Start date
H
Harry Lime
Guest
Rockitdoc said:
Unless you've really mistreated it somehow, I'd send it back and ask for a replacement. Those batteries are an expensive, premium product.
I've got one in my BMW and it's nearly ten years old. Sometimes I charge it, sometimes I don't bother. Works perfectly (touch wood!). So I can't agree with the "picky charging cycle" comments. My experience is different.
I must add that I think the rest of the market has caught up with Oddyssey over those ten years. I'm using Motobatts now when batteries need renewing.
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
If it's not resistance in the engine causing the Ampers to go up and the Voltage to go down, it can be simply a "Monday product" as we call it (bad quality that slipped through the quality check).
If a different battery does not show the same effect, go the warranty claim route. if another shows the same effect, it might be the starter or the cable has an issue or the engine needs some running-in.
If a different battery does not show the same effect, go the warranty claim route. if another shows the same effect, it might be the starter or the cable has an issue or the engine needs some running-in.
Rockitdoc
Hero member
- Location
- Fort Collins, Colorado
I have a Li battery I put in my Duc Superlight back when I was trying to be a boy racer and wanted low weight. May only issue with that battery is the tendency for them to start really stupendous fires if any shorting goes on. Really light, though. Probably will go with either the Deka or Motoblat, if I can find a maintenance free model with enough cold cranking amps (200+?)
renetriple
Full member
- Location
- near Rotterdam, Holland
Have bought an Exide AGM battery (SLA12-31) 12V/30Ah/CCA = 380Amp. for ?139,- in the SFC1000.
I choose especially for an AGM battery in combination with a high CCA value because these batteries have about a half volt more then a wet cell one, say 12,9V in stead of 12,4V. But also because of the very high CCA value the voltage drop is not to much for the coils. And at least the battery lives longer of course because it?s no hard work for him.
When I had starting troubles a few years ago I could start for almost 7 seconds with the same rpm of the starter so it was a good desicion. With a battery tester (a big resistance shunt over the battery) the voltage drops now when starting to 11,5V. With a bad battery it drops to almost 9 Volts in the past. Not good for a firm spark.
The only thing is when you choose for an AGM don?t forget to install a voltage stabiliser in the feed to the blue box DMC to prevent it?s going in cut-out mode at 14V to protect it self. Spikes from the generator when charging could stop it working when running (as in my case).
So big is better for a battery. And once in a month an extra fill up with the Optimate charger is enough due to the low self discharge from the AGM.
grtz and thanx for the very informative rebuild of the SFC1000 and suc6 with it, beautyful bike!!
Ren?
I choose especially for an AGM battery in combination with a high CCA value because these batteries have about a half volt more then a wet cell one, say 12,9V in stead of 12,4V. But also because of the very high CCA value the voltage drop is not to much for the coils. And at least the battery lives longer of course because it?s no hard work for him.
When I had starting troubles a few years ago I could start for almost 7 seconds with the same rpm of the starter so it was a good desicion. With a battery tester (a big resistance shunt over the battery) the voltage drops now when starting to 11,5V. With a bad battery it drops to almost 9 Volts in the past. Not good for a firm spark.
The only thing is when you choose for an AGM don?t forget to install a voltage stabiliser in the feed to the blue box DMC to prevent it?s going in cut-out mode at 14V to protect it self. Spikes from the generator when charging could stop it working when running (as in my case).
So big is better for a battery. And once in a month an extra fill up with the Optimate charger is enough due to the low self discharge from the AGM.
grtz and thanx for the very informative rebuild of the SFC1000 and suc6 with it, beautyful bike!!
Ren?
H
Harry Lime
Guest
renetriple said:
Hmm. That's going to be interesting Spring / Summer 2015.
I'll be running in a '76 triple with a DMC and a Motobatt battery. Thanks for the heads up!
But I thought the DMC was OK with high voltages?
I don't mind boiling a battery if my regulator blows....but I'm not happy cooking all the ignition components :-(
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lemonjelly
Guest
Looking at Ballistic Lithium batteries, ,not sure which one I need for the 1200 and 1000s ,anyone know?
A friend has one on his Commando,light small and powerful.I have liked my Odyssey but when they die there is no warning,as i found in France! I expect lithiums just explode at least
A friend has one on his Commando,light small and powerful.I have liked my Odyssey but when they die there is no warning,as i found in France! I expect lithiums just explode at least
beauchemin
Senior member
- Location
- Victoria, British Columbia
Harry Lime said:
NO
Rockitdoc
Hero member
- Location
- Fort Collins, Colorado
Ren?renetriple said:
Thanks for the kind words. Started her up again today. Figured out the battery issue. Odyssey was fine. Putting out somethiing like 400 amps and steady as a rock with a load. I hooked it back up (this time making sure connections were freaking tight) and cranks like a motherf&*#er. I must not have had the cables on tight enough before. Only explanation. Let that be a lesson to me. :-[
Rockitdoc
Hero member
- Location
- Fort Collins, Colorado
renetriple said:
Doesn't my SFC have a voltage regulator, er 'stabiliser'? That's what I thought the silver ribbed box was to the rear of the DMC.
Correct, or no? ???
T
Terry Dymond
Guest
If its the same layout as an RGS, which I think it is, that ribbed box is indeed the voltage regulator; serves two purposes: converts ac to dc and regulates the output at different rpm.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
Yes, the box with cooling fins is a regulator, but DMC ignitions can be sensitive to voltage that the regulator will be OK with.
Just to relate my experience with a DMC unit ... It gradually got less tolerant of high volts as it aged. The problem first became evident when the threshold voltage level at which it would go tits up dropped to below normal system voltage of the bike. The bike would start missing and backfiring. I figured it was a high voltage problem because switching the headlight on cleared it and the bike would run OK again. Uwe Witt sent me the little voltage limiter to wire into the feed to the DMC box, which I think he said was set at about 10V. That kept the ignition going for another couple of years, but it eventually got to the point where it would struggle even at 10V. So I pensioned it off in favour of an Ignitech.
Just to relate my experience with a DMC unit ... It gradually got less tolerant of high volts as it aged. The problem first became evident when the threshold voltage level at which it would go tits up dropped to below normal system voltage of the bike. The bike would start missing and backfiring. I figured it was a high voltage problem because switching the headlight on cleared it and the bike would run OK again. Uwe Witt sent me the little voltage limiter to wire into the feed to the DMC box, which I think he said was set at about 10V. That kept the ignition going for another couple of years, but it eventually got to the point where it would struggle even at 10V. So I pensioned it off in favour of an Ignitech.
Rockitdoc
Hero member
- Location
- Fort Collins, Colorado
Here's what it looks like:
I am getting some farting while running at greater than 1000 revs. I don't think voltage is dropping based on the test done earlier today. However, I checked dynamic timing, and at 1000 revs I'm at 20 degrees advanced. Should be more like 10 degrees, right? Note the silver DMC box.
I am getting some farting while running at greater than 1000 revs. I don't think voltage is dropping based on the test done earlier today. However, I checked dynamic timing, and at 1000 revs I'm at 20 degrees advanced. Should be more like 10 degrees, right? Note the silver DMC box.
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
Hi Scott, you are running the bike without airbox. Do you know which pilot and main jets you have in the carbs? Should be 118 main and 65 idle I think; also position of the needle might need correction (clip on lowest position/needle highest position). Check setting of the idle mixture when completely warmed up and adjust with the mixture screw.
Silver DMC is one of the first 50 or so, handmade by Uwe Witt. Later ones were manufactured in bigger badges for him.
Silver DMC is one of the first 50 or so, handmade by Uwe Witt. Later ones were manufactured in bigger badges for him.
Rob
Hero member
- Location
- Midlands, UK
Checking timing at less than full advance is fraught. Suggest you set the DMC DIP switches to the standard factory curve with full advance at low revs, or be prepared to rev the bike to the redline to ensure fully advanced. See Witt instructions for details
H
Harry Lime
Guest
redax5 said:
Good point. When I got the bike, the DPO had installed a rectifier, but no regulator[1], which rapidly trashed the Yausa battery as it was pushing up to high voltages - I measured over 18DCV so it was probably going higher at times.
DMC stayed intact though. And I'm sure it hasn't got an auxiliary "limiter" as I've been through the wiring whilst installing a regulator/rectifier as well as making a few other corrections.
[1] I'm aware early triples had this arrangement, depending on headlamp and/or battery to "even things out". Often wondered why such a crazy system ever left the factory. Anyone know?
Rockitdoc
Hero member
- Location
- Fort Collins, Colorado
The air box for my bike just arrived from Wolfgang so, two more questions for you guys:
1) I've heard that cutting holes in the bottom of the air cleaner box is a good idea on the 1000SFC. Yes, no? What's the consensus?
2) What's your opinion on the best way to get the air box on the bike? a) carbs and box connected together, then fitted? b) try to get the box on the carbs after the carbs are fitted? (I already tried this and it doesn't seem possible), c) remove the whole engine from the frame, fit the carbs and box, then ....?
1) I've heard that cutting holes in the bottom of the air cleaner box is a good idea on the 1000SFC. Yes, no? What's the consensus?
2) What's your opinion on the best way to get the air box on the bike? a) carbs and box connected together, then fitted? b) try to get the box on the carbs after the carbs are fitted? (I already tried this and it doesn't seem possible), c) remove the whole engine from the frame, fit the carbs and box, then ....?
T
Terry Dymond
Guest
Take the carbies off, fit the airbox, refit the carbies then fit the the three inlet tubes.
I sealed the airbox inlet and drilled three 32 mm holes in the bottom of the box. Don't know if it's got more power but it sure sounds better :
I sealed the airbox inlet and drilled three 32 mm holes in the bottom of the box. Don't know if it's got more power but it sure sounds better :
Rockitdoc
Hero member
- Location
- Fort Collins, Colorado
Terry Dymond said:
Sealed the airbox inlet?
I never heard one of these before the first time I fired her up last week, and I gotta say, it was worth the price of admission! I can see why you guys (now, me) are smitten. Drilling holes in the bottom of the airbox makes her sound better? This I gotta hear!