Jota brake master cylinder

J

Jota996

Junior member
Location
Northumberland
Hi All

simple question............

I want to try another master cylinder on the jota to give more feel, any suggestions as to what i could try, id vuy secondhand probably and rebuild if necessary, not bothered if rectangular or round Italian or jap just want better feel.... 
already have braided lines

Id go for a new ap Lockheed but they are tons of money!

sorry if this has been answered before, did a quick search and couldn't see anything...

cheers and happy new year

Stu
 
Try looking at Carpi moto

you could use this https://www.carpimoto.it/en-ES/42207_10462095-Brembo-PS-13-Brake-Master-Cylinder.htm

or this https://www.carpimoto.it/en-ES/51016_10505351-Brembo-PS-13-Brake-Master-Cylinder.htm then you would need to get the reservoir etc

 
Hello Stu,

first of all - can you pls. give us some more info on your current setup, please, and what you have changed already or are willing to change?

I have changed mine in several steps and ended up with the Laverda Zane Brake system (with 2 4-pot calipers), first mounted to the original 280mm discs and later (with the swap to GSX-R-rims) to 305mm discs. I can tell that there is a huge difference between a well serviced, new seals standard brake system with the right pads and "Stahlflex" or similar lines and a badly serviced, wrong pads, standard lines system already. So - if you want to stay as close as possible to the original, I would start with servicing the master and the calipers, take the right pads (green I think to remember) and mount some rubber hose covered stainless liners like Stahlflex. this gives already quite an improvement.

Else, there is only the way of either going to 4-pots or reducing - as suggested before - the piston size of the master.

If you have changed the discs already from the original casted ones to stainless f.e., make sure the pads installed are for stainless discs.
 
Standard original brembo master cylinder, stainless lines, original brembo calipers, stainless discs

When I pull the brake on it has no 'bite', the lever is very solid, slows you down but not what i remember from previous Jotas, just dull with hardly any response and no feedback at all.

I suppose it may have incorrect pads in for the stainless discs? but that wouldn't account for the hard feel?....

Stuart
 
Maybe it just feels hard because when you squeeze hard it doesn't bite. If you squeezed like that and it locked the front wheel you wouldn't say it had a hard feel. Do as suggested and service the whole system before investing in different parts. Stainless discs definitely need different pads than cast. Reach to the lever with your fingers, and the further in/out on the handlebar also has a major effect on brake efficiency.
 
How can I tell which pads are in... obviously ill take them out to look....    :D
which ones do I need for the stainless discs.... my last two Jotas had the cast iron rotors?

Stu
 
Maybe time for an overhaul of the system as you say. Master cylinder and caliper seals.
I don't know about stainless discs but maybe they give a less progressive feel than the cast iron ones?

Paul
 
Stu, who sold you the stainless discs or have they been on the bike since you have it? If you bought them, ask the seller. if not, I think EBC Gold Stuff should work (if you can get them for the P08).
 
Sintered pads are generally used with stainless discs, although its always worth checking with the disc supplier for their recommendations.  I have used EBC HH with EBC stainless discs and they work very well.  Loads of feel and progression. 

I used Brembo high co-efficient organic ('CC') pads on some one-off stainless discs where the surface was being torn by the HH items. Again, they perform well.  Note that there are two versions of the CC pad - 07BB1418 is the one you're after, not 07BB1408

Have also had good results with sbs pads - again both organic (506HF) or sintered (506RS)
 
Hi Stu, I can highly recommend EBC FA018 HH sintered pads for stainless discs. They need some time for running in, but then they will bite like hell.
Ciao, Gert
 
The pads that are in the calipers are GOLDFREN KBA60878, i think!

a web search seems to show they are sintered?....

might just order a set of EBC's to be on the safe side,

Stuart
 
In that case, I would start with completely rebuilding all parts (callipers and master) and install "Stahlflex" liners. Not saying it will 100% improve the situation, but we did exactly that on the system of my son's friend and he was amazed with the new feel and braking power.

Important to thoroughly clean all parts off of any alloy corrosion and replace the calliper's and the brake master's pistons. For the brake-master, there is a "how-to" that seemed to have helped some here:

https://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,82062.0.html

when re-installing, bleeding the air out can be a real PITA. I always put the pistons of the callipers "only just" in and fill the callipers with brake-fluid first through the joint where the brake lines go in, mount the brake lines and then install the callipers on the bike. Connect the lines to the distributor, then the one line to the master and fill the reservoir to minimum. This way you can push the fluid upwards by pushing in the pistons (make sure the do not fall out on the other calliper while you push one side in!). Once done so, move the handle of the master only a bit so that the last bubbles go out. Might take up to 15 - 20 minutes but removes most of the bubbles. Install the brake pads, try to get a solid point on the lever by pulling it in several times and repeat the gentle pulling for removing more bubbles. should work out without any issues. Make sure though, that you turn the front wheel to the left and adjust the master so that the reservoir is horizontal and the highest point before you start, else there will be bubbles hiding still somewhere in the system.

Good luck!!
 
go down this route, 916 master cylinder generic (eg) 916/Zane callipers, very rare 27mm offset 320mm rotors (no speedo problems) and Reds callipers, but fitted to the front and shimmed correctly. You can use generic 320 rotors with 7mm offset and different bolt PCD, but (again) red makes adapter rings, but can (not always) cause speedo drive gearbox problems, in my set up that didn't happen so I don't know about it, should you want correct offset rotors mine came from  Cagiva 500 GP bike. I believe some Ducati race bikes also used them (Paddy?)
take note of Robs comments on pads and s/s rotors. makes a huge difference
CLEM
 

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Laverdalothar said:
In that case, I would start with completely rebuilding all parts (callipers and master) and install "Stahlflex" liners. Not saying it will 100% improve the situation, but we did exactly that on the system of my son's friend and he was amazed with the new feel and braking power.
Click to expand...

What exactly did you do to your son's friend?
I've done colonoscopies, cardiac stents, abortions but that sounds horrible.

Paul
 
Steve Austin, astronaut. A man barely alive. Gentlemen, we can rebuild him. We have the technology. We have the capability to build the world's first bionic man. Steve Austin will be that man. Better than he was before. Better, stronger, faster.

Sounds like a Redax motor.

Jim
 
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