Jota engine out virgin

Nah, this is a strop

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/70/Razor_and_strop.JPG/1920px-Razor_and_strop.JPG
 
I did the engine mounting just like Grant described. Even on the 1000 SFC, this was a question of seconds to get it right. Engine supported, laying on the left side (make sure you do not dent or crack the primary cover!). Frame over it and screws slightly fastened, you can move it back the 90 degrees and mount the front fork. Easy peasy.

My brother did an engine swob with a mate in less than 30 minutes from running engine to running engine. that were the good times though Piet was already talking about when we were young and loved the challenge...  :D
 
good news and bad news (possibly)?

 

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If you are referring to the frame tube - nope. That's a big shit load of chain rub wear.

If you are referring to Laverda restoration - hold on to your hat, it's a bumpy ride all the way. Fun, but can be intricate and varied.
 
Ha!  :D

So, what to do? Take it to my expert welder Stuart to build it back up into a solid round bar?

This will be a re-commission only, I haven't the time, money nor the patience to attempt a proper resto. I've only done one - a 1965 1275 Mini Cooper S....'took years off my life and every time I take it out, there's some herbert telling me what's not correct!
 
no use building that area back up as it will only wear again, get your expert welder to just shape and weld a wear plate over it
while you are at the welders get him to weld in a gusset on the frame down tubes at the head stock
if they are not already cracked they will eventually and it is much easier to do that repair with the engine out


 
Very useful info, thanks.
Will be going down that road soon since the engine will be coming out of my 3C for a check and a cosmetic refurb of the cycle parts.

Only dealt with a triple engine once and that was way back.....

Paul
 
My headstock and down tubes look pretty well gussetted as they are and are as the sketch in the relevant chapter of the green book.
I can't see where I'd get any more bracing in without incommoting either the choke lever, oil cooler, ignition equipment or all three (?)  ???
 
Oh no...another folks pass. Will I never learn??
In the meantime, Anyone got a photo of a suitably braced headstock/downtubes?
 
Steve B's excellent website "Breganzane" has some clues if you follow the menus to his RGA rebuild (link below). The RGA frame is a bit different to your Jota in a couple of areas, but the headstock bracing is the same.

http://www.breganzane.com/rebuilds/rga/rga_phase1.php

There a couple of basic engineering principles to observe with this sort of work.
- Avoid stress concentrators such as internal corners or sudden changes in cross-section.
- Weld gussets to the neutral axis of the frame tubes (in this case, the sides of the tubes rather than top and bottom).
- To avoid potential distortion, use a welding method that minimises heating to the surrounding frame. TIG or MIG is good.
 
TStanb said:
Oh no...another folks pass. Will I never learn??
In the meantime, Anyone got a photo of a suitably braced headstock/downtubes?
Click to expand...

It's funny, but if you use the search function of the forum using the words "Frame crack" things like this appear http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,95840.60.html

I did have photos of the bracing of my frame included but they have gone to the ether since I pulled the pin on Photobucketblackmail.
 
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