Jota Oil Change for a Noob

V

Vulcan7

New member
Location
U.K.
Hello all,

So I've had the Jota back from Keith Nairn just short of a month following new pistons, rods, barrels, exhaust valves etc. I've done 550 miles on her, what a bike. It certainly has a smile appeal, especially the noise. Did an oil change last night as it was getting a black and I thought it was better to be safe than sorry.

Started for 10/15 minutes to get a bit of heat in to it, dropped it and left for a good half hour until nothing else was coming out (I tilted the bike over to get as much out as possible). When it came to topping up I thought it best to put just less than 3L of oil in and check the dipstick, when I did this it was over what I think is the maximum (2nd notch?)! I then drained some out so it was between the two notches (optimum?). Haven't had chance to go out and get the oil hot to check again but thought I'd post up here to see if any one had any ideas? The dipstick is 220mm long as per triple spec.

She's also smoking a little on start and even when warm and after a reasonably hard ride. Not too much and not constantly, but enough to be noticeable. Could this be rings still bedding in even after the 700 miles its done since it was rebuilt?

Learning the old marque slowly.

Joe
 
Or speak to Keith.

I assume you held the dipstick vertical in the opening, not at an angle touching the threads. But that usually leads to over filling.
 
Sorry, the bit about the smoking was a separate concern, it was doing it before the oil change.

Dipstick held vertical as per all the advice/instructions I've read on here  :)
 
This is a bit controversy, early models tend to hold maybe half a litre of oil in the primary case. The flow between the main case and primary became easier on later models with bigger holes between them. Maybe the oil cooler and hoses can hold some as well.
I like to do my changes directly after a long hard run when the oil is as hot as I can get it, yep I do get my fingers a bit burned.
 
Thanks Vince. I think as long as it's at the right level on the dipstick, there is enough in there. I think I'll do the next one after it's stinking hot too and see what the results are then.
 
I've been told you should never run rings/bores in by cruising at constant throttle but be constantly on/off the power. Just riding around town should do it...
 
For how many miles? Keith did 200-odd before returning it and I've done 550ish on/off the throttle with some, unavoidable, constant-throttle.
 
Vince said:
This is a bit controversy, early models tend to hold maybe half a litre of oil in the primary case. The flow between the main case and primary became easier on later models with bigger holes between them. Maybe the oil cooler and hoses can hold some as well.
I like to do my changes directly after a long hard run when the oil is as hot as I can get it, yep I do get my fingers a bit burned.
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My preferred method as well, and I put on el-cheapo rubberized gloves to avoid glazed fingers :D
 
hooksey said:
Vulcan ,

you are talking to the horses arse mate..... speak to the head,  and that would be Keffee  ;)
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Very well put Hooksey! Go straight to the 'mane' man and don't take 'neigh' for an answer.
There only 'Whinnys' no losers, perhaps all that is required is 'adjistment' :D

Keith won't bite your head off and from my experience is an excellent problem solver!
 
Main thing is dont overfill...ask Keith about smoke..why not take a video on phone and ping? After 700 miles just ride normally in my view no special treatment.
 
If you use a lot of choke on start you will get smoke...not a function of burning oil but fuel.use minimum choke for minimum time.Keith sets them right but lean so they need to be warmed before will idle..a pain but i try to not rely on the choke except to fire up then warm enough to get away..soon warms when on the move!  Engine proably needs some proper revs...enough runni g in malarky!
 
nick7 said:
Engine proably needs some proper revs...enough runni g in malarky!
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Thanks for your replies chaps. I spoke to the man himself and says not to worry. Funnily enough he said exactly what you have said, Nick, "it needs a good thraping". I didn't think I was overly gentle but having not been north of 5.5/6k rpm it seems I was being a little too nice and have orders to ring its neck which should clear it. If it gets worse then we have a problem.

On the oil issue, I have the answer. Vince said it earlier and was confirmed by Keith. The missing half a litre will be in the primary side and to drain it as well next oil change.

Thanks for all of your input, it's what makes forums like this great  :).

Joe
 
Joe - you didn't mention what oil you used for your change.  I know Keith will have given you chapter and verse about using Morris 20/50 V-twin mineral...hopefully you will have stayed with a mineral oil to complete running in.  Synthetic or semi-synthetic (possibly referred to as 'ester') is definitely NOT what you need.  Bores will glaze and engine will smoke like a naughty schoolboy round the back of the bikesheds - DAMHIK  And no, I don't want to turn this into another oil thread  :-X
 
You're right Rob, I've stuck to Keith's advice and bought 25L of the Morris 20/50 V-twin. It's a shame it didn't come in time for when I planned to do the change so I now have 27L of it after buying a 5L tub!
 
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