Knee grips printing
- Thread starter Paul Marx
- Start date
Exmoor beast
Hero member
- Location
- Minehead,Somerset, ENGLAND OF COURSE
My mate tried 3d printing my GT knee pads but couldn't do the reverse lip on the other side- that’s not to say someone else couldn’t
Somebody in S.Germany had some made a few years ago, can't remember who, though. I bought a pair for mine, they were as original, pricey but nice.
Not CAD savvy enough to do it myself, so, if you can supply a stl. file, I'd be willing to give it a try.
I've printed quite a few rubber odds and sods, although they actually fit and work OK, the finish is not really overwhelming. TPU "rubber" filament cannot be printed reliably in layers less than 0.07mm, surface always reamains a little rough. Pic is of the rubber spacer installed in 500 headlamp brackets top and bottom. They are mostly concealed when installed, so finish isn't that important.
piet
Not CAD savvy enough to do it myself, so, if you can supply a stl. file, I'd be willing to give it a try.
I've printed quite a few rubber odds and sods, although they actually fit and work OK, the finish is not really overwhelming. TPU "rubber" filament cannot be printed reliably in layers less than 0.07mm, surface always reamains a little rough. Pic is of the rubber spacer installed in 500 headlamp brackets top and bottom. They are mostly concealed when installed, so finish isn't that important.
piet
Search needs to be pursued. I'm a total virgin in the domain.
The grips could be stuck on if there's a furrow on the back. Wouldn't need the lip.
One of my sons who has a 125 Trail found that the grips on that were identical to a Monark and were still being made to order in Sweden. Will have a look that way first.
Paul
The grips could be stuck on if there's a furrow on the back. Wouldn't need the lip.
One of my sons who has a 125 Trail found that the grips on that were identical to a Monark and were still being made to order in Sweden. Will have a look that way first.
Paul
sideshow
Hero member
Hi Paul, if the Swedish connection fails, get the pad drawn up by someone and then look for someone who has an SLS Selective laser sintering) Printer, they are much different from the filament printers that Piet and I have. SLS printing is sintered powders, doesn't matter if it's metal powder or plastic powder. TPU is the right material for the job, it's a Thermoplastic Polyurethane . Once you have your drawing, get it in .3mf format, which is the best 3d printing format file and upload it here, https://craftcloud3d.com/?utm_campa...dium=homepage&utm_content=https://all3dp.com/
make sure to choose SLS printing, and then they will give you the price straight away based on how many you want and what lead time you need it in.
to give you an idea of how SLS printing works, I show a lot of people this clip, its a Bugatti brake calliper being printed, there is a lot of post-production work to get it looking nice, but you could never machine anything with as little waste, or use as little time, and have a similar product.
SLS printing is the same principle regardless of the material powder being used. You can re-use up to 50% of the un sintered metal powder, last time I checked, maybe more than 50% now, Im not sure if you can use 100% of un sintered plastic and TPU powder.
I used TPU filament in my prints and I get a reasonable finish , but Piet is right, you sometimes get rough layer lines, Im on my way next week to see a new printer that supposedly doesn't do this.
The red and green stack are a bunch of spinnaker halyard donuts, the bigger ones are 120mm OD and 25mm thick, they take 30 odd hours to print, I have the G code that I have written just about right so they come out almost perfect, but Im not happy with them yet. The second is something for my Jota ( orange of course! ), that the seat sits on and has cables routed through it. The bottom, side you see is a really good finish, the other side not so, it looks like a bloody dogs breakfast.
anyway, I hope this info is of use.
make sure to choose SLS printing, and then they will give you the price straight away based on how many you want and what lead time you need it in.
to give you an idea of how SLS printing works, I show a lot of people this clip, its a Bugatti brake calliper being printed, there is a lot of post-production work to get it looking nice, but you could never machine anything with as little waste, or use as little time, and have a similar product.
I used TPU filament in my prints and I get a reasonable finish , but Piet is right, you sometimes get rough layer lines, Im on my way next week to see a new printer that supposedly doesn't do this.
The red and green stack are a bunch of spinnaker halyard donuts, the bigger ones are 120mm OD and 25mm thick, they take 30 odd hours to print, I have the G code that I have written just about right so they come out almost perfect, but Im not happy with them yet. The second is something for my Jota ( orange of course! ), that the seat sits on and has cables routed through it. The bottom, side you see is a really good finish, the other side not so, it looks like a bloody dogs breakfast.
anyway, I hope this info is of use.
