laverda 1200 nd-engine

R

rully

New member
Location
germany
hello,

just got the "bottom-half" of my 1200-engine back (crankshaft rectified, new bearings, upgraded conrods...)
now, work in progress, reassembling the rest....

2 questions:
--  the bolt ("normal" thread, right hand "close", left hand "loose") that is securing the magneto-rotor of the ND-generator at the right end of the crank....
is to be secured by some loctite?
needs how much torque to be fixed?
--  the big freewheel of the starter-clutch-assembly behind the magneto-rotor....once mounted everything, I can move this freewheel in axial direction for about 2 mm /  means it has got some axial play.
that`s ok/normal?
(I didn?t ommit the spacer between the outer right side crank-bearing  :D )


any suggestions appreciated....


thanks, tanti saluti


rully
 
Welcome Rully!

Sounds like a nice project, post some photos if you can, everyone loves to see them.

In answer to your questions;
1. No loctite is required on the alternator rotor bolt.  The taper should be clean and free of any damage, the factory manual states a torque of 52-59ft-lb which is 70-80Nm.  there is a counter-hold tool to prevent the crank from rotating, basically this is a big 'hook spanner' which goes into a hole in the outside of the rotor.  I made myself an improvised one myself, but you should lock the rotor on the alternator side rather than twisting through the crankshaft/primary/gearbox.
Many people might say just to use a rattle gun and some have no doubt done this without problem, but the torque wrench and counter hold tool is the surest way to get it right.

2. The freewheel does move about a little at the outside, but if in doubt it is just a normal needle roller bearing and you just need to press it out and press the new one in.  It sounds like you have the spacer between it and the bearing, but there is also a small tag that goes into the crankcase near the top which guides the freewheel.  Do you have that?  The convex side should face the freewheel.

Cheers
Steve

 
This is from the RGS manual, which shares many components with the 1200-nd.  Note they are in ft-lbs.  Do not use these cylinder head torque figures, they are too high.  Most folks seem to have settled on 25ft-lbs these days.  Make sure you do not torque the cam studs (m8) to any more than 18ft-lb.

 
Might be better for you...



In 30+ years of using this book I never noticed before that the english version is in ft-lb and the Italian is in Nm.  I prefer to think in Nm these days so this is a find.  :)
 
The factory torque figure for the M9 head studs is far too ambitious imho.  The bearing blocks have no choice but to crumble under the pressure.  Even aftermarket billet bearing blocks have a hard time standing up to that.  I've found 32-35Nm to be ample, with no issues over very long periods.

piet
 
we have all done it Marnix,

what I do know is whenever there is the opportunity, I Timecert all 12 of those 9mm studs, and having also learned how to do that "the hard way" they are drilled and tapped then inserted on a mill table. The studs are so long that it is just too easy to not get them straight if done by hand.

CLEM

ps my sincere thanks to you for your recent help.
 
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