Laverda 750 SFC 1974 replica
- Thread starter ludiluka
- Start date
You can use just about any old-school coils from the jap bikes littering the junk yards. The ignition runs at 1/2 engine speed, no great effort required from the coils if you fit 2 singles(about half the size of the original Bosch). Go for TEK or Nippon Denso, all good quality stuff, rarely goes wrong.
Of course you could use a double coil, fires twice as often as the single and will have a wasted spark.
piet
Of course you could use a double coil, fires twice as often as the single and will have a wasted spark.
piet
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
A few days ago, I ordered some dirt cheap coils from China. It'll be interesting to see if they work, and if they do, how long they last. Not expecting much, but for about $10 each they're worth a try. What could possibly go wrong? 
I'd suggest you stay away from Dyna. This is only my personal opinion, but I've come to the conclusion that Dyna stuff is questionable value for money.
For the prices they charge you'd expect their gear to last forever, but I'm aware of Dyna ignitions and coils that have failed after not very long in service. One example is bloke I know who bought a Dyna coil kit for his Kawasaki Z1300. It comprised 3 x double Dyna coils, HT leads and plug caps. Two of the coils failed within a year. He replaced them with used TEC coils from ebay and had no further problems.
As another example, I'm not impressed with the Dyna electronic ignition on my Guzzi. It was on the bike when I bought it, and they're still available from various suppliers. It's actually the second Dyna the bike has had because the smoke leaked out of the first one.
It does the job of driving the coils but there are a couple of things I don't like about. Firstly, it's a very simple device with no advance map or any other programmable inputs (uses the Guzzi's original mechanical advance). Secondly, it energises the coils when the ignition is switched on. So if you leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds or so the coils get bloody hot. Consequences could be cooked ignition module, cooked coils, a flat battery, or all three. It's possible that's what killed the first Dyna ignition on the bike because one of the coils was also replaced. The Dyna ignition is basically just an amplifier, and a dumb one at that.
I could accept those limitations if they were reflected in the price, but they're not, because it costs around $300. You can buy a Jaycar kit for $20 that'll do the same job. As a comparison, Ignitech's fully programmable intelligent ignition is about half the price of the Dyna POS. Ignitech (and pretty much any other half decent electronic ignition) won't energise the coils until the engine cranks over.
I'd suggest you stay away from Dyna. This is only my personal opinion, but I've come to the conclusion that Dyna stuff is questionable value for money.
For the prices they charge you'd expect their gear to last forever, but I'm aware of Dyna ignitions and coils that have failed after not very long in service. One example is bloke I know who bought a Dyna coil kit for his Kawasaki Z1300. It comprised 3 x double Dyna coils, HT leads and plug caps. Two of the coils failed within a year. He replaced them with used TEC coils from ebay and had no further problems.
As another example, I'm not impressed with the Dyna electronic ignition on my Guzzi. It was on the bike when I bought it, and they're still available from various suppliers. It's actually the second Dyna the bike has had because the smoke leaked out of the first one.
It does the job of driving the coils but there are a couple of things I don't like about. Firstly, it's a very simple device with no advance map or any other programmable inputs (uses the Guzzi's original mechanical advance). Secondly, it energises the coils when the ignition is switched on. So if you leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds or so the coils get bloody hot. Consequences could be cooked ignition module, cooked coils, a flat battery, or all three. It's possible that's what killed the first Dyna ignition on the bike because one of the coils was also replaced. The Dyna ignition is basically just an amplifier, and a dumb one at that.
I could accept those limitations if they were reflected in the price, but they're not, because it costs around $300. You can buy a Jaycar kit for $20 that'll do the same job. As a comparison, Ignitech's fully programmable intelligent ignition is about half the price of the Dyna POS. Ignitech (and pretty much any other half decent electronic ignition) won't energise the coils until the engine cranks over.
Me again >
I want to know how do you guys figure it out where to drill holes on front fairing so that it sits in correct place? I can figure it out on the front but i don't know about rear mounts because i can slide front fairing bracket backward and forwards? Does anybody have some measurements of original sfc ?? Or do you mount fairing by eye?
I will post some pics tomorrow how it is coming together.
I want to know how do you guys figure it out where to drill holes on front fairing so that it sits in correct place? I can figure it out on the front but i don't know about rear mounts because i can slide front fairing bracket backward and forwards? Does anybody have some measurements of original sfc ?? Or do you mount fairing by eye?
I will post some pics tomorrow how it is coming together.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
I mounted my (SFC-style) fairing on home-made brackets. I did it by guesswork, posted pictures on here, got ridiculed for getting it too far forward and too high at the front :-[
I shortened the front bracket to bring the fairing further back. Then epoxied up the holes I had drilled in the fairing and drilled some more in different locations to lower the nose. Last time I posted pictures, nobody criticised the fairing but I was told the bike was too high at the front, or low at the rear. It's a tough crowd here.
I shortened the front bracket to bring the fairing further back. Then epoxied up the holes I had drilled in the fairing and drilled some more in different locations to lower the nose. Last time I posted pictures, nobody criticised the fairing but I was told the bike was too high at the front, or low at the rear. It's a tough crowd here.
Laverda SF
Hero member
Just toggle in a hidden Ignition breaker if you you don't want a thief to steal your ride. WTF is a KEY.
What really gets me is why we should even bother to engage an atmtiquated 46 year old Electrial System other then for a need to ride a Breganze,
What really gets me is why we should even bother to engage an atmtiquated 46 year old Electrial System other then for a need to ride a Breganze,
chris78jota
Senior member
- Location
- England
Looking Good Luka, well done.
You are a couple of stages ahead of where I am with my 3C project, so watching yours with interest
I plan to use two blocks of wood, the same thickness as a silentblock, without the 6mm studs, so I can move the fairing about to find the right position before I drill any holes ???
Who supplied the fairing? I am looking for a fibreglass one of similar weight/strength to an original without being too expensive
Chris
You are a couple of stages ahead of where I am with my 3C project, so watching yours with interest
I plan to use two blocks of wood, the same thickness as a silentblock, without the 6mm studs, so I can move the fairing about to find the right position before I drill any holes ???
Who supplied the fairing? I am looking for a fibreglass one of similar weight/strength to an original without being too expensive
Chris
Rob
Hero member
- Location
- Midlands, UK
The holes for the front mounting bracket should sit equidistant above & below a centre line through the headlight aperture. I have found that some pattern fairings don't readily want to sit on the bracket in that position, which can result in stress cracking.
Once those holes are located, the fairing ears can be relatively easily positioned...that bracket fits where it touches! Good plan to remove the silentblocks, Chris. The main issue is to watch out for equal spacing either side of the fuel tank.
Here's a picture of the rear bracket mounting...I don't quite understand how you can alter its position. Given the variation of pattern fairing shapes, I'd take the measurement as a guide only.
The real fun starts when you try to position and fix the screen
Once those holes are located, the fairing ears can be relatively easily positioned...that bracket fits where it touches! Good plan to remove the silentblocks, Chris. The main issue is to watch out for equal spacing either side of the fuel tank.
Here's a picture of the rear bracket mounting...I don't quite understand how you can alter its position. Given the variation of pattern fairing shapes, I'd take the measurement as a guide only.
The real fun starts when you try to position and fix the screen
Attachments
Just out of workshop
I use blocks of wood as you suggested. Only thing that was bothering me was the measurement that Rob taken so thanks for that you was spot on
I order all of my fairings from bobavukomanovic@yahoo.com
Here are pictures of fairing mounted forever is it good enough? what do you guys think? i was looking some pictures,...
Slip ons are mounted just for look so they are not equal on both sides
I use blocks of wood as you suggested. Only thing that was bothering me was the measurement that Rob taken so thanks for that you was spot on
I order all of my fairings from bobavukomanovic@yahoo.com
Here are pictures of fairing mounted forever
is it good enough? what do you guys think? i was looking some pictures,...Slip ons are mounted just for look so they are not equal on both sides
Laverda SF
Hero member
Is that a Kitchen table?
Looks great to me,want some painful fun try mounting a full fairing,you cannot see where the holes are on the mounts.I just adjusted the clip ons on my Pantah.Got them as high as possible and just where I wanted them.And then I though I would turn the headlight on,its switch then would touch the fairing at full lock,getting it all squared away isn't easy
Rob
Hero member
- Location
- Midlands, UK
Here are pictures of fairing mounted forever
Yes, it looks as though the fairing is sitting at the right angle, based on my '74 bike. Good job! You'll find pictures of some bikes that have a steeper slope on the edge where the screen fits, you'll need Marnix to give an opinion as to why that is. I try to make sure everything fits without being forced into a particular position.
You might want to check that there is clearance for your hand on the clip-on at full lock - it can catch the top edge. It may be necessary to make the cut out a bit bigger there - always better to do this before painting.
Yes i noticed that is sits sideways i already repair that I checked clip-ons at full lock and i have enough room for my hand.
I painted rims today. I know that they aren't correct (i have them laying around workshop) but they will do the job until i will have enough money for correct rims.
Anyone recognize rims and from what bike are they?
I also need photo of regulator mount and if possible some measurements.
I checked clip-ons at full lock and i have enough room for my hand.I painted rims today. I know that they aren't correct (i have them laying around workshop) but they will do the job until i will have enough money for correct rims.
Anyone recognize rims and from what bike are they?
I also need photo of regulator mount and if possible some measurements.
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
Look like the GSX-R 1100 or 750 wheels (GU74C or GR75A or so?), if they are not Oscam's...
lavgert
Hero member
- Location
- Vienna, Austria
... they look like Oscams - Laverda 1000 SFC - Ducati Paso or 750 F1!
Ciao, Gert
Ciao, Gert
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
Duc :-X Paso I reckon.