Laverda drum connecting rod

[smlav]

Has anyone fitted the connecting rod supplied by Andy.W which has a clockwise end and anti-clockwise at the other end? It should make it much easier to get both shoes biting at the same time, and I’m interested in feedback.

Product Details

Laverda Racing Team Konstanz - das Laverda-Paradies

www.laverda-paradies.de

Thanks
Sean

 

[Tippie]

That would be so that when you turn the rod one way both the forks (Andy's term) it threads into (with matching opposite direction threads), that connect to the brake pivot shaft, will either go out together or in together.

 

[smlav]

Yes, that’s the idea as I understand it. Seems a giod solution to a PITA task if it works. Not cheap.
Sean

 

[sfcpiet]

FWIW, I've modified my gear and brake lever linkages in this manner. That allows me to simply loosen the lock nuts and dial in the lever position I require instead of removing at least one of the rose joints from a lever. Very handy for setting up a bike for different riders. Of course a LH threaded rose joint is required for one rod end.

The drum brake linkage usually only needs to be set once when installing new shoes. I do this with the wheel/brake assembly on an axle clamped vertically in a vice. The long brake arm is the "reference", the rod is adjusted to suit the short arm with both arms hard up against the drum (actuated by a 13mm spanner each). None of this is of any relevance if the brake plate is not centralised when refitting to the bike!

Extremely helpfull to eliminate ALL slop in the assembly beforehand, otherwise the adjusting process can cause a certain amount of hair-pulling. I generally ream the clevis and brake arms and make new pins to suit. LH/RH rod method might be a snazzy show-puller in this application, but isn't worth the trouble imho. Base line adjustment shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes.

If you'd make your own clevis on a small scale, you'll quickly realise where the asking price arises.

piet

 

[smlav]

Thanks Piet, I fitted new links and shoes and had the wheel on and off trying to get a decent bite out of th3 SF1 brake, but failed. In the end, for the trip I’m on to Spain, I borrowed the front brake from my GTL which works well. Chatting to someone I was told about Andy Andy’s rod with anti clockwise end and thought it might make set up easier. Making my own clevis is outside my skill set.
Sean

 

[sfcpiet]

Thanks Piet, I fitted new links and shoes and had the wheel on and off trying to get a decent bite out of th3 SF1 brake, but failed. In the end, for the trip I’m on to Spain, I borrowed the front brake from my GTL which works well. Chatting to someone I was told about Andy Andy’s rod with anti clockwise end and thought it might make set up easier. Making my own clevis is outside my skill set.
Sean

If you fitted a set of those generally available shoes you'll be getting nowhere very slowly... these take ages to bed in and when they eventually do, they end up with lousy lever geometry with most of the cable adjustment used up. Guess they're still better than most some 50-year-old original linings though.

Want decent performance from your drums? Gotta bite the bullet and go to town on them, see "brake re-lining" thread. Expensive and takes quite a bit of effort, but will de-bunk the "lousy Laverda drum brake" myth.

piet

 

[Vince]

I have the same issue with my rear set gear lever; you cannot just turn the rod. The ends must be adjusted individually to adjust the gear lever height. It's a bit annoying. To get close to right, I needed to cut the rod to length and drill and tap the internal thread deeper as well.

 

[piranha-bro2]

I have the same issue with my rear set gear lever; you cannot just turn the rod. The ends must be adjusted individually to adjust the gear lever height. It's a bit annoying. To get close to right, I needed to cut the rod to length and drill and tap the internal thread deeper as well.

but once you get it right you never need to touch it again. I'm more concerned with good angular setup on both lever ends, ie each at 90 degrees to the axis in the neutral position. Seen many setups where one lever will be angled at 60 or 120 degrees, meaning lever travel at the foot in one direction will be about double what it is in the opposite direction. Throw in the whole left-right crossover biz and you can double the trouble!!

 

[Vince]

Get that angle wrong, and the link can flip very easily. My Pantah rearsets had to be cut off and welded from facing down to up to clear its exhaust. That drilling and taping of the 3c rearset connecting rod was done by Marty on his tiny lathe. It must have been case-hardened tool steel; it was surprisingly crazy hard to drill.

 

[smlav]

I have a set of new shoes from Wolfgang in my GTL brake and it works well. My trouble was with the SF1 brake, neither the Wolfgang shoes or OE shoes with new linings (Saftek) gave good bite. All new links and pins. Before I had to cone away, and swapped to the GTL brake, I noticed some lateral play in the pon through bronze bush. So when I get home I’ll fit new bushes, which means all moving parts will be new. And I’ll give one of those anti clockwise rods a try, see how it goes and report back. I’m not a Lav drum denigrator, I did 40k + miles on my GTL back in the 80s and was more than happy. My issue is the SF1 has been through multiple owners before me, and I know it’s not braking as well as it is capable of.

Sean

 

[smlav]

More on the drum brake. I'm home from Spanish trip now and want to start on sorting the original drum. How do I get the connecting rod out from the back plate? That's the rod which has the fork at each end and the rod goes through a tunnel in the back plate, and there's some sort of spring in there. A quick look and I can't see an obvious way to get that rod and spring out.

thanks
Sean

 

[Paul Marx]

More on the drum brake. I'm home from Spanish trip now and want to start on sorting the original drum. How do I get the connecting rod out from the back plate? That's the rod which has the fork at each end and the rod goes through a tunnel in the back plate, and there's some sort of spring in there. A quick look and I can't see an obvious way to get that rod and spring out.

thanks
Sean

Should simply slide out. Maybe a subtle wallop?
Paul

 

[The Sock]

Remove clevis pins, loosen locknut, remove clevis, remove locknut, remove washer, job's a goodun.

 

[Paul Marx]

It'll only come put one side because of the spring stop.
Paul

 

[smlav]

Thanks guys, I’ll have at it the weekend
Sean

 

[sfcpiet]

Brakes are THE one component on which "learning by doing" is in no way appropriate.

Don't understand their workings or know how to disassemble? Take them to somebody who does. If possible, look over their shoulder, getting up that morning will become truely worthwhile...

Not only are they critical for your own well-being, but also for those that share the roads with you.

piet, amazed to have felt the need to type this.

 

[smlav]

Brakes are THE one component on which "learning by doing" is in no way appropriate.

Don't understand their workings or know how to disassemble? Take them to somebody who does. If possible, look over their shoulder, getting up that morning will become truely worthwhile...

Not only are they critical for your own well-being, but also for those that share the roads with you.

piet, amazed to have felt the need to

Too late. I’ve done 2k miles having dismantled and rebuilt the brakes - except for the rod. I couldn’t get one of the four brakes I have to choose from to bite good enough. I’d been through your very informative posts about adjusting these brakes, and come to the conclusion that one of the rods with an anti-clockwise end would facilitate with setting up. I intend to replace every component in that brake, and in the process assess the anti-clock rod for set up. Before removing the rod, thought I’d ask about best approach.
Cheers
Sean