Laverda Jota 180 - Primary chain tensioner

[PeteK]

Hi,

Probably being a numpty, but changed the primary chain on the Jota today for the first time. All went well except primary  chain tensioner fell out and for the life of me I can?t see how the spring fits to the tensioner / case.?

Can anyone help please?

Pete K

 

[Haggis]

Spring rounded end goes to engine case.
Open ends end go up through the hole, to the top of the tensioner.
Spring pushes tensioner against the adjuster bolt (not the chain).

HTH

Haggis.

Edit

Like this - easier with a pic 
http://www.laverda.ca/1200/1200clutch.htm

 

[PeteK]

Thanks Haggis,

Got it. Looks like it?s better to assemble the tensioner in the outer case, then enter the pin into the crankcase during assembly..


Pete K

Sorry, I posted in the wrong place. Thanks for spotting it.

 

[andre g]

Yes the tensioner in the outer case and the tensionind screw just mounted but not screwed in. When putting the outer case in place sometimes lower part of the chain (s) have to be lifted by a screw driver in order to step above the tensioner.
Andre

 

[sfcpiet]

Tensioner is easier to fit if the engine is upside-down with the chain drooping a bit...

piet (bolt)

 

[carlitox33]

Following up on the original post, I believe I?m getting rattly engine noises from what I believe is my inability to install the tensioner correctly.

Reading the post, and trying, I?ve found it?s a lot easier to install the tensor on the cover, with the bolt in its place.

As a matter of fact, if you install the bolt THROUGH the "spring" the entire conumdrum seems to hold by itself.

Is this the right way, or should the spring just "push" against the bolt? If this is the case, it?s a lot more difficult to get aligned the head of the regulating bolt with the "hole" for it.



Thank you!

 

[sfcpiet]

Following up on the original post, I believe I?m getting rattly engine noises from what I believe is my inability to install the tensioner correctly.

Reading the post, and trying, I?ve found it?s a lot easier to install the tensor on the cover, with the bolt in its place.

As a matter of fact, if you install the bolt THROUGH the "spring" the entire conumdrum seems to hold by itself.

Is this the right way, or should the spring just "push" against the bolt? If this is the case, it?s a lot more difficult to get aligned the head of the regulating bolt with the "hole" for it.

Thank you!

No.

When installing the cover, the adjuster screw should not be exerting any pressure at all on the tensioner, otherwise it won't pass past the chain.  The tensioner shoe should be resting against the case.  The tensioner axle has a chamfered and a tapered end.  The end with the small chamfer fits into the cover,  the taper aids insertion of the axle into the bore of the case.

The prongs of the springs go into the hole in the tensioner and should point "forwards" on top of the tensioner shoe.  The spring loops under the pivot and the rounded end rests on the cover.  It really doesn't fit in any other orientation.  Check the diagram in Haggis' post.

piet

 

[andre g]

If the cover plate will not slip in easily it may be necessary to help the chain to climbe on the tensioner by pushing the chain from the bottom with a srew driver inserting it between the cover plate and the engine case.

 

[carlitox33]

The tensioner axle has a chamfered and a tapered end.  The end with the small chamfer fits into the cover,  the taper aids insertion of the axle into the bore of the case.

This is the key. Thank you Piet. Also good suggestion about pushing the chain with the screwdriver.

 

[carlitox33]

Ok. Looks like I finally got it...

By the way; the spring is really strong. The tensioner axle tends to come out of the housing due to the force.

Will try fitting it soon.

Cheers

 

[CLEMTOG]

are you working on a very early triple, with NO DIMPLE on the outside of the cover for the much more commonly used longer tensioner axle?
if you are, then no wonder its a fiddle, that is why they changed it on everything after 73.

CLEM

 

[carlitox33]

are you working on a very early triple, with NO DIMPLE on the outside of the cover for the much more commonly used longer tensioner axle?
if you are, then no wonder its a fiddle, that is why they changed it on everything after 73.

CLEM

I am working on a standard 1980 1200. I find it fiddly. Don?t want to imagine how much more difficult will the older models be!

 

[chrisk]

Not wanting to sound like a smart-arse, but have you taken the slack off the adjuster bolt.
Your pictures show it screwed in.

Which is probably why the whole lot is trying to fall to bits.