Laverda Motogadget

michipons

Hero member
Hi All!!
I am starting what it might be my last Laverda restorationā€¦šŸ¤” or at least for my private collection.
Is a 1200CL.
I have to re-do the electrics completely as I did with all my previous bikes.
I will install the Redax ignition with alternator and regulator.
I also use a relƩ, to provide direct 12v from the batery to the ignition. That means that I redesign completely all cables.
I was thinking to take advantage and remove all conections from inside the headlight.
I have 2 options:

- use standard connections under the seat, like the SF3
- go step forward and use some electronic modules like Motogadget… any experience on that?? Does it work well? Do I safe complexity and cable connections?

Regards,
Miguel
 
Hi Miguel,

I haven't installed the Motogadget (or similar units) yet. In theory, they can help reduce cabling a lot. How ever, you will need some additional relays still, as f.e. the starter circuit does need a stronger one than the box can deliver I think etc.

Grant has done some installations I think and some others, too. For sure they will tell you (not sure though if Grant is back on the forum, but you might ask him via facebook).
Regarding the relay for the ignition, I am not sure if this was a one-time failure or if it is generally no good idea, but I know that a friend of mine tried that and the relay gave up just a few rounds on the SPA-circuit. He removed it from the wiring and went on without it faultlessly. That was a 120°, maybe something to do with the vibrations?!?
 
Hi Miguel,

I haven't installed the Motogadget (or similar units) yet. In theory, they can help reduce cabling a lot. How ever, you will need some additional relays still, as f.e. the starter circuit does need a stronger one than the box can deliver I think etc.

Grant has done some installations I think and some others, too. For sure they will tell you (not sure though if Grant is back on the forum, but you might ask him via facebook).
Regarding the relay for the ignition, I am not sure if this was a one-time failure or if it is generally no good idea, but I know that a friend of mine tried that and the relay gave up just a few rounds on the SPA-circuit. He removed it from the wiring and went on without it faultlessly. That was a 120°, maybe something to do with the vibrations?!?
I seem to remember Grant dropping the Motogadget thing as unreliable. I might be wrong ask him.
The more relays you have, the more potential problems you have.

Paul
 
The more relays you have, the more potential problems you have.

Paul
Despite the fact that relays are generally used to avoid potential problems. I myself use relays to avoid all the power the bike uses from going through the keyed ignition switch, and the headlight power going through the handlebar switch.
Miguel, unfortunately there are people who swear by the Motogadget thing and others that hate them, might be a coin toss issue.
 
The idea of it is to avoid that the 12V go through the right handle bar switch. Instead of that, the positive from kill switch activates/deactivates the rele, then the whole ignition is feed with real 12V directly from the battery.
I am not an expert, but an expert told me to do so, so I did. Until now, the bike worked extremely perfect. I don’t know if this is a contributing factor or not…?
I am going to pay a visit to Todd, he installed the Motogadget system, I guess best is to see it with my eyes!😁
 
I seem to remember Grant dropping the Motogadget thing as unreliable. I might be wrong ask him.
The more relays you have, the more potential problems you have.

Paul
If I remember correctly, it wasn't the reliability but the fact that he had to install some additional relays and did not find it saving to much of the cabling (at least not if you wire it traditionally; there is a little device called mo.button that can reduce the necessary wiring a lot, but you then need buttons to operate it, which Grant also did not like). And in addition, it costs some hundred bugs, which - I think - Grant did not find to pay off. I might remember wrong though.
 
My first bike mod was adding 2 Fram horns to a 1975 RD 250 Yamaha as I was fully sick of people in cars changing lanes into me. Well, that didn't go well, all that current through the horn button ended with a softened and melted horn button spring. Relays are a good thing.
 
That's absolutely possible, it does not safe much of the wiring though then. However, I have a central electronic box in my Jota since 22 years; not as fancy as the m-unit though... it was built by a friend of mine but works - with the exception of the horn relay, which I replaced by an external one - since 22 years faultlessly.

I love the features the m-unit is showing and am considering to use it on a built I yet have to do (the motoplast Laverda). We'll see if I can make it some day...
 
I run the moto gadget on my Morini 500, and have not had a problem with it.
I have the M unit blue on the Jota, its super easy to install , it has to be for a nonce like me to make head or tail of it. On the Jota, I have isolated it really well with silent blocks to keep as much vibration away from it as possible.

I can't comment on keeping original switch blocks for indicators horns and lights etc as i haven't kept mine , all the system on the Jota and the Morini is moto gadget the whole way through, which allows for fine gauge wires to be used as supplied by moto gadget.

You can see how simple it is , the wiring loom for the switch gear and lights etc in picture 3 is not a huge bundle, clearly it gets covered when finished.

I am using a Lithium ion battery , along with reg/rec from ricks motorsport electrics in the US, which is specific to Lithium battery use, thae battery is in the picture below , prices for that one arent for the faint hearted. The starter solenoid I bought from revival cycles in Texas, Tippie gave me some good comments on this. It remains to be seen how long it lasts but i put in a kill switch inline with the solenoid, so if it welds on during a start, I can cut the power with the kill switch.

I think any problems encountered in the past by people may be because they mix existing classic bike electrical systems with original switch gear and lights etc. Thats a very general comment, from all the people I have talked to about using the system, I have had very good comments about peoples experiences on ditching old electronics and using the complete set up from scratch, the ones that had some concerns or had some minor bad experiences had some sort of a hybrid installation. Clearly for those that value an original bike, this is not the answer.
 

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My first bike mod was adding 2 Fram horns to a 1975 RD 250 Yamaha as I was fully sick of people in cars changing lanes into me. Well, that didn't go well, all that current through the horn button ended with a softened and melted horn button spring. Relays are a good thing.
Fiamms on the Laverda have a relay, ex factory.

Paul
 
well, I persoannly have never heard of a 1200CL, I do remember seeing one advertised and thinking "that cant be right, can it?"
I wonder if its the same bike? so 1200 CL please elaborate
CLEM
 
Grant has done some installations I think and some others, too. For sure they will tell you (not sure though if Grant is back on the forum, but you might ask him via facebook).

As far as Grant's bike (the one he calls POP) is concerned, I can fill you in on a few details. I hope he doesn't mind me sharing some of his technical details.

I designed the wiring system for his bike back in 2010, and yes, it uses a Motogadget M-Unit as the heart of the system. As far as I'm aware, it's still wired that way, although he could have made some minor changes.

Basically, the M-Unit box is just a bunch of electronic relays all built into one unit. Its main advantage is that all the power circuits go through the box. It has a heavy power feed cable from the battery to the box and it supplies power to all the electrical loads on the bike. Those loads include lighting, horn, indicators, ignition, starter relay, a couple of auxiliary circuits and perhaps one or two things I haven't thought of. It also eliminates the need for fuses because each output is protected by an auto-reclosing circuit breaker. Auto-reclosing means the CB will automatically reinstate power to the circuit when the fault is rectified.

It does remove all the jumble of wires from the headlight shell. Well, most of them anyway. Obviously you still need wires going to the headlight itself and the indicators.

A significant advantage of the unit is that all the electrical loads go through the M-Unit box, so all the heavy(ish) load carrying cables run from there to the various loads. The cables that tell the M-Unit what to do (inputs from the handlebar switches, etc) can be light comms cable like telephone wire. So there's no big thick wiring harnesses jammed into the handlebars or terminating at rows of connector blocks inside the headlight. You could do all the switching functions with a CAT5 telephone cable to each of the handlebar switch blocks. The handlebar switches only have to handle milliamp loads, so their contacts will pretty much last forever, at least until they get dirt or corrosion in them. No more overheated switch contacts or melted wires in the switch harnesses.

On Grant's bike, the M-Unit didn't allow for headlights to be switched off, just toggled between high and low beam (headlights on all the time is a requirement of most countries). Grant wanted to be able to switch his headlight off, so it needed a couple of extra relays external to the M-Unit to achieve that.

His M-Unit was a 2010 model. The units on sale now have evolved some additional features and are now called "mo.unit". They have a built-in alarm system and a bunch of other smart functions. They can also connect your smartphone via bluetooth and the associated phone App can do a whole lot of stuff like keyless ignition, alarm monitoring, event logging, etc. Too much to list here, so go to their website for more info.

I still don't think they let you switch the headlights off though.

I could upload a copy of Grant's wiring diagram to the library if anyone is interested. It has a few quirks requested by Grant (such as the ability to switch off the headlights) and he used some late model Suzuki handlebar switches, Sachse ignition, Shindengen RR, etc. I don't think he'll mind me sharing it for the benefit of the community. I did it for him as a favour (not a paid consultancy), so I reckon I retain the intellectual property rights anyway.
 
Are you sure? The starter relay has 75A and as far as I remember, the
m-unit's built-in relay has 30A. So, would be good for e.g. Fiamm horns.

The Motogaget M-Unit only supplies power to the solenoid coil in the starter relay. The 75A rating of the starter relay refers to the starter motor energising contacts. The relay solenoid coil only pulls a few amps. The 30A switching capacity of the M-Unit is more than adequate. All it's doing is taking over the job of the scrawny little contacts in the starter button (probably rated at about 10A on a good day).

BTW, I just uploaded the wiring diagram for Grant's M-Unit equipped bike to the forum library.
 
The local wiring bloke, Phil The Wire added those electronic fuses to my bike when he built a completely new wiring harness for it about 15 years ago. Other than a loose nut on the ignition connection once, they have worked well. On occasion when the bike does act up I get suspicious that they are the fault but it's usually an earth connection loose around the battery. BTW I heard he is doing a couple of harnesses for NSW club blokes this week.
 
You mean like this, circa 2005, included a smd "flasher" control for the left and right side blinkers/flashers, ie no can flasher. The big arse ( controlled by ignition switch ) relay feed all the downstream relays, all the jumble connections were done by teflon small gauge wire under the pcb, could be reconfigured as required. Oh and it had the "GEN" dual window battery voltage monitor and lamp drive incorporated ( same as flasher smd under the pcb, can see both those on the copper side shadow ). j
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