Laverda side stand

Vince said:
There are plenty of videos showing tiny women using the best technic for lifting full-size Harleys that weigh almost twice that of Laverdas. There is even a kit of broken down tubes that you can use on your own that attached to the frame and footpegs of fully-loaded big BMW or other full-size Adventure bikes that use snap-together levers so that one person can lift them onto their wheels. Handy if you're on your own and topple over in the middle of nowhere.
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I looked but couldn't find a vid of a tiny woman over 70 lifting a full dress Harley.

:confused:

Paul
 
Only time I couldn't pick my Jota up on my own was when it fell over on a steep bend in a gravel road. It was loose gravel like riding on ball bearings so I was going ultra slow - walking pace. I put my foot down to steady the bike and my boot slid on the loose gravel. I laid the bike down gently so no damage, but it ended up lying down a 10° slope with the tank towards the bottom, dripping petrol. With the slippery loose ball-bearing gravel I couldn't get enough purchase with my feet to lift the bike. Even if I could get my feet on something solid I dunno whether I could have lifted it from that inverted position anyway. I was trying to figure out if I could get the tank off (not easy when the bike is lying down) when a passer-by stopped and helped me.
 
Here is a typical one, yes it's firm ground and just on its crash bars. And yes I have been upsidedown on steep hills and could nearly lift my 120kg 250 Husky in that kind of terrain but that's not a typical Laverda spot to fall over.
 
I once stopped in the dark and rain only to find I was on a huge Diesel patch, slipped and fell as soon as I put weight on my foot. Had to use a tow rope to drag the bike off the patch before we could lift it, it looked a like a slapstick movie because it was like doing it on frozen lake.
 
Nice enough vid, but these "big bikes'' all seem to have a lower center of gravity.
Don't know about you guys but my Jota doesn't have crash bars and panniers.:eek:
 
Hi,
today i realized my solution in sidestand enginering. I took the Kawa ZXR 1100 sidestand and made a plate which is fixed to the frame with only one skrew.
The sidestand is more attached to the back, so the main stand is still fully usable.
It works out fine. Next step is to attach the switch and connect it to the ignition as a safety feature.
 

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Corn said:
Hi,
today i realized my solution in sidestand enginering. I took the Kawa ZXR 1100 sidestand and made a plate which is fixed to the frame with only one skrew.
The sidestand is more attached to the back, so the main stand is still fully usable.
It works out fine. Next step is to attach the switch and connect it to the ignition as a safety feature.
Click to expand...
What stops the mounting plate from swivelling around the mounting screw?

Paul
 
Corn,
Why not a plate that takes the screw above as well? As Paul states, what prevents the whole setup to swivel.

Gerald
 
The picture shows how it works. My aim was a sidestand where i don,t have to use the engine mounting and a position where i can still use the main stand as well. I will use it only when travelling. So i want it to be easy removed or attached if necessary.
 

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Corn said:
Hi Gerald, the screw above belongs to the swingarm. This is not an option i guess.
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It is, but you'd need a longer swing arm spindle or drill and tap the spindle to put a second point of fixation for your plate.
The brake pedal screw lug will prevent your plate going back wards at least.
Joe's plate as you know uses the bottom engine mounting as a second plate.

Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
It is, but you'd need a longer swing arm spindle or drill and tap the spindle to put a second point of fixation for your plate.
The brake pedal screw lug will prevent your plate going back wards at least.
Joe's plate as you know uses the bottom engine mounting as a second plate.

Paul
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Yes Paul, but this is a lot of work and effort ... if somebody feels not good about the screw lug, there is still the possebility of a pin which is attached to the plate preventing it to swivel around. This pin could be on the back of the plate and touch the frame and fix the position as well.
I discussed the Joe method with Grant. But as i already said
 
Paul Marx said:
It is, but you'd need a longer swing arm spindle or drill and tap the spindle to put a second point of fixation for your plate.
The brake pedal screw lug will prevent your plate going back wards at least.
Joe's plate as you know uses the bottom engine mounting as a second plate.

Paul
Click to expand...
Yes Paul, but this is a lot of work and effort ... if somebody feels not good about the screw lug, there is still the possebility of a pin which is attached to the plate preventing it to swivel around. This pin could be on the back of the plate and touch the frame and fix the position as well.
I discussed the Joe method with Grant. But as i already said
Corn said:
I didn,t want to touch tue engine mounting
Click to expand...
Ah, the plate i forgot to say is 15mm thick. I hope this will be strong enough.
 
Corn said:
The picture shows how it works. My aim was a sidestand where i don,t have to use the engine mounting and a position where i can still use the main stand as well. I will use it only when travelling. So i want it to be easy removed or attached if necessary.
Click to expand...
Just wondered what model this picture is of .mine looks nothing like yours
 

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Hi Chris, it is the same as yours, but i have the rear sets mounted. So i use the screw where your footpeg is right now.
Brake lever and footpeg moved to the triangel of the frame.
 
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Chrisninja said:
Just wondered what model this picture is of .mine looks nothing like yours
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That, judging by the welding "quality" is a result of a DPO's customisation. Why, will probably remain a mystery.
Photograph, of mine, shows where the brake pedal position adjuster stop was originally welded, yours is 100mm approx. higher.Left Footrest Area.JPG
 
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