Laverda Sport Freni Competizione Mille - Then add lightness.

Hi Vince & Bruce,

Most kind of you Bruce. Was that weight for both the handle and the added helmet lock?
My handle came in at 297 gr, so I suppose yours are with the helmet lock, which gives me another weight saving of some 53 gr.
Total weight saving som far is 21.740 grams.

Both of you:
I tried to describe some of the details of the Öhlins rear dampers, but I'll go in the garage and see if the prints are still there. It's been cleaned with rags a number of times. Dirt weighs.
So, generally speaking, when ordering you must specify the length of the damper you want - they choose a model which is closest to the original length. Fine tuning can be done by moving a thin steel thread like ring up or down in many steps. They then ask for the bikes weight and your weight incl. leathers, helmet and so on. And they ask if you are going to carry a passenger or not; same goes for luggage. Then you can add any other features as you like, if possible to build on to this model. Not all models can be altered.
After a short while, I asked them to built an extra length adjustability on to my set, so length does not affect the springs. This consists of a new lower eye and a bolt plus a blue locknut. Mine was a tad too long after installing them on to the SFC1000, so had them milled a bit. Then perfect.
I do lower the forks front ever so little, compared to standard length, so my inner tubes raise up a little bit more, thereby altering the angle, length etc.
I paid a very reasonable 4200,- Danish Kroner (DKK) or so some years ago. Possibly a bit more. At that time I had spent many hours searching abroad for a set built to spec, and they were nearly double the price, without the extra feature. As I wrote, I ended up with calling the Danish Öhlins importer, F.I. Motorcykler, Finn Ingeman, and had a talk with him, then ordering from hi,. Far cheaper and local to me.
If you want, I'll be happy to call him and ask what he has in stock and what can be done, price etc.
You got to give me some specs as I mentioned in the above: length between eyes not installed, features, spring strength, bike weight, plus you, evt. passenger etc. beforehand.
I tried 3 sets of springs, but found the two too soft for my liking. I want them to match the front and the characteristics of the bike. So ended up with the suggested standard spring from Öhlins, before they spec them. You can order extra springs at a reasonable price at the same time. It's really quick and easy to swap them. Note: on older sets, Öhlins turned them upside down, or maybe owners did. I installed them as per Öhlins.
Chambers are nitrogen filled under high pressure. They don't corrode easy, actually not at all, and stays nice and clean after years. They are totally rebuildable. Internals are highly polished and well valved. The gassing last a long time in my experience.

I'll try to find out numbers and post here, as it's long time ago.
The old bikes had a more upright placement, and are some 18mm shorter or so. I am sure Lothar or someone else will chime in here. Sometimes, and also on my bike, people install wrong dampers, such as the Koni or later Ikon dampers. They are all too short for the SFC1000, which makes the bike ride less optimal.

There are also other good alternatives. Both Lothars German made ones, and also Nitron from the UK and a few more, makes dampers for the SFC1000. In my experience, there is a world of difference between the Marzocchi/Koni/Ikon and the Öhlins, all in good condition.
Mind you, the French Fournales are really well working and is an air damper. Very simple, efficient and very light. I tried them and they work well.

Question: Since my bike had Koni, I'd really like to know the weight of the original Marzocchi Symbol. They were steel, not pure alloy as the Strada that came on the RGS and RGA as well as Corsa. It was also more adjustable than the Strada. All being longer in the body to suit these bikes with it's different frame.

Kind regards,
Jacques
 
Hi Jacques, that's equivalent to $850 oz and unbelievably cheap. I know you said you bought them a few years ago so I reckon they would be more now. BTW I have a set of Symbols on my Pantah, there shorter at 310mm than the Laverda ones and that plastic cap on the remote resiviour disappeared so it's been replaced by an engine freeze plug made in brass I think so a weight probably won't help you. Funnily enough, I emailed your supplier on Sunday about this but haven't heard back yet. Maybe he might be interested in a group buy, who knows. What I would like is a fully adjustable set including ride height for my more vertical shock 3c, the bike is approx 230kg and I am 125kg fully kitted. The spring rate I have now in my Icons is a straight rate 2.6kg per mm custom made and it's very slightly too hard not allowing the use of the last 20mm of shock travel. I am looking for first a comfortable ride using 95% of the travel as well as good controlled damping so both high and low-speed compression and rebound damping need to be adjustable plus piggybacked reservoir. I want to be able to dial out big and small impacts and that does not happen with the Icons I have. BTW standard Laverda length is 362mm so minimally so fade is reduced that length plus 10mm more in ride height adjustments. Do these have those supper sexy spherical mounts top and bottom, my old Husky with Ohlins has and there just fantastic shocks, fully dialled in they absorb just about anything and give massive traction advantages sticking the bike to the road. Hope this can happen.
 
Right Here goes on my experience buying Ohlins shocks. The first set I bought were supplied by a company in the US called Kyle Racing. They are a big retailer of the Swedish product. From memory the pair that I purchased were a fitment for a Kawasaki zircon 1200 , they are the right length and also came fitted with a hydraulic preload adjuster, also adjustable up to 10mm in length. Think that I paid around $1300aud at the time. They are adjustable for compression (3 clicks) and rebound about 14 clicks . Nice shocks and worked well on th Jota for quite a few years👍
Second set I bought from Italy about 18 months ago and they are the top line ohlins twin shock. Obviously a bit more expensive and I think these ended up costing around $2200 after the government took there cut🙁 love fitted these to the Jota and so far they are proving to be a good upgrade over the earlier pair which have found a new home on another project of mine. These shocks have I think 16 clicks of compression and rebound . Preload obviously is infinitely adjustable by treaded collars.
Vince , if you want adjustable hi and low speed compression damping then you won’t find it on the Ohlins. From all the research on shocks that I did I think YSS and Wilbers are the only ones. Could be wrong though😂😂
One thing I do know is that you get what you pay for re quality of ride and damping control , the money that you spend on cheap shocks is a bad investment and if you do your research you will find that a pair of quality shocks is a good investment particularly re our ageing bodies and long days in the saddle. Moral of this story is spend your money on good quality suspension and not on shit stuff .
Tom
 
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The top of the like Nitrons I have fitted to the Q have 16-click high and low speed comp rebound and 24-click rebound adjustment comp. Agre with Tom, you get what you pay for.
 
A small update.

So, I am still working on my Laverda SFC1000, adding features and lightness.
A very long time ago, I decided that I wanted new upper and lower fork yokes. Stiffer and lighter. And one of them days, Breganzane decided to make a set for himself, and asked if someone else were interested. 4 sets were ever made, each set were different to the others, and I came too late to the party, of course. Ggrrr...

Later on, I contacted a few around the globe, and only a company in Italy came back to me with an answer. A total of apprx. 16.000,00 dkk, which is 2300 usd which I think is a bit steep... And they wanted me to ship my original M1r parts to them in Italy. Yeah, right...

A good few years later, I advertised for a set, and low and behold, Tom very kindly came back to me with an offer of his set, that he no longer needed.
So well made and so beautiful, I'd say. Stiffer and lighter.
A genuine thank you to you Tom!
Topside:
1.JPG
Beneath:
3.JPG
Of course I installed them, and a new set of crown bearings and a few other new bits and bobs.
So do they work? Well, yes. Absolutely. Despite my slow driving and octagonal cornering, they definitely feel stiffer and the front end feels more planted.
But what about the weight? That's also a bonus as they weigh less as a pair, than the original Marzocchi, and saves weight. The upper one saves 210 grams, while the lower increases weight with 16 grams. A total weight saving of 194 grams and better performance.

Then later, I approached Heise again, and sometimes it's him calling me, and we talked about the improved pedal setup I use on my bike. He long time ago modified the steel centers of the Jota aluminium pedals (the good old lighter one with a cast "hole"), to adopt two small ball bearings in each pedal, so super light and precise action. But it's steel. So this time round, he made me a set in Titanium, which I like, and they save some more weight and don't rust. The original in steel weighs 64 grams each side, and the new ones in titanium only 40 grams per side. So saving another 48 grams.

Total weight saving is now at 21.984 grams. Getting close to 22 kilo.

Btw, because of the relatively new laws here in Denmark, I had my Laverda tested for sound, with the official complete and correct setup for tarmac, speeds, rp,'s distances and so on, and it is within the limits. So completely road legal (but not on a track...). Nice to know, if I am stopped by those with badges.

Hmm... I have some more bits and bobs at my desk, so maybe I should get some new batteries for the scale and weigh them and install them real soon, only thing is, that it's pouring down outside every day, so I decided to build a Land Rover for a later mountain trip. And I am near finishing a huge carbon tailgate project on my Lotus Esprit, that took nearly 6 years to complete. Of course saving some 25+ kilos.
Oh well, I'll find a couple of sunny hours. As the saying goes: The Sun always shines on a Laverda.

Kind regards,
Jacques
 
Your a man on a mission that's for sure. A lot of weight reduction achieved. Did you figure out the Euro/kg or you don't want to know🙂?
 
A small update.

So, I am still working on my Laverda SFC1000, adding features and lightness.
A very long time ago, I decided that I wanted new upper and lower fork yokes. Stiffer and lighter. And one of them days, Breganzane decided to make a set for himself, and asked if someone else were interested. 4 sets were ever made, each set were different to the others, and I came too late to the party, of course. Ggrrr...

Later on, I contacted a few around the globe, and only a company in Italy came back to me with an answer. A total of apprx. 16.000,00 dkk, which is 2300 usd which I think is a bit steep... And they wanted me to ship my original M1r parts to them in Italy. Yeah, right...

A good few years later, I advertised for a set, and low and behold, Tom very kindly came back to me with an offer of his set, that he no longer needed.
So well made and so beautiful, I'd say. Stiffer and lighter.
A genuine thank you to you Tom!
Topside:
View attachment 90897
Beneath:
View attachment 90898
Of course I installed them, and a new set of crown bearings and a few other new bits and bobs.
So do they work? Well, yes. Absolutely. Despite my slow driving and octagonal cornering, they definitely feel stiffer and the front end feels more planted.
But what about the weight? That's also a bonus as they weigh less as a pair, than the original Marzocchi, and saves weight. The upper one saves 210 grams, while the lower increases weight with 16 grams. A total weight saving of 194 grams and better performance.

Then later, I approached Heise again, and sometimes it's him calling me, and we talked about the improved pedal setup I use on my bike. He long time ago modified the steel centers of the Jota aluminium pedals (the good old lighter one with a cast "hole"), to adopt two small ball bearings in each pedal, so super light and precise action. But it's steel. So this time round, he made me a set in Titanium, which I like, and they save some more weight and don't rust. The original in steel weighs 64 grams each side, and the new ones in titanium only 40 grams per side. So saving another 48 grams.

Total weight saving is now at 21.984 grams. Getting close to 22 kilo.

Btw, because of the relatively new laws here in Denmark, I had my Laverda tested for sound, with the official complete and correct setup for tarmac, speeds, rp,'s distances and so on, and it is within the limits. So completely road legal (but not on a track...). Nice to know, if I am stopped by those with badges.

Hmm... I have some more bits and bobs at my desk, so maybe I should get some new batteries for the scale and weigh them and install them real soon, only thing is, that it's pouring down outside every day, so I decided to build a Land Rover for a later mountain trip. And I am near finishing a huge carbon tailgate project on my Lotus Esprit, that took nearly 6 years to complete. Of course saving some 25+ kilos.
Oh well, I'll find a couple of sunny hours. As the saying goes: The Sun always shines on a Laverda.

Kind regards,
Jacques

Jacques,
you should have in mind that the weak area is the frame to headstock connection and the not well working M1 R Fork. Change to BMW K 1100.
 
Great info, was that Tom from Oz now in Italy for the party and Steve Bs triples. There used to be a bloke in Oz years ago called Frank in South Australia who made triple trees that were adjustable with shims that changed the rake and trail angles, didn't last long. Brilent bits are sadly long gone.
 
Good on you Jacques. It's fun chasing improvements, whether it's weight or other areas. If I were a triple owner I'd definitely be lengthening the head tube and fitting a longer triple clam pivot (in Ti for you of course :)) to reduce the unsupported lower fork section. I think that would improve stiffness more than new clamps - but not necessarily reduce weight. Also doubles as a brace around the crack-prone stress riser in the frame. It's a mod that's been outlined on here previously and a successful one.
 
Hi Jacques .

Se her, fik en god snak med Scott, hans TT1 vejer kun: 170 kg
 

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