Laverda Triple engine blasting

  • Thread starter Thread starter Erivaj
  • Start date Start date
I suppose you'd have to be careful that the crap didn't get blasted into the engine (or whatever) but the video demos look good

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hD-MQdSH9rk[/youtube]
 
S100 for "normal" dirt , leavs protectiv film on surface .

P21S for "extreme " dirt , after washing with this engine loks lik new from factory .
 

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Your products sound the business Romeo.

It's worth pointing out that "sadly" in the uk, the roads are gritted (salt), I imagine this is the same as some other countries, but not all. Unfortunately although it helps bad drivers drive slightly less badly in the snow (maybe 5% crash instead of 10%) it also creates havoc with motorcycles.

When sprinkled on our fish n chips, it helps no end but on Chrome, alloy,mild steel and particularly passivated Zinc  it does immeasureable damage which is hard to rectify.

Rob
 
Once my bike was deliverd from OCT Germany to me on smal open  car trailer in winter . Bike loked disaster after 1500km on salted roads . I washed it first with P21S , then with S100 , then all polished surfaces with Atosol polish wich you have fine tipe also and autosol protectiv liqid after polishing and at the end WD40 wher neded .
2 days job , dirty fingers but bike was like new.

Other problem that i have is , my house is 50m from sea and often i drive on road wich is wet from sea . When salt water came on hot stainles exhoust it recives emidatly smal rust spots , that is reson why i changed all screws for stainles not A2 wish rust wen in tuch with sea but for A4 . On spek whels that Roger made for me rims and hubs are aluminium but spokes and niples are stainles .
 
Hey Remeo, is P21S a wheel cleaning product? I found a Oz distributer in Melbourne and emailed to see if they have an agent in Perth. If I can buy the product I'll give it ago.
Need something that really cleans the sand cast.
 
CLEMTOG said:
<snip> I dont know where to go from here since I dont want to strip the Corsa motor, and that is something that I have been doing a lot of these last twenty five years, so it doesnt fase me.
Click to expand...
Just think of it as patina, Clem  :D. Adding character and value with each passing day  ...

(My philosophy: Time is limited.  So you can ride 'em or clean 'em.  Much better to ride 'em  :D)

Ciao

Craig (Corsa owner)
 
motoddrob said:
Hey Remeo, is P21S a wheel cleaning product? I found a Oz distributer in Melbourne and emailed to see if they have an agent in Perth. If I can buy the product I'll give it ago.
Need something that really cleans the sand cast.
Click to expand...

It clenas sand cast block, cilider , head like new . I use it in shade on cold engine , spray it on sometimes rub it litll bit , leav it for 20-30 min and than wash it with garden water hose no power washer , all sand cast part like new . All deap dirt and insect are washed avay it loks like new from casting .
P21S i use only for engine , S100 fro whole bike and it leavs protective film , whole surface feels like polished it das not atack ruber parts .
 
I've had some good experiences with this stuff, however the stuff needs to be rinsed off quickly after sprayed area is cleaned.
http://www.spraynine.com/product_info.php?cPath=62&products_id=284&osCsid=86d8ca136d063abc659af674c89d4e69

Gerald
 
Clem,

I cleaned my engine up - all by hand.
Yes it was tedious and hard work, but I think the finish looks really good (a sort of battleship grey all over).
I used diesel and scotchbrite scouring pads!
I did find that if I used some of those specialist cleaning agents on the engine the finish was great in some places but dark patches appeared in others. It didn't look nice.
That's why I went the hard work route. At least the finish is consistent.

SimonR
 
thank you Simon, but my God, I just hate the smell of diesel, and even worse THE TASTE,please help me never to have to suck on a diesel pipe or syphon some off again, ,the last time was in 1976 in Africa (this was when most (small trucky) things were petrol and it was not that easy to buy diesel) and I can still taste it just by re-living the memory.
CLEM
 
Hi again,

Today we start stripping my engine.

- Cylinder head cover, no sand
- Clutch cover, no sand
- Inlets/outlets, no sand
- AC Generator housing, I found few sand

One question, How can I remove the AC Generator to check the Starting motor housing? ... I need an special tool?

I open a new topic for this question ...

http://laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,81512.0.html


2011-02-22_16-31-13_804.jpg
 
Erijav

Yep, you need a Laverda flywheel puller, available from the usual sources, sometimes they come up on eBay (especially UK eBay) for a bit less.
I'm not recommending this as an alternative, but I have managed to get the rotors off more than once with a cheap 2 jaw puller, tapping on the puller bolt to shock the tapered fit loose. But I'd call Andy Wagneror OCT  tomorrow if you want to do it right and not risk damage, unless you have a mate locally who'll lend you one.
Don't forget the 32 mm nut is left hand thread and needs a very deep socket, but at least you can buy the socket from an automotive supplier. You'll also need a really good strap wrench to hold the rotor with while you're undoing it (there is an unobtainable Laverda tool to do it). Those are hard to find.

Ken
 
Erijav,
I did a blast of a complete engine that didn't get any grit inside but I was very careful in preparation. I made sure that every opening had much packing inside that had to be pulled outwards to remove any grit that may have passed by the external taping. Having said that I knew of an oil in-frame BSA that was grit blasted and the grit ended up wrecking the engine. I now prefer soda blasting which requires a lot of cleaning afterwards.
Ian
 
Reggie3cl said:
There was an interesting article in a mag a while back about blasting with dry ice.    Used a lot in Germany apparently for environmental reasons.  Seemed to work well, they did an engine in situ - it sort of dried the oily crap off and it blew away.
Click to expand...

Don't know if it's entirely for environmental reasons, Reggie.

The nice thing about it is that it will not harm paintwork if so desired.  It freezes crud solid and the solid CO? chips/pellets blast it off, just like glass beads or grit would.  All that's left to clean up is the crap that is removed from the work piece, the CO? evaporates and helps to further the climate change.... :D

It does work very well, though.  Very quick but it is quite expensive initially, probably breaks even with other methods considering there are no further cleaning measures required.

piet
 
mcnicol said:
Don't forget the 32 mm nut is left hand thread and needs a very deep socket, but at least you can buy the socket from an automotive supplier. You'll also need a really good strap wrench to hold the rotor with while you're undoing it (there is an unobtainable Laverda tool to do it). Those are hard to find.
Click to expand...

Ken,

The outer 32mm nut doesn't require a special socket, it's the inner 36mm nut that holds the generator/starter housing on the crank that needs the deep socket.... ;)

Applied carefully, an angled ring spanner can also do the trick.

piet
 
On the Bevelheaven.com website there is a description of using Simple Green,water and a scrub brush. If followed it works well,the trick really is to not let the Simple Green dry on the aluminum.
 
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