Left hand gearshift conversion - pictures needed

My 3 bikes are BM L/H 1 down 4 up , Motodd R/H 1 up 4 down, SFC750 R/H 1 down 4 down with heel shift. Never have a problem switching between the 3.
My personal favorite is R/H 1 up 4 down.
 
And Rob, your favourite set of varying radius reverse camber multiple blind S bends with a hundred metre dropoff on one side and a sheer cliff face on the other are ... where would that be? :D :D
Not that there's anything like that within a hard day's ride of me either, extreme North Georgia, about 1000 km away :(

Ken
 
Your not wrong there Ken. In WA, once you get to 5th you don't have to change the gears again till you reach your destination and then start changing down, unless I'm on the Motodd in which case I'll be changing up!!!
 
Thanks to all for the good advice.
I think I will leave it as it is for now, and try to remember how I rode the BSAs. (still have an A65 in the cellar, in kit form)
from memory, emergency stop = just stand on everything.
 
Thanks Rob, you've confused me.... up - down - rear pedal down - left - right and and and I'm to old for all that memory reliant stuff! (Now, what was I talking about? Bugger, I've just pissed my pants again, where are my glasses?)

Any more progress shots?



As another point about the left gear change, I shortened the left hand rod end mounting point by 10 mm (new hole drilled for rod end, closer to the shaft). A huge distance reduction in the gear levers stroke, and this also reduced those 'false neutrals' as well.

Fact is, I had a broken ankle at the time, and the long shifts were really painful. Have done the same mod ever since.

Geez it gets uncomfortable when the piss in ya pants temperature drops, got go & get changed!



 
I'll echo Spub and Peit and anyone else who isn't a fan of the crossover.
I've yet to see one that didn't increase the overall throw of the shift lever by 100%, almost guarantees a mis-shift at just the wrong moment (usually in front of a group of Ducati riders).
Don
 
scuderia said:
I'll echo Spub and Peit and anyone else who isn't a fan of the crossover.
I've yet to see one that didn't increase the overall throw of the shift lever by 100%, almost guarantees a mis-shift at just the wrong moment (usually in front of a group of Ducati riders).
Don
Click to expand...
Or running into a 35kph corner,been there before I went to a right shift.
 
scuderia said:
I've yet to see one that didn't increase the overall throw of the shift lever by 100% ...
Click to expand...

You'd better come and have a look at mine then. All slack in the crossover assembly has been eliminated. The throw of the foot lever is adjustable by altering the linkage attachment points, so can actually be reduced if that's what you want.
Result: Nice positive selection, hardly ever a missed gear - and I'm using the correct foot  ;)

Cheers,
Cam
 
Gear shifts should be on the right side not the wrong side!!

Hey Chris, not much in the way of progress apart from some fibreglass bits. About to start playing with carbon again, have new laying up techniques to try for a better finish thanks to Boba. It's a damn expensive learning curve, so far the 2 tanks I've made, one is not too bad but the first is definetly a painter. Some pin holes and a few air bubbles in the surface have spoiled the carbon finish. The next 2 tanks need to be perfect not to mention all the other body bits. Have just finished all the molds.
 
Has anyone ever converted a 500 to RH gearchange?
It would not be too difficult with the factory rearsets....
 
the 82 1200 Mirage I am working on at the moment has the left side gear change crossover done with rear sets, adding yet another linkage. Can anyone post a detail photo of both sides of the bike with a left side gear change crossover done with rear sets so I can compare. The bike shifts like crap, with the linkages setup in the same manner the previous owner had them, I would like to see how it is done properly. I have been staring at the lower section of the parts diagram from  http://www.laverda-paradies.de/shop/catalog.php?lng=en&cat=1000&chp=63 which shows the setup with rear sets, but I think a couple of photos might help me more as I try to orient everything for as free and as "tight" without slop as possible

Thanks

Paul LeClair
 
Summat's up, shift should be sweet as.

There are a couple of pics on the first page of this thread, here's another:

sidebrack005.jpg
 
Breganze-Engineering said:
Has anyone ever converted a 500 to RH gearchange?
It would not be too difficult with the factory rearsets....
Click to expand...

'ere you go Ross,
This is one of the Laverda Corse race bikes. Piero and Hermann both have problems with their left leg and prefer a RH change, hence the conversion. I've raced this bike with Piero and Hermann and the conversion works well. It's a down for up race change so if you're swapping from a standard LH gear change it's a bit like rubbing your tummy and patting your head at the same time.
Normally I'm OK swapping from L to R foot controls but I've found that towards the end of an endurance race fatigue sets in and concentration suffers which means I have to think too much before each gearchange,  consequently I now prefer to race my own bike with its standard LH change although I've opted for the down for up format.

BarcelonaRHgearchange.jpg


BarcelonaRHgearchange1.jpg
 
I may be wrong, but I reckon one of the keys to a decent shift is having the arms that are connected by the rose jointed rods parallel and keeping the left an right side rods on the same plane.  I've seen some at stupid angles.
 
Absolutely. The 90 operating levers ideally should set be at 90 degrees to an imaginary line running through the centres of both shafts and be parallel to one another. The rose jointed linkages should then naturally sit at 90 degrees to the operating levers which in turn will provide the most effective mechanical advantage, same goes for operating arms on drum brakes. Just logical common sense really.
Hermann's gear linkage in the pic looks about right to me , not sure about the rear brake lever though! He may have deliberately configured it that way to reduce the mechanical advantage or , like many racers he might not use the back brake.

The linkage on my back brake isn't ideal, but it provides decent modulation without being too fierce. Gear linkages aren't so forgiving and any deviation from the 90 degree rule will compromise the quality of the shift.

Barcelonabackbrakejpg.jpg



 
:D :D :D Cam , not only is it complicted, it's also rather complicated. In fact, I would go as far as to say it's complexicated. Which sounds like something George Doubleya would say.
 
I concur with Richard & Bob,  if you can achive a 90 deg angle between the operating arm & the link rod all the better, whether it be brakes or gearchange, on our Manx Norton gear linkage, one rose joint has a LH thread to achive this & to help fine tune the pedal position....
On a drum brake, the operating lever should be at 90 deg to an imaginary line drawn between the centres of the operating cam & the pivot when in the "on" position for maximum mechanical advantage....
 
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