Loosing voltage

stevepm2011 said:
Interesting thread!
I now have LiFePO4 batteries on 6 of my 10 rideable bikes.
They overwinter much better than gel batteries, due to the very low self-discharge rate.
The one bike I have to watch is my modern Triumph TTSE, which will drain the battery if left connected for long enough.
I suspect this is due to the immobilizer, clock etc., which never completely go to sleep.
The Laverdas don’t seem to have this issue.
Steve
Click to expand...
What is an immobilizer?

Paul
 
In my experience Lithium batteries are the prima donnas of the battery world. They perform well if treated with respect and everything is perfect for them, but if anything goes a little wonky, they throw a tantrum and refuse to work. Whereas lead-acid batteries are more like blue collar workers. They'll endure sub-optimal conditions without too much complaint and keep doing their job as long as they can.
 
Hi Dave, I can't send it back just yet as I'll need it for the Dumbleyung meet. I'll have to carry my battery pack to start the bike as the battery no longer cranks the bike. Hit the starter and it shuts down.
 
Mine's an LH. But I was under the clear impression that I could charge it with my very std 4AH no frills Arlec charger. It was one of the reasons I chose it!! I don't want to have to buy some fancy electronic charger with a chip controlling it. I'll have to look into it. In the meantime it's been sitting waiting to turn the motor in anger for nearly two bloody years (let's not go there!) - but the push button voltage checker still gives me 13.25V. Again ... fingers crossed. I'm certainly going back to a decent lead acid/gel if this thing fuks me around. I do NOT want to be stranded in woop woop or BFN with a flat battery that won't even allow me to push start the friggin bike.
 
Mine's an LH. But I was under the clear impression that I could charge it with my very std 4AH no frills Arlec charger. It was one of the reasons I chose it!! I

What's is say on the instruction sheet included. Mine said it need a lithium specific charger as opposed to the instruction on the LF I have in the BM which states any charger will do. Seem like 2 different batteries.
 
Been reading some spec sheets that contradict what the delivery instructions say re charging.
Anyway what ever mine is loosing voltage sitting on the bench.
 
motoddrob said:
Mine's an LH. But I was under the clear impression that I could charge it with my very std 4AH no frills Arlec charger. It was one of the reasons I chose it!! I

What's is say on the instruction sheet included. Mine said it need a lithium specific charger as opposed to the instruction on the LF I have in the BM which states any charger will do. Seem like 2 different batteries.
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Most Lithium batteries are sensitive to charge rates, the Arlec charger should be fine, and was what was used on mine.
The guy who fitted mine also bought another 2 SSB batteries at the same time and had to return one of them nfg under warranty straight away.
The purchase was made on the strength of one that he bought a year or so earlier and is still going strong. His comment to me was that the quality of the batteries has dropped off.
The absorption rate is around 14.25 v. Batteries fully charged measure 14.4 v and quickly drop to 13.4 v once removed from charger.
I guess consideration has to be given to the charge rate of the bikes reg/rec and whether this is the reason for poor Lithium battery performance.
Over charging will certainly shorten its life.
 
motoddrob said:
Been reading some spec sheets that contradict what the delivery instructions say re charging.
Anyway what ever mine is loosing voltage sitting on the bench.
Click to expand...
Yep, from the SSB site.

"SSB PowerSport Lithium Batteries are also one of the only Lithium Ion Batteries that can be charged using normal 12V car battery chargers / alternators except for chargers with Automatic Rejuvination or Desulphation Mode. "

And that was written on the site under the last battery I bought -

But the instruction sheet that came with the latest battery stated that a specific Lithium charger should be used. Weird
 
motoddrob said:
Been reading some spec sheets that contradict what the delivery instructions say re charging.
Anyway what ever mine is loosing voltage sitting on the bench.
Click to expand...
If it is discharging while sitting on the bench it is rooted Rob. I doubt that the charger is responsible. All this finicky charger stuff is great, but all batteries get put in bikes without such finicky charging systems.
 
Tippie said:
All this finicky charger stuff is great, but all batteries get put in bikes without such finicky charging systems.
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😁 yes the irony isn’t lost on me either.

But at the same time, remember that while running the bike there is some draw/charge cycling which is a lot different to charge/maintain, and generally better for batteries. And probably more important is the time spent actually working vs sitting in the garage. Batteries always wear out if they do nothing, so it’s better to keep a maintenance charge. But then a poor quality/incorrect charger will bugger a battery quicker!

It’s a vicious cycle that keeps forcing us to keep batteries in good condition by riding the bikes as long and as often as possible 😉
 
Lithium batteries are a class of battery, chemical composition varies, dependent on end use. Charging regime varies, noticeably. No load terminal volts while an indicator is not fully reflective for state of charge, or the most important internal battery impedance ( real basis for "CCA" capability ). Made the decision many years ago, a battery is a consumable item, 2 years a reasonable life for under $200 battery, used SSB, will again, just not expecting 5+ years service life. Little to be gained in inordinately expensive long life battery purchase, like a choccy wheel spin... was never impressed by choccy wheel expenditure.. many is the losing ticket in hand, or motor that cannot be cold cranked... HTH j.
 
Reunited Chris said:
Most Lithium batteries are sensitive to charge rates, the Arlec charger should be fine, and was what was used on mine.
The guy who fitted mine also bought another 2 SSB batteries at the same time and had to return one of them nfg under warranty straight away.
The purchase was made on the strength of one that he bought a year or so earlier and is still going strong. His comment to me was that the quality of the batteries has dropped off.
The absorption rate is around 14.25 v. Batteries fully charged measure 14.4 v and quickly drop to 13.4 v once removed from charger.
I guess consideration has to be given to the charge rate of the bikes reg/rec and whether this is the reason for poor Lithium battery performance.
Over charging will certainly shorten its life.
Click to expand...
My LH has been sitting doing nothing for quite some time. if the button checker shows 13.25V should I consider whacking it on the 4AH Arlec or wait until i'm just about ready to connect it up and hit the starter button?

Seems a lot of inconsistency with these - if I have any trouble I'll treat it as an expensive experiment and go back to something more ... traditional.
 
Poor battery life not limited to any one type of battery. Had a Deka AGM go to it's god just outside the warranty period. And several wet lead acid batteries, as large as I could squeeze into the frame, turn up their toes in the Laverda in the early days.
 
That's why I really like the digital voltage indicator now on my dash. I was shocked, little pun, to discover my bike was rubbing at high 15 plus volts for who knows how long via a dud Regulator. With the new regulator, it's now 14.2 BUT my Deca battery that tests fine on load struggles to spin and start a cold engine. I am betting it's been damaged by overcharging for who knows how long when it had the dud regulator fitted. so as a test I will add my car battery via jumpers and see how it spins then. So all this could have been avoided by a $20 digital voltmeter that's easily checked on the dash in real-time to see what's what as you start the bike and ride it.
 
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