Magnefine oil filter pictures

If the particles are of a significant size (individually visible as chunks) then a bit of further investigation might be worthwhile.

If they're only tiny bits (like fine powder) then they are most likely the product of normal wear of sliding components like pistons/rings/bores, clutch plates, gear teeth, cam bearings, cam lobes/followers, etc ... 

Cgeers,
Cam


 
Dellortoman said:
If they're only tiny bits (like fine powder)
Click to expand...

This is the case.


Furthermore, don?t lose the magnet. It is a perfect fit for original oil filter?

magnet1.jpg

magnet2.jpg
 
And again? I changed the spot for the magnet so it doesn't restrict the oil flow. A shred of mesh is also removed so the overall height of the filter is as it was before.

magnet3.jpg
 
Hi Rusty,

Brilliant .... I've been thinking of an oil filter for my 1981 Jota for the last 30 years. You have given me the impetus now to put one on. Can you tell me a model no. for filter. What are the hoses made from. Any little tips I should know before I make this up. I am in Brisbane Australia.

I think while I'm at it I'll also replace the oil cooler. Can someone suggest a suitable replacement. Where can I get the oil cooler hoses from. Some Lavs I have seen have braided lines .... These look the business.

Thanx
Steve
 
Jota1981 said:
Hi Rusty,

Brilliant .... I've been thinking of an oil filter for my 1981 Jota for the last 30 years. You have given me the impetus now to put one on. Can you tell me a model no. for filter. What are the hoses made from. Any little tips I should know before I make this up. I am in Brisbane Australia.

I think while I'm at it I'll also replace the oil cooler. Can someone suggest a suitable replacement. Where can I get the oil cooler hoses from. Some Lavs I have seen have braided lines .... These look the business.

Thanx
Steve
Click to expand...

Talk to Red
 
Jota1981 said:
Hi Rusty,

Brilliant .... I've been thinking of an oil filter for my 1981 Jota for the last 30 years. You have given me the impetus now to put one on. Can you tell me a model no. for filter. What are the hoses made from. Any little tips I should know before I make this up. I am in Brisbane Australia.

I think while I'm at it I'll also replace the oil cooler. Can someone suggest a suitable replacement. Where can I get the oil cooler hoses from. Some Lavs I have seen have braided lines .... These look the business.

Thanx
Steve
Click to expand...

Steve,

I use the 3/8th inch model.(it was slightly larger than the stock Laverda oil hose and could be fitted with some slight effort) They make a 5/16th that may have been a closer fit, but I wanted the largest openings on the filter that would work. I think your JOTA oil lines have fittings (my engine oil lines used hose clamps) so you will have to have one longer oil line made up with open ends to route/clamp the filter. I used a Ford ignition coil bracket with enough offset behind the oil cooler. I used the Wurth woven oil lines. I think any good automotive oil line can be used. Just match up the fittings and I/D of the hose with the Magnefine filter.

The Magnefine filters are available for you here:
BOSS COMPONENTS (AUSTRALIA) PTY LTD
WORLDWIDE HEADQUARTERS
8 Little Queen Street, Chippendale, NSW, 2008, AUSTRALIA
Tel: (612) 9699 5099 Fax: (612) 9699 4698
Contact: Stewart Elsegood

I heard the oil cooler for the Citroen 2CV will fit our bikes. Wolfgang would be the go to man for a replacement cooler.
 
Hi Rusty,

Just wondering what viscosity oil do you run. I've always run quite a thick oil in my Jota. Started with straight weight Pennzoil 50 but lately I've been using Penrite HPR40 which is a 25W/70 multigrade. I find the roller bearings and gears like the thicker oil and I have not seen any detrimental wear  in tight clearances such as cam journals.
Wondering how a thicker oil will go with the filter ?

Thanks ... I agree with you ... clean oil is a must. The last time I stripped the crank and cleaned out those stupid sludge traps I couldn't believe the amount of crap that collects in them.

Cheers
Steve
 
Marty Moose used to be a sales rep for Penrite and he uses Endro,thats a Penrite product.BLA BLA BLA zinc is all I remember.I was using there HPR 40 before changing to Endro.
 
What's Endro Vince?? never heard of it. I've been using HPR30 in all my bikes for more than 12 years now.
Mate has just clocked 250,000 kays on his GS1000PD BM. Every km lubed with HPR30. An excellent oil in my opinion.
Getting expensive though, just paid $38 yesterday for 5 litres. Also brought oil for the transmission on the tractor, that cost $290!!!
Didn't feel so bad having to fork out for the HPR30 after that. Then again I only change to tractor oil every 4 years!
 
ENDURO 4 STROKE 25W-70 (Classic Range)

Take to the road with pride. Use this non-friction modified, high zinc engine oil for air and water-cooled engines like Evolution-engined Harley Davidsons and large capacity (greater than 600cc) European motorcycles with high temperature operation and high mileage units. Harley Davidson Twin Cam and post-1992 should use HPR Gas.

25W-70, JASO MA, API SG.

NOTE : This product has not changed. Only label change


Hi Rob
Bloody hell,I just cut and pasted that.Getting better at this computer crap.
Its a bit hard to get,Marty carrys it at his workshop.BTW its another Pentrite Oil if thats not clear
 
Thanks Vince, I'll look into it. I use HPR30 in the BM and HPR30gas in the Laverdas. Can't always get the gas either.
Would be much easier using the same oil in both bikes, then I'd buy it in 20 litres drums.
Davo, I saw HPR10gas on the shelf yesterday. Didn't have the 30gas so didn't buy any.
Left with HPR30 for the BM. Did see Penrite "running in oil" that I concidered buying for the initial break-in but pass that over too after spending $330 on oils. I still have a few months before I'll be filling the 1200 motor with oil, give me time to save up again!!

 
lawrence said:
When it's time to renew the filter, is the fibre element available separately? Must you replace the entire assembly?
Click to expand...

The internal filter is not sold separably. The complete unit sells for about $15 US with free shipping on Ebay here in the USA.
 
Jota1981 said:
Hi Rusty,

Just wondering what viscosity oil do you run. I've always run quite a thick oil in my Jota. Started with straight weight Pennzoil 50 but lately I've been using Penrite HPR40 which is a 25W/70 multigrade. I find the roller bearings and gears like the thicker oil and I have not seen any detrimental wear  in tight clearances such as cam journals.
Wondering how a thicker oil will go with the filter ?

Thanks ... I agree with you ... clean oil is a must. The last time I stripped the crank and cleaned out those stupid sludge traps I couldn't believe the amount of crap that collects in them.

Cheers
Steve
Click to expand...

I use 20w50 Brad Penn M/C oil. It is the old Kendall GT1 formula made in the same refinery. 20w50 seems to work well for me. I recall the original spec from the factory was 20w50 or a single 40 or 50 weight. Our engines were designed back when oil formulations were simple and thick DINO oil was considered the best way to go for reliability. Newer oil chemistry is all the better. These days a 20w50 is considered very thick stuff.

The Magnefine has a by-pass valve, it is a differential pressure valve and will not open unless the element is blocked/occluded. Magnefine told me the filter element is good to about 100psi. I doubt even with straight 50w or 25w70 our engines produce that much pressure  If your thick engine oil will pump, the filter will work.

Yep..the junk you find on the magnet and the pleats in the filter are now not in your crank slingers.
 
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