Manifolds, Mikuni's and a measure of contentment
- Thread starter jdugen
- Start date
L
laverlesmains
Guest
a little google-ing yielded this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/277-377-447-503-Rotax-Angled-Carburetor-Mounts-Boots-Tubes-4-Mikuni-Vm-30-34mm-/320866775401
http://www.ebay.com/itm/277-377-447-503-Rotax-Angled-Carburetor-Mounts-Boots-Tubes-4-Mikuni-Vm-30-34mm-/320866775401
mcnicol
Hero member
- Location
- Safety Harbor, Florida, USA
Those rubbers look exactly the same as the ones Wolfgang sells for the same purpose, and for rather less than the eBay price (last time I bought them, anyway). A word of caution, though; they seem very stiff when they're first installed but they soften as they absorb fuel or get hot, I dunno what causes it but they get soft and sag and even let the carburetors fall off. I use them with RS36s and you have to have a bracket attaching the carbs to the top tube or they will fall off.
Ken
Ken
jdugen
Junior member
- Location
- Manchester UK
Ah well, best laid plans of men and mice..
Everything together and purring away, tried to put her into first to be met by the sound of the crunching of gears. Clutch plates stuck hard together. That's a job for tomorrow.
Pics of carb to airbox rubbers fitted.
Everything together and purring away, tried to put her into first to be met by the sound of the crunching of gears. Clutch plates stuck hard together. That's a job for tomorrow.
Pics of carb to airbox rubbers fitted.
Attachments
Frank from Quebec
Full member
- Location
- St-Ours Quebec Canada
Hi Guys,
My angle rubber intake tubes are a Snowmobile part distributed in Canada by Motovan part no. 007-10011
They would be very easy to get from any motorcycle/snowmobile store in Canada.
It might be Worth asking Wolfgang if it is the same part he sells but it seems likely.
The carbs needed the pilot and the mains enlarged and the needle raised with a thin washer.
I live dangerously and used the original Laverda/Suzuki single pull wire.
Of course the spacing is nowhere near the same so you have to fabricate some mountings.
My angle rubber intake tubes are a Snowmobile part distributed in Canada by Motovan part no. 007-10011
They would be very easy to get from any motorcycle/snowmobile store in Canada.
It might be Worth asking Wolfgang if it is the same part he sells but it seems likely.
The carbs needed the pilot and the mains enlarged and the needle raised with a thin washer.
I live dangerously and used the original Laverda/Suzuki single pull wire.
Of course the spacing is nowhere near the same so you have to fabricate some mountings.
jdugen
Junior member
- Location
- Manchester UK
Here was me thinking it would be a cover off and then get to work on the plates. No such luck with this thing! I'll need to start assembling a set of holders etc. so its going to be a little time. I'm half tempted to pour some moly-slip in there just so I can ride the damn thing. So, who does the best plate sets please, what kind of cost, new fangled matirials or standard?....
Cheers
Cheers
Stick the cover back on. Warm the bike up in neutral, pull the front brake, or better still, set the front wheel up against a sturdy wall, block your ears and put a full-hearted boot into the gear change lever... really hurts the first time you need to do it, but you do get used to it. 
No use trying to get the plates apart without the engine running, been there more often than I care to think about. You need a bit more force than this to do any internal damage, Laverda boxes are quite strong.
What sort of holders do you need for clutch disassembly? ??? Late bolted clutches come apart without the need for any special tools, even the front sprocket can stay where it is. Riveted clutches require removal of the Jesus nut, works best with a rattle gun. Very staightforward once the chain and basket are off.
Rarely come across a Laverda triple that does not show this phenomenen, twins seem less affected, even though the clutch construction is very similar.
piet
No use trying to get the plates apart without the engine running, been there more often than I care to think about. You need a bit more force than this to do any internal damage, Laverda boxes are quite strong.What sort of holders do you need for clutch disassembly? ??? Late bolted clutches come apart without the need for any special tools, even the front sprocket can stay where it is. Riveted clutches require removal of the Jesus nut, works best with a rattle gun. Very staightforward once the chain and basket are off.
Rarely come across a Laverda triple that does not show this phenomenen, twins seem less affected, even though the clutch construction is very similar.
piet
R
Reggie3cl
Guest
I used to tie the clutch lever so the plates were slightly disengaged. Dunno if this shortened the life of the cable or weakened the springs, but the clutch was always good to go in the spring.
AJ
Senior member
- Location
- 38°33'00.0"S 177°55'00"E
When my clutch is frozen I set the bike on the centre stand with some clear area in front. After the engine is warm and with the weight on the front wheel I start the bike in second gear give it a few revs and then bang down on the rear brake with the clutch pulled in. If space is limited be ready with the kill switch in case the rear wheel hits the ground and the bike launches.
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
wdietz186 said:
that could help...
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
AJ said:
less dangerous with the frontwheel put against a wall as Piet mentioned...
jdugen
Junior member
- Location
- Manchester UK
I should start a new thread, but this ball is rolling, so....
Although the plates are still a bit sticky, the problem seems to lie with the extended clutch release arm I've fitted. Because of the longer lever, I run out of arm movement about half an inch too soon. That is, with the clutch lever hard against the grip, I can still get another nearly half an inch of release arm movement if I lever it in. In this position I can engage gears and find neutral easily, as is, it grates into gear and is impossible to get neutral as the clutch is still dragging.
I can get it into gear by adjusting the cable really tight, but that is just going to burn out the release mech.
The only way I can see to skin this cat is to source a clutch lever that sits further from the bars, the clutch is light enough that a slightly extended reach won't be a problem.
Thoughts and suggestions very welcome.
Cheers
Although the plates are still a bit sticky, the problem seems to lie with the extended clutch release arm I've fitted. Because of the longer lever, I run out of arm movement about half an inch too soon. That is, with the clutch lever hard against the grip, I can still get another nearly half an inch of release arm movement if I lever it in. In this position I can engage gears and find neutral easily, as is, it grates into gear and is impossible to get neutral as the clutch is still dragging.
I can get it into gear by adjusting the cable really tight, but that is just going to burn out the release mech.
The only way I can see to skin this cat is to source a clutch lever that sits further from the bars, the clutch is light enough that a slightly extended reach won't be a problem.
Thoughts and suggestions very welcome.
Cheers
mcnicol
Hero member
- Location
- Safety Harbor, Florida, USA
JJ, it's actually possible that you have an "easy-pull" clutch lever already fitted, an after market item that actually looks a lot like the standard one but has a longer effective lever between the pivot and the nipple hole on the lever. It reduces the pull you have to exert at the expense of less cable travel. My Jots had one of these fitted as well as an extended lever at the clutch, so it had a very light pull on the lever but could never be adjusted properly.
Compare what you have to a known actual original, maybe just replacing the lever could solve most of your problems. A Laverda clutch will never behave like a Yamazukiwaki one, but it can be made at least adequate for its function.
Several people have had success with dogleg levers, but I don't what they used for donors.
Ken
Compare what you have to a known actual original, maybe just replacing the lever could solve most of your problems. A Laverda clutch will never behave like a Yamazukiwaki one, but it can be made at least adequate for its function.
Several people have had success with dogleg levers, but I don't what they used for donors.
Ken
AJ
Senior member
- Location
- 38°33'00.0"S 177°55'00"E
The only wall I have is the shed wall, timber framed with pressed steel cladding. No match for the Laverda! I make sure no health and safety officers are watching the procedure. I couldn't bring myself to jamming it into gear with no clutch. My clutch sticks after a week of sitting so I have done this a few times during the past 24 years. No mishaps yet and if it does take off I just ride up the valley pumping the brake, clutch and throttle until it frees up. The higher the gear the sooner it breaks free.
A typical problem is the extended arm hits the case before releasing the clutch enough,you need to make a slightly longer rod that passes through the countershalf.There are a few threads on this.All it needs usually is a couple of mill You need to run a bear minimum of clearance on the bar lever,you get nothing for free,the lighter action results in less throw as you have found.Mine works fine,a light action and easy neutral selection,some work less well and they get removed.I think success or failure comes down to tolerances in individual bikes.There worth persevering with.Made riding mine in twisty roads 100% more pleasant.
T
Terry Dymond
Guest
Why would some clutches stick whilst others don't. Mine doesn't (RGS with extra steel plate), lurches a bit on first engagement but certainly not a problem.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
Seems to have something to do with the clutch plate material. Mine used to stick occasionally, but since replacing the friction plates with a set of Red's kevlar plates it's never shown any hint of sticking.
T
Terry Dymond
Guest
I've still got the standard plates in; no sticking or slipping 8)
jdugen
Junior member
- Location
- Manchester UK
I took a punt on the 'Bay, more to prove the point than anything serious. This bracket and lever cost the princely sum of ?9 so I did not expect anything special. Seems well made enough although I had to ream out the nipple recess a little to fit the Lav's cable.
Fitted it up, adjusted the cable, gears engage and disengage a sweetly as you could ask. The reach is not excessive and the pull is light enough to make it a pleasure rather than a pain.
So, finally I could run her around the local back streets, have to report that she picks up fine, no coughs or hesitations. The proof of the pudding will be next week when I take her for her MOT.
Fitted it up, adjusted the cable, gears engage and disengage a sweetly as you could ask. The reach is not excessive and the pull is light enough to make it a pleasure rather than a pain.
So, finally I could run her around the local back streets, have to report that she picks up fine, no coughs or hesitations. The proof of the pudding will be next week when I take her for her MOT.
