Marzocchi RGS fork seals

Use one seal with good results on my RGS. I cut the lips off the lower seals so they serve as spacers. Seems to reduce stiction and haven't had a leaking seal for years.
 
Guess what my answer will be. So its seal then dust wipes then circlip then the cover over the lot. You need to do some grinding to the dust wipes to fit them below the circlip, the video speaks for itself. They're listed under Paoli 38mm instead of the usual brands on the oz site. Been in my 3c for a few years with zero leaks, expensive but worth the trouble to fit.
jwtimports.com.au

SKF Fork Seals

SKF has introduced a new range of fork seal kits specifically developed for heavy-duty off road use. This new generation of fork seal kit is optimized to enhance the protection with a dual lip dirt scraper design that creates a labyrinth to limit the exposure of the oil seals to mud to further...
jwtimports.com.au jwtimports.com.au
 
I do the same as Legs, Marty, on both my Corsa and my Bevel Ducrappi.

Seems to give less 'stiction', but still works ok in the sense that the oil don't pee out ;) .

But each to their own ...
 
No idea, the only thing I have read about fork oil is to stick to one brand as 10wt oil varies a lot between brands. So this fork oil starts at one weight and moves through various weights as its temperature changes, I thought all fork oil did that.
 
Variability is a bad thing, and that also applies to multi-rate springs. That promotes complication and that also increases variability. The load on the bike shouldn't change unless your pillion falls off or your luggage does as well. You would want the same response to a bump, eg the tyre staying in contact with the road. Why would ambient temperature need a different response from the suspension? Maybe in absolute extremes but who rides in -10c or over 50c. I guess bike velocity is the only variable as to how suspension is affected. BTW my guess re temperature is when working the damping oil it heats up and becomes more fluid and that's why you get remote reservoirs. That and bladers to separate the oil from the gas.
 
Vince said:
Variability is a bad thing, and that also applies to multi-rate springs. That promotes complication and that also increases variability. The load on the bike shouldn't change unless your pillion falls off or your luggage does as well. You would want the same response to a bump, eg the tyre staying in contact with the road. Why would ambient temperature need a different response from the suspension? Maybe in absolute extremes but who rides in -10c or over 50c. I guess bike velocity is the only variable as to how suspension is affected. BTW my guess re temperature is when working the damping oil it heats up and becomes more fluid and that's why you get remote reservoirs. That and bladers to separate the oil from the gas.
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All motorcyclists are nutters.
Some even ride under - 10°C or over 50°C.

Paul
 
Vince said:
Variability is a bad thing, and that also applies to multi-rate springs. That promotes complication and that also increases variability. The load on the bike shouldn't change unless your pillion falls off or your luggage does as well. You would want the same response to a bump, eg the tyre staying in contact with the road. Why would ambient temperature need a different response from the suspension? Maybe in absolute extremes but who rides in -10c or over 50c. I guess bike velocity is the only variable as to how suspension is affected. BTW my guess re temperature is when working the damping oil it heats up and becomes more fluid and that's why you get remote reservoirs. That and bladers to separate the oil from the gas.
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Multi grade oils have additives to reduce variability by keeping a similar viscosity at different temperatures. Although I’ve got no idea if the temperature changes we see in AU or NZ would make it worthwhile in forks?
Also I understand that the reservoirs are intended to provide room for the fluid and air which is displaced under compression.
 
Andy said:
Multi grade oils have additives to reduce variability by keeping a similar viscosity at different temperatures. Although I’ve got no idea if the temperature changes we see in AU or NZ would make it worthwhile in forks?
Also I understand that the reservoirs are intended to provide room for the fluid and air which is displaced under compression.
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They also look flash in the pub car park.

Paul
 
The remote reservoirs with the hose do nothing to cool the fluid since there is no circulation and the same fluid simply goes back and forth in the line. Some warm oil may enter the reservoir from the hose, but no oil from the reservoir enters the shock body. The longer the hose the less fluid exchange. They too, look cool though.
The availability of cheap Chinese optical pyrometers allows this to be easily verified in the field. “Shoot” the temp at the shock body and reservoir before and after a fast ride on a rough road and compare the temperatures. They’re not just for checking tire temperatures!
 
Vince said:
Variability is a bad thing, and that also applies to multi-rate springs. That promotes complication and that also increases variability. The load on the bike shouldn't change unless your pillion falls off or your luggage does as well.
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The point is the load on the suspension constantly changes with braking and acceleration.
Multi rate springs allow constant fork loads while riding but can stop bottoming out when braking hard.
 
I fitted some (custom turned) spring slugs to the forks of my Pan European, because the front was hopelessly soft, started at 25mm, cut them down to 20mmm, and maybe going down another 2.5mm) it cured that problem alright, (massive dive and bouncing around) and made it handle and feel much more secure, but the knock on affect was that the already terrible front brakes (Nissin sliding body two piston, four pot lookalikes) have now become very nearly totally useless (mods in planning stage) improve something and make something else worse, it's happenend a lot to me.

CLEM
 
CLEMTOG said:
I fitted some (custom turned) spring slugs to the forks of my Pan European, because the front was hopelessly soft, started at 25mm, cut them down to 20mmm, and maybe going down another 2.5mm) it cured that and how to get rid of man moobs problem alright, (massive dive and bouncing around) and made it handle and feel much more secure, but the knock on affect was that the already terrible front brakes (Nissin sliding body two piston, four pot lookalikes) have now become very nearly totally useless (mods in planning stage) improve something and make something else worse, it's happenend a lot to me.

CLEM
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That's very bad to know about your time waste.
Also thanks to you that you shared your worse experience with us so we got aware of it.
 
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Checked the 120 jota forks when i got home from the run this morning, after using the motion pro "seal mate" on the left hand leg, it is still very wet, the seals are relatively new, still nice and soft. I will order the skf ones tomorrow, looks like $60 per leg.
 
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