Mirage TS Sticking clutch plates

M

MonkeyTS

New member
Location
Cheshire United Kingdom
CLEMTOG said:
There is a lot you can do to unstick the plates of the clutch without dismantling, but it is not for the feint hearted and since you say that you are not confident to open the primary chain case, then that may well include you, the value of the bike will drop because of the missing red coach lines by quite a margin.

Koni rear shocks were not factory, they were Marzochi and it was Calere (Steve Winterton, just to be picky)

I also have owned one longer than I have had kids, 42 years and counting, and the wrong side of 250,000 kilometres

it does look like a series 1 and they are very rare, (almost all TS's are series 11) I will wager the number is in the 2604 to 2614 region, and if I am correct the primary cover, if it does in the end have to come off) is a very easy thing to do, a bit more complicated if its a series 11 with the ignition buldge on it.

with the clutch sorted. and MOT/tax exemption declared at DVLA, my suggestion is £9500
I will give you £5000 for it
CLEM
Click to expand...
Hi Clem,

Sounds like mine is a series 1 TS ? number 2988. You mention it's a very easy thing to do, if it's a Mk1. Do I need any specific tools to undertake? As I think I'm going to have a go. Seems the value would be much lower, if it's not sorted. Also Is there anything specific I need to be aware of, must do or not do? Before I remove the Primary case.

Cheers 👍🏻

Richard
 
Okay I'm going to attempt to check & possibly unseize the sticking clutch plates on my Mirage TS, as I feel having a working clutch! is much more beneficial in its forthcoming sale. I've only ever, dropped the oil & adjusted the chain, so this will be a bit more involving I sure, but I'm going to give it a go. Before I do, is there any helpful advice, you Laverda experts can offer, such as specific Tools required? Do's & Dont's? Sequence of operation? etc. I do have a manual, but TBO, it was pretty confusing, almost off putting as it seemed to cross reference other varients /models, 750cc . Ive even checked YouTube but no joy on my specific 1200 engine type. Engine No: 2988. Any practical help offered would really be most appreciated. 👍🏻👍🏻
 
You'll need either the tool to block the transmission or a rattle gun with a 36mm socket, or is it 32mm? A thin scew driver to bend back the locking tab on that crank nut.
A 10mm spanner
An external circlip plier.

Some solvent to clean up the plates which must be oiled before fitting.
Some medium strength thread locking fluid for the crank nut on reassembly.
Some patience aligning the teeth of the plates to get the drum back on.
A gasket.

Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
You'll need either the tool to block the transmission or a rattle gun with a 36mm socket, or is it 32mm? A thin scew driver to bend back the locking tab on that crank nut.
A 10mm spanner
An external circlip plier.

Some solvent to clean up the plates which must be oiled before fitting.
Some medium strength thread locking fluid for the crank nut on reassembly.
Some patience aligning the teeth of the plates to get the drum back on.
A gasket.

Paul
Click to expand...
Hi Paul, cheers for coming back so promptly. You mention a tool to block the transmission, would a normal ratchet arm along with either a 32/36mm socket, do the job? as I don't have a rattle gun? Is there a specific Laverda tool? Also you mention a gasket, is this for the crank case? If so can it be successfully re used? I'm assuming it's possibly been removed only once before if ever? If not, any idea where could I pick one up from? I'm in the UK? Thanks again. 👍🏻
 
Gasket can be re used if it doesn't tear when taking the cover off.
Blocking tool is specific. Iloc undoubtebly can lend one to members.
Gasket can be obtained from Phil Todd, Phil 37 on here.
Paul
 
Haggis said:
Have you tried freeing the clutch without taking it all apart? Apologies if you have already posted about that.
Click to expand...
Other, than changed the oil & repeatedly move the lever. I've not changed the clutch hydraulic fluid, but resistance is felt, so wasn't to sure if this would make any difference at all? Somebody said put it on its center stand and start it in gear, I assume? Then stamp on the rear brake? Others have said it has its risks? 🤷. If I could free it without hiring a rattle gun & the complexity of freeing the clutch plates, then this woul be ideal?
 
Method I have used a few times is to start the bike and roll down a hill, pull the clutch, put it into second gear when road and engine speed roughly match and then apply trottle whilst applying both brakes. Holding in the clutch in of course. You need a hill and a steady throttle hand, you don't want to go whizzing off if the clutch doesn't free when revving up 😀
 
99 times out of 135.8 cases, they can be freed without dismantling, NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART
1) start engine as normal and warm through for a good few minutes
2) stop engine
3) sit on bike off the stand on level or downhill (preferably) road which is straight for a good hundred yards or so
4) put bike in first gear
5)turn on ignition and push starter button
(this is the tricky bit, the bike will lurch forward and on a very gentle, eg a tiny tad of twist, you will be starting the motor and driving along in first gear)
6) whilst trickling forward,pull in clutch lever (this is the first time you touch it in this sequence), next tread heavilly on the rear brake, it frees! job done, if not very gently accelerate a few MPH and STAMP the rear brake pedal, it frees? job done.
7) still stuck, remove primary case and stripo chain and sprockets, undo spring pressure plate bolts, remove clutch pack in one lump, seperate p[lates with a knife edge, reverse procedure, assumes is a series 1 with no ignition on case

desirable tools
crank locker, 36mm socket for crank nut, external curclip pliers for clutch drum, clutch plate alignement tool (ILOC dont have one)
new tab washer for crank nut and Loctite, new case gasket, grease both sides for future easy removal and re-using. It can be done with less tools but improvisation can cause damage, eg broken teeth on sprockets, aligning the plates with back edge of two hacksaw blades works but is frustarting

steps 1 - 6 is a dangerous procedure, dont do it unless you have a traffic free bit of straight hard surface, I take no responsibility, etc etc, I wish I was nearer to you , maybe 650 miles!

CLEM
 
Last edited:
CLEMTOG said:
99 times out of 135.8 cases, they can be freed without dismantling, NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART
1) start engine as normal and warm through for a good few minutes
2) stop engine
3) sit on bike off the stand on level or downhill (preferably) road which is straight for a good hundred yards or so
4) put bike in first gear
5)turn on ignition and push starter button
(this is the tricky bit, the bike will lurch forward and on a very gentle, eg a tiny tad of twist, you will be starting the motor and driving along in first gear)
6) whilst trickling forward,pull in clutch lever (this is the first time you touch it in this sequence), next tread heavilly on the rear brake, it frees! job done, if not very gently accelerate a few MPH and STAMP the rear brake pedal, it frees? job done.
7) still stuck, remove primary case and stripo chain and sprockets, undo spring pressure plate bolts, remove clutch pack in one lump, seperate p[lates with a knife edge, reverse procedure, assumes is a series 1 with no ignition on case

desirable tools
crank locker, 36mm socket for crank nut, external curclip pliers for clutch drum, clutch plate alignement tool (ILOC dont have one)
new tab washer for crank nut and Loctite, new case gasket, grease both sides for future easy removal and re-using. It can be done with less tools but improvisation can cause damage, eg broken teeth on sprockets, aligning the plates with back edge of two hacksaw blades works but is frustarting

steps 1 - 6 is a dangerous procedure, dont do it unless you have a traffic free bit of straight hard surface, I take no responsibility, etc etc, I wish I was nearer to you , maybe 650 miles!

CLEM
Click to expand...
Thanks CLEM, that's fantastic advice. Really helpful. My drive is fairly steep, so I don't think I'll attempt it going downhill to the road. I think I'll try it on the road, when it's all clear. Yes it's a shame your not nearer to pop round & supervise. Mm, Sunday could be the day. Nervous anticipation 😬. 👍🏻
 
Getting heat into the oil and clutch by running the motor must help? If you could take it to a race track and ride around in gear I reckon it would eventually release its grip and set it free (like the monkey on the buzzards back :) )
 
My clutch has been sticking since I stopped using Duckhams 20/50 years ago. It sticks after a few days. Every thing else is perfect. Single finger actuation and smooth. I have rode 3km up the quiet valley behind our place trying to break it free with no result! The quick and effective way for me is warm up on the centre stand, check for 20mm plus under rear tyre- pack stand as necessary. Start bike with your weight forward, pull the clutch in then crash up through the gears to 3rd or 4th. Blip the throttle and stab hard on the rear brake, repeat until the rear wheel stops then select neutral. Job done. The momentum of the rear wheel cracks it free. You don't want to stall the motor so quick forceful braking and keep the motor revving enough. Put the front wheel up against a solid object if you are nervous!
 
AJ said:
My clutch has been sticking since I stopped using Duckhams 20/50 years ago. It sticks after a few days. Every thing else is perfect. Single finger actuation and smooth. I have rode 3km up the quiet valley behind our place trying to break it free with no result! The quick and effective way for me is warm up on the centre stand, check for 20mm plus under rear tyre- pack stand as necessary. Start bike with your weight forward, pull the clutch in then crash up through the gears to 3rd or 4th. Blip the throttle and stab hard on the rear brake, repeat until the rear wheel stops then select neutral. Job done. The momentum of the rear wheel cracks it free. You don't want to stall the motor so quick forceful braking and keep the motor revving enough. Put the front wheel up against a solid object if you are nervous!
Click to expand...
This is safest method- I do same except have front wheel against a wall, just in case. I would also tie clutch lever to handlebar overnight previous.
 
And if it doesn't work, remember that you'll have to push the bike home.
A long fine screwdriver is good for aligning the plates on rebuild, pushing on the drum aligning a couple of plates at a time. Finally tightening the clutch springs when all's aligned.
Paul
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top