Misfire of sorts at 5500rpm onwards

Might move the bike bench outside the shed next time but then I don't have a handy roof beam to hang the fuel bottle from....
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Hah hah - can sympathise and have exactly the same issue!

Resistor caps only for DMC.  No ballasts.  You certainly do have a significant volt drop there.  Good luck in locating the problem
 
Vince said:
Yep I am being a dick, but if you have been around as long as me you get to see stuff more than once. With the progressive springs,heard this quote a lot more than once. It's hard enough to get the damping right for straight rate springs without adding the complication of multirate. Icon makes a good middle of the road suspension kit. They started in Guildford in Sydney as I think the Oz agent for Koni. When Koni stopped making
twin shocks for bikes back in the 70s when singles were mainly about the Guildford blokes bought there plant out of Holland I think and set up in Albery. They make good general replacements,the only update is alloy bodied shock,still with 70s tech. Most of there setup docs refer to load on the bike,solo,with luggage, 2 up.
There far from a state of the art shop. That's there object with their progressive fork springs,older BMW owners love them as they reduce dive under brakes.
All of this is not set in stone,it's just stuff I have read and heard. What's important is how it affects your bike. Keeping the tyre in contact with the road especially in bumpy corners under brakes. Do so testing when you have your bike set for sag on those type bends and see how it goes and let up know. It's fun to get them going as well as you can. BTW those Iridium plugs were tested on some dyno runs by Paul the site owner and they didn't do well,there mainly for use in lean burn cars where there hard to replace and need a 100,000k life. Too much typing.
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Bought some non-iridium plugs today to see they work better.
 
I bought a box on NGK B8es  at trade of some recently retired Car Mechanic, nice to have spares, thanks Marty
 
It's interesting that you could pick the difference.  I wouldn't know because I've only ever used B8ES, sometimes B9ES if I'm giving it a hard caning. I've never felt the need to try the more expensive iridium.

I'm curious. In what way are the B8ES better?
 
Paul did some testing on a dyno and found some interesting results. To me just not worth the extra expense.
 
Vince said:
Paul did some testing on a dyno and found some interesting results. To me just not worth the extra expense.
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Any chance you can remember which thread? Always good to get that sort of 'only by testing' info
 
cbertozz said:
Any chance you can remember which thread? Always good to get that sort of 'only by testing' info
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Try searching "iridium", post by Paul.
 
So should a plug look like this after a couple of runs

20161218_163048-768x1024.jpg
 
cbertozz said:
So should a plug look like this after a couple of runs
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I dunno. Depends how you did the plug chop. You should cut the engine while it's under power, pull in the clutch, coast to a stop, then pull the plug and have a look. If you go out for a fang, ride home and pull the plug after the bike has been idling, chances are it'll be black and sooty.

Anyway, delving into forum history, here's a quote from Paul, posted June 16, 2008. Blimey, that's more than 8 years ago  :o

[quote author=Paul LeClair from fucking years ago]A number of us have done dyno time with our various Laverda's. First practical tip is to install NGK B8ES spark plugs. If you have any of the modern Iridium plugs in your bike (like I did) I can tell you that removing them, pitching them into the nearest garbage bin, and installing an appropriate old style and non resistor plug like the NGK B8ES is worth approximately 10 more horsepower at the rear wheel.[/quote]

 
Dellortoman said:
I dunno. Depends how you did the plug chop. You should cut the engine while it's under power, pull in the clutch, coast to a stop, then pull the plug and have a look. If you go out for a fang, ride home and pull the plug after the bike has been idling, chances are it'll be black and sooty.

Anyway, delving into forum history, here's a quote from Paul, posted June 16, 2008. Blimey, that's more than 8 years ago  :o
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Cool, well I have put the B8ES in now.

Time flies....
 
Dellortoman said:
Anyway, delving into forum history, here's a quote from Paul, posted June 16, 2008. Blimey, that's more than 8 years ago  :o
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You are very kind. I was hoping to help development of a modicum of independence.
 
Recurrence of this problem again but the things that fixed it last time have not worked.

Could an unpowered (but fully charged) battery be the problem?

One other thought - when I was trying to "shock" the nut off the rotor with a wrench could I have fucked up something?



 
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