I must have tried every computation of fork setting under the sun in that huge suspension thread, over 10,000 posts thankfully not all mine and I found a few basic things. As long as the oil level covers the damping bits, being exposed to just air is really bad and doesn't get high enough to hydro lock the fork it doesn't have a hugely obvious effect. You hear bottoming resistance but I didn't notice much of that You need to be careful to have the fork be balanced to the rear shocks, which means standing next to the bike with one foot on a peg and both ends moving similarly with downward pressure. I am pretty heavy so I ended up using 15wt, I tried 20 and that slowed the fork too much. One of the things I was trying to remove was the fork bobbing slightly up and down like an out-of-round wheel would produce. I have race tech emulators fitted and it took ages to find what I liked. My breakthrough was ending up with 4 holes in its plate, late model kits came like that, mine had 2 x 7/64th holes instead of 4. What don't you like, my goal was to use 95% of available travel on both ends and a nice plush controlled ride on rough backroads we use in a typically sporting Laverda way of riding. Using the correct spring rate is so important also the correct preload. If that's wrong you can chase your tail till the cows come home, damping changes won't fix the wrong spring rate, guess how I learned that.