Mk2 180 right outer Cover Gasket

Steve G.

Steve G.

Hero member
I’ve just installed a completely new starter sprag clutch on my ‘81 Jota, thanks a bunch to Wolfgang. New gasket in hand, my question is , should I put the gasket on dry or oil, or grease, before installing the right side cover?
 
any of them will be OK, but at a later date when removing the cover (sometimes years down the line) it is a joy to behold when you found that the gasket had been lightly greased both sides, it will just fall off, no scraping and usually you will be reusng it, do this will all engine gaskets except the cylinder head, that is a different case altogether.
CLEM
 
Thanks Clem. When I took the cover off it popped off nicely and I sort of considered reusing it, but I’ve got a couple extras so I’ll put a new one on with grease. What are your thoughts on that rubber grommet that allowed the stator wire to route into the stator? Grease around that as well?
 
Steve G. said:
What are your thoughts on that rubber grommet that allowed the stator wire to route into the stator? Grease around that as well?
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Not really necessary in my experience. The grommet doesn't stick to the case. Having said that, if bone dry a quick spray of silicone lube helps slide it into position. I'm not keen on ordinary grease being in contact with wiring, sheaths etc
 
I use rubber grease for rubbery applications like grommets, O-rings, hydraulic seals, etc. The stuff I have comes in a tube and looks like raspberry jelly.

If dielectric grease is OK for rubber, it made me wonder if the reverse is true. Is rubber grease ok for electrical applications if you don't have any dielectric grease on hand?

I did a bit of googling and it's not recommended. Rubber grease is vegetable based (maybe it is raspberry jelly) and can be electrically conductive. You could potentially introduce a short circuit using it on things like light bulbs where the + and - parts are close together.
Dielectric grease is usually silicone based and is non-conductive.
 
Thanks for the info lads. I used di-lectric grease on the gasket and the rubber grommet. Worked lovely. Sealed it up, fresh engine oil, fired right up and idled within 30 seconds without choke, and checked the alternator output, maxed out at 13.8 volts , and 12.6 at idle with the headlight on. She’s very happy!!
 
if it idles nicely after 3o seconds your idle circuit is too rich, very common, more like 3 minutes to warm it through and then not need enrichment.
A TEST
aftre a longish ride, (so th roughly warm )and say a stop for (say) a refuel do you need the chioe to get started again, or could you start it by turning on the igfntion and stabbing the starter button with a six foot pole, that will tell you if your idle circuit is correct.
CLEM
 
CLEMTOG said:
if it idles nicely after 3o seconds your idle circuit is too rich, very common, more like 3 minutes to warm it through and then not need enrichment.
A TEST
aftre a longish ride, (so th roughly warm )and say a stop for (say) a refuel do you need the chioe to get started again, or could you start it by turning on the igfntion and stabbing the starter button with a six foot pole, that will tell you if your idle circuit is correct.
CLEM
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I need to choke the bike during start even when warmed up.
 
Seems to be a point of disagreement, but many of us have to use the "choke" (which is really an enricher ciruit) on, on a warm start even when all the jetting is correct and carbs set up and bikes idles fine Usually just a quick flick of the lever as you hit the starter.
 
henrywillms said:
Seems to be a point of disagreement, but many of us have to use the "choke" (which is really an enricher ciruit) on, on a warm start even when all the jetting is correct and carbs set up and bikes idles fine Usually just a quick flick of the lever as you hit the starter.
Click to expand...
For sure, a second after it starts the choke lever is pushed off. I can tell you that if I touch the accelerator pumps whilst already warm, it is ‘flooded’ very easily.
 
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