christulin
New member
- Location
- Colorado, USA
Colorado Springs
More questions about valve adjustments.
- Thread starter christulin
- Start date
breganzane
Hero member
- Location
- NSW Australia
Chris,
Stick with 0.20 (0.008") for inlets and 0.25 (0.010") for exhausts.
Be aware I have encountered engines with soft valve springs that allow larger and larger feeler gauges in, while still just feeling 'tight'. With springs in good order there is a definite "go, no-go". Also, the reading will vary a bit due to where on the base circle you measure etc.
Get in touch with Ed (Spondonrider) in Co, he's been spannering these things for donkeys years.
Cheers
SteveB
Stick with 0.20 (0.008") for inlets and 0.25 (0.010") for exhausts.
Be aware I have encountered engines with soft valve springs that allow larger and larger feeler gauges in, while still just feeling 'tight'. With springs in good order there is a definite "go, no-go". Also, the reading will vary a bit due to where on the base circle you measure etc.
Get in touch with Ed (Spondonrider) in Co, he's been spannering these things for donkeys years.
Cheers
SteveB
I hate doing the shimming ! Apart from the danger of dropping stuff into the engine (yes the chain this time...thank gawd for my magntic topped telescopic thing), it is common for all your careful measuremnts not to equate to the predicted clearance when you torque the blocks up. seems to defy logic/science . You do need to be careful to ensure that the cam blocks locate properly ..the small ledges on which the outer blocks rest (crazily small and soft) are easily deformed and we are talking about such smalll gaps that anything wrong there will screw the process. And my rev counter drive decided to play very awkward too, meaning what is sometimes simple cam cover removal was anything but...and I was careful too, knowing the issue. 
Nick7
Nick7
D
dja981
Guest
nealebms said:The beauty of the RGS a better head and no tacho drive
Seem to remember a few posts from RGS owners complaining about their tachos not working very well. The better head I'll give you.
Dave
mcnicol
Hero member
- Location
- Safety Harbor, Florida, USA
dja981 said:The better head I'll give you.
120 riders :
. In public, too. Ken
Nick,
Next time your cam cover acts a bit stubborn, switch on the ignition and stab the starter button just enough to hit the crank for a couple of degrees of rotation while pulling upwards at the cover. It's just the meshing of the drive gears that's a bit tight. If you're wary of trying this, rotate the crank with a big ring spanner on the alternator Jesus Nut. 120 cam covers with mechanical tach drive have a different arrangement and are far easier to remove.
Similar method works for primary cover removal, a couple of turns of the crank very often shoves the cover from its seating and it can then be easily pulled off.
piet
Next time your cam cover acts a bit stubborn, switch on the ignition and stab the starter button just enough to hit the crank for a couple of degrees of rotation while pulling upwards at the cover. It's just the meshing of the drive gears that's a bit tight. If you're wary of trying this, rotate the crank with a big ring spanner on the alternator Jesus Nut. 120 cam covers with mechanical tach drive have a different arrangement and are far easier to remove.
Similar method works for primary cover removal, a couple of turns of the crank very often shoves the cover from its seating and it can then be easily pulled off.
piet
Piet
Well you need 3 hands to lift the cover whil pressing the starter surely! Remember you are talking to the current holder of the ILOC Bent Conrod award for mechanical ineptitude! Will hand over at the AGM to Clem for holing all 3 pistons courtesy of dodgy copper head gasket! Anyway it got worse....I did turn the crank gently..it jammed up and pulled the drive gear and shaft out of the cover....thought would have to cut with dremel to free, but managed it.needed some v careful remedial filing of cam gear drive...at least not so tight now.Then in a completely unrelated element, in starting up, the Circlip on my reconditioned Bosch starter goes walkies into the side cover...nice.As I have the Sachse ignition and am not familiar with how that all works,it's going to Keith for tlc...while there he will convert the clutch to hydraulic and ,per his site ,see the pics, drill and balance the clutch drum. I plan to train up to Bonnie Scotland and spend a couple of days riding back sarf to Kent...in a few weeks time it's too cold and salty for me right now! Probably have to take KTM DukeR to AGM...quite a bit of orange on it so may escape censure...and it has the same 'spirit" as a Jota,strangely...mad.
Nick7
Well you need 3 hands to lift the cover whil pressing the starter surely! Remember you are talking to the current holder of the ILOC Bent Conrod award for mechanical ineptitude! Will hand over at the AGM to Clem for holing all 3 pistons courtesy of dodgy copper head gasket! Anyway it got worse....I did turn the crank gently..it jammed up and pulled the drive gear and shaft out of the cover....thought would have to cut with dremel to free, but managed it.needed some v careful remedial filing of cam gear drive...at least not so tight now.Then in a completely unrelated element, in starting up, the Circlip on my reconditioned Bosch starter goes walkies into the side cover...nice.As I have the Sachse ignition and am not familiar with how that all works,it's going to Keith for tlc...while there he will convert the clutch to hydraulic and ,per his site ,see the pics, drill and balance the clutch drum. I plan to train up to Bonnie Scotland and spend a couple of days riding back sarf to Kent...in a few weeks time it's too cold and salty for me right now! Probably have to take KTM DukeR to AGM...quite a bit of orange on it so may escape censure...and it has the same 'spirit" as a Jota,strangely...mad.
Nick7