Mounting adapted SFC fairing

cbertozz

cbertozz

Hero member
Location
Australia
My fairing mount bolt decided to give up the ghost over the weekend so need to replace.

From what I can gather my setup is slightly modified with the fairing mounted a couple of inches further forward, which must put some strain on the components. The guys who set it up used a hex coupler between the mount and the frame. The bolt that was used sheared just inside the coupler.

I have a 12.8 steel bolt that will do the job I think but wanted to create a more robust mount setup but I know that if I just fit a stronger bolt I’m potentially putting more strain on the frame mount.

i have no welding skills so anything I do will need to be bolted together. Was thinking of running the bolt through cylinder of solid nylon so both the mount and frame are in contact with a larger surface and there might be a tiny bit of flexibility in the setup.

Anyone tacked a similar problem and found a long term solution?
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Can you post a pic of what your frame mount looks like, Carlo. Hard to visualise. Personally, I've used M12's for one of my fairing mounts and the SFQ has an M10. I don't want to have to think about it so I over-engineer. Also depends how much weight you 'cantilever' off the frame mount.
 
You definitely need a depth of vertical section against the frame or even 2 connections apart vertically to resist any bouncing, that's what caused the fail. Don't worry about tiny amounts of added weight, it needs to RACK strong if you get the joke and braced to the max to handle typical Oz roads.
 
Seems to a common fault. Mine sheared on the way to the Fire and Ice Rally in 84, managed to find the nut and by removing the washers there was just enough thread to hold it all together back to Sydney. Fixed by removing the aluminium sleeve in the silentblock tube and replacing with the largest nut and bolt that would fit.
Ian deLaine's broke on his Jota on the Coorong about 20 kays out of Kingston SE, cable ties to the rescue and a visit to a hardware store had him back on the road (bought two sets of nuts and bolts just to be safe).
 
I am a big believer in not reinventing the wheel, after breaking my home made mount a couple of times I went to the biggest wrecker in Sydney and found a good candidate off some Japanese bike and grafted it to the SS bevel fairing connection, what you need Carlo is a nice vertically deep shaped frame connector with enough space to bolt that on.You need probably 2 bolts welded onto your frame, one above the other, probably minimum 10mm and high tensile with the plate hard onto the frame.Best practice would be triple trees removed, or at least do the welding away from the bearings and cool it quick so you don't melt the grease out to much. Not exactly correct but at least no braking is a good thing. I was looking at fairing mounts for ages
 
It's interesting working out why bolts break. I had an issue with 12mm Socket head cap screws breaking on some vibratory equipment. The screws were tightened to their correct torque settings and the set up was as per the book. I discussed the issue with the bolt supplier who made the comment that bolts break if they're not tight enough. Since the torque setting was that recommended for the bolt I then almost doubled the torque to 120 Nm, hey presto, no more broken bolts, machine ran perfectly. So when talking about good quality 12mm high tensile steel bolts it doesn't hurt to tighten the bejesus out of them.
As far as making an aluminium spacer for your fairing Carlo, can do. Give me a bell and tell me what length you want.
Chris P.
 
If you want to make it bullet proof, a bolt at the top of the steering tube and another at the bottom - old version was M12, new one M10. But the distance apart spreads the stress points whereas a single mounting point concentrates every road shock at one point.
 
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