Moving pickup doesn't make a difference

G

Giles C

New member
Location
United Kingdom
Hi all,
I've just been trying to time my 500, and have got a problem.
The right side timed up closely -although the pickup had to be moved right over to its hole edge; but the left I couldn't get to make a difference.
I've tried moving it from one side all the way to the other, and it made do difference to the timing at all.
What do you think? Is it a damaged pickup maybe?
Thanks for any advice
Gc
 
Giles C said:
Hi all,
I've just been trying to time my 500, and have got a problem.
The right side timed up closely -although the pickup had to be moved right over to its hole edge; but the left I couldn't get to make a difference.
I've tried moving it from one side all the way to the other, and it made do difference to the timing at all.
What do you think? Is it a damaged pickup maybe?
Thanks for any advice
Gc
Click to expand...
Is it sparking on both pots?

Paul
 
Rotor distance is set to book, 0.1 to 0.2 i think from memory. I've had the bike for ages, but its been off the road for a few years hence the re-timing. I wasn't using my gun though, and my friends has some kind of adjustable knob on it. Maybe thats responsible as for the life of me I can't work it out otherwise.
 
I'd suggest it's possible both sides are working off the same pickup. If moving the "working" one moves the timing on both sides that will prove it.
You may have to use a compromise setting if it's not possible to get both correct.

I may be wrong of course - I've never done a 500 and don't know what ignition you have.
 
I would go with Greg, both sides firing off the same pick up.
The adjustment on the strobe gun is to zero it on full advance I believe.

Have you tried timing it statically to confirm your impressions with the strobe?

Paul
 
Thanks guys, the ignition is (afaik) factory. The pickup loom I replaced a while ago, the insulation was crumbling. I soldered as close to the pickups as I could but tbh the wires I was tinning onto were in a poor state.
I'll get time this eve to try my gun to see if my pals gun was set up advanced.
I didn't know you could check it without it running, I'll look up how to do this.
Thanks again.
Giles
 
To check it static, take the plugs out, put them in the plug caps and lay them on the head and turn the engine over by hand with the ignition on of course. See and hear when each cylinder sparks.
Could an earth on the wiring to the dud pick up produce similar symptoms?

Paul
 
Update:
So I just ran it up and checked it with my strobe and both sides are running the same amount retarded. (about 20mm)
Has anyone got a reason why i shouldn't extend the mounting plate hole to push it over a bit more? (Its at its left extremity now)
Also, its air filter is kaput. I was thinking of replacing it with another filter material, does anyone have any experience of a good swap? I've searched this but came away without a good recommendation.
Thanks a lot
Giles
 
Giles C said:
Update:
So I just ran it up and checked it with my strobe and both sides are running the same amount retarded. (about 20mm)
Has anyone got a reason why i shouldn't extend the mounting plate hole to push it over a bit more? (Its at its left extremity now)
Also, its air filter is kaput. I was thinking of replacing it with another filter material, does anyone have any experience of a good swap? I've searched this but came away without a good recommendation.
Thanks a lot
Giles
Click to expand...
I made up a filter using material made by Malossi for Corinnes 500. https://www.la-becanerie.com/mousse...ouper-malossi-universelle-double-densite.html
Is it retarded or is full advance coming in too late? How do you come up with 20mm?

Paul
 
I suggest that the pickup polarity is around the wrong way, and from the posting above, on both pickups.
CLEM

ps when attempting to tin, copper cored wires that look a little dull, use some plumbers self cleaning flux, "Everflux" is the best by far and a second to it is "Frys Powerflow" they are both very good for plumbing as well, but strangely the DIY ships dont sell Everflux, nor do some plumbing shops, in fact why do DIY shops sell so much shit and make life so hard for the DIY'ers

CLEM
 
Hi Paul, thanks for the link. I can get that here in the UK so a great help. :)
BTW did you have to replace the inlet stubs and airbox rubbers? I can't get mine to achieve a crisp throttle response so have assumed a leaky inlet. I've been using flexible conduit and some self adhesive gap seal but really could do with some proper silicone hose. It looks like a 50mm od 45° hose would do, -does that seem right for the airbox rubbers to you?
As for the stubs,.I understand they're just not available. Real pity.
Update on the ignition, the a mark is about 1cm forward of the crankcase mark. One cylinder advances at about 2k to meet this well, but the other (left) stays put. It is pretty much on the mark from tickover to 3k.
Thanks again for your help
Giles
 
Giles C said:
Hi Paul, thanks for the link. I can get that here in the UK so a great help. :)
BTW did you have to replace the inlet stubs and airbox rubbers? I can't get mine to achieve a crisp throttle response so have assumed a leaky inlet. I've been using flexible conduit and some self adhesive gap seal but really could do with some proper silicone hose. It looks like a 50mm od 45° hose would do, -does that seem right for the airbox rubbers to you?
As for the stubs,.I understand they're just not available. Real pity.
Update on the ignition, the a mark is about 1cm forward of the crankcase mark. One cylinder advances at about 2k to meet this well, but the other (left) stays put. It is pretty much on the mark from tickover to 3k.
Thanks again for your help
Giles
Click to expand...
You might want to check with Wolfgang Haerter laverda@lightspeed.ca for the rubber bits. There has been parts re manufactured.
Don't worry about airbox and stubs not being sealed. They never are.
I think airbox rubbers are indentical to the early 750 GT/SF, those are available.
For instance part n° 36. https://www.laverda-paradies.de/shop-750-14-en.html

Don't forget that the distance from the pickup to the rotor varies the moment full advance kicks in. The closer, the sooner.

Paul
 
Giles C said:
@CLEMTOG , thanks for the advice. I'm not sure how to check or fix this however, -can you clarify what I can do please?
Click to expand...
Swap the two pickup leads and run it, check that it advances with a strobe[ timing light]. As per Paul check the air gap, if too close it will always be full advance and likely to backfire/balk when trying to start.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top