Mudguard hitting middle downpipe (3CL)

Considering that your bike has got some dimensional change to the wheelbase, (of unknown consequence) I think from a safety perspective I would be getting the frame checked as a no brainer something is badly wrong with your bike if the mudguard rail is hitting the centre pipe,
Its not a modified bike to be raced its  possibly a damaged road bike that may be dangerous.???
In the long run the cost of getting it at least checked and possibly straightened could be a hell of a lot less than hospital visits as a result of a major get off.
Just my opinion.
 
Could never ride with that doubt in the back of my mind. As Maurice says, get the bike sorted before you have to be sorted. Just my pennyworth.
 
Well, seems the easy fix is:
LaverdaChopper2.jpg
 
Or this? If the mudguard hits the header under brakes ................... you're in deep shit.

LaverdaRidgedChopper.jpg


Angle of the guard shows what used to happen, prior to a beer filled thought bubble.
 
phil37 said:
...We used to cut the middle out of the back of the front mudguard loop when we changed yokes on the early proddy racers - loops are a tad expensive now though. Could fit later marzo type or other mudguard? Have also fitted "long"  top nuts of 38mm diameter when longer forks are needed. - Regards - Phil
Click to expand...

Don't do that modification, please, we had a member of the german forum with this kind of modification almost crashing the bike as the now open ends of the holder "locked" the stearing by going between headers... see:

http://www.forum.laverda-register.de/
 
chrisk said:
Or this? If the mudguard hits the header under brakes ................... you're in deep shit.

LaverdaRidgedChopper.jpg


Angle of the guard shows what used to happen, prior to a beer filled thought bubble.
Click to expand...

seen one just like that recently, may even be finished in time for next years Laverda Concours  :o


 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
2"?!  :-\ How many degrees does that relate to in mm/inches of wheelbase, degrees of rake and mm/inches of trail? Sounds major.
Click to expand...

Yeah, reckon it must be closer to 1/2". 

2? steeper head angle left a 7mm gap to be filled when I built the track triple.

piet
 
Various said:
At the moment I'm torn between getting the frame pulled back into shape a bit or just buying a later mudguard. The handling seems pretty good (although I'm still getting used to the bike), ride quality was fine and there was just a bit of a high speed weave showing itself once. So the only downside seems to be the contact between the mudguard and pipe.
Click to expand...

Hey Curious,
I'm curious as to what your wheelbase length is, simple to measure that and will tell everyone here a fair bit
at least we should be able to work out if the headstock has taken a big shunt as the first thing that happens is that the wheelbase is shortened quite a lot
and an idea as to where the rear axle sits in relation to its slot would help

 
redax5 said:
Hey Curious,
I'm curious as to what your wheelbase length is, simple to measure that and will tell everyone here a fair bit
at least we should be able to work out if the headstock has taken a big shunt as the first thing that happens is that the wheelbase is shortened quite a lot
and an idea as to where the rear axle sits in relation to its slot would help
Click to expand...

Easier to measure distance between front axle and lower M8 engine fixing bolt centres.  Should be 540mm with Ceriani forks fully extended. 

Test rode a freshly-restored '74 triple recently, centre header immediately dented... owner not amused after I explained the frame was bent.  I had brought the lack of clearance to his attention beforehand, but he didn't believe me.  His bike measures only 515mm from axle to bolt, the difference was plain to see.

The danger of the hoop clanging on the header is that it can deflect the steering on full bump, can provide some not-so-nice surprises, especially on a greasy surface.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Easier to measure distance between front axle and lower M8 engine fixing bolt centres.  Should be 540mm with Ceriani forks fully extended. 

Test rode a freshly-restored '74 triple recently, centre header immediately dented... owner not amused after I explained the frame was bent.  I had brought the lack of clearance to his attention beforehand, but he didn't believe me.  His bike measures only 515mm from axle to bolt, the difference was plain to see.

The danger of the hoop clanging on the header is that it can deflect the steering on full bump, can provide some not-so-nice surprises, especially on a greasy surface.

piet
Click to expand...

My disgraceful examples of rectifying the issue, on full bump, can provide some not-so-nice surprises ...... on any surface.
 
There you go.
If it was me I wouldn't want to trust that front end as it has obviously suffered major trauma in the past.
It would be prudent to get it into a Motoliner jig sooner than later.
I would also be looking at strengthening the bottom of the headstock as per the pic.
 
I've started getting in touch with a Motliner company so will be getting it sorted out.

What's the purpose of the bracing Grant? Is it belt and braces to make sure there's no residual effect from the shunt or is it a good idea to improve the headstock strength on the frame anyway?

Thanks.
 
Various said:
or is it a good idea to improve the headstock strength on the frame anyway?
Click to expand...

Yes, because those flimsy pogo sticks up the front flex back and forth at a rate of knots (do not look down the line of the forks when riding at 100klms, you'll never ride the thing again. And if you do, you'll never look down again) and weaken the headstock until it cracks. That's my theory anyway.
 
Down-tubes are prone to cracking. Laverda recognised the problem back in the day and issued a set of pre-cut gussets that owners could have welded in.

Owners have come up with slightly different solutions over the years. A couple of examples below.
 

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The factory only made strengthening kits for the RGS/SFC1000 frame type.
If you want to improve the frame further you could try something like this:



If you look closely you can see the weld repair to the downtubes (that were completely broken each side) just below the front tank rubber mount.
The headstock is extended 60mm and further braced back to the frame, as well as triangular gussets applied to the repaired break area. This has stiffened up the frame no end and really improves feel under braking.
 
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