My Laverda SF1 journey

chrissoz

Senior member
So I’ve owned SF 13370 since Mid 2011 – purchased from Made in Italy Motorcycles and shipped to me in Australia. Bike came with no history or documentation and was showing 45,000km.

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Was a little disappointed with the condition – cracked headlight, missing spoke and a few other bits and pieces that MIIM had not listed and were not obvious in the photos. But she ran OK and gave my 12 years of fun riding.

I changed out the bellmouth for pod filters, the original exhaust cracked after a few months and was replaced by an Armours stainless steel setup. New primay and cam chains were fitted early on in my ownership and the points were replaced with Sachse electronic ignition. Compression was a bit low at 110 and 115 PSI and it was a bit smokey. Later fitted rearsets which I think makes everything look tidier.

Roll on to mid 2023 and during a bout of covid I decided to replace the horrible hacked about wiring with an M-unit (because I like that kind of thing and hated the cramped connector blocks under the tank of the original setup). Well once I stared stripping stuff down I could not stop, decide I better look at the cylinders to see why the low compression and smoke. Pistons turned out to be 80.6 and the ring gap was 3x what was recommended so time for new pistons and a rebore.

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While peering down into the sump could see some nuggets and bit and pieces – one of which turned out to be part of a gearbox spacer…
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… split the cases and could see the missing space, bent circlip and damaged bushing on 4th gear. Apart from that everything looked good. Redax ran me up a new bushing and good to go.

While everything was apart seemed like a good opportunity to vapor blast all the cases and repaint the frame. Swingarm had been seized for a while so that was freed up and new spacers made. Rear shocks were pretty ugly so were put to one side and replaced with some lovely Nitron units from DAM Laverda. Redax supplied some fancy new pistons and a whole lot of other bits and pieces.
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Fork stations were bent so these were straightened by Greg Ball Motorcycle Engineering at the same time as the rebore.

All the electronics (regulator, coils, starter relay) are now modern items which gives so much more space to work in.

After a bit of a pause for a smashed collar bone and broken ribs everything went back together nicely but was not running that well, misfiring on one cylinder. After a bit of help from the forum and some diagnostics new carb slides and needles fixed this up and now it start usually without choke, idles beautifully and runs better than ever (or at least since it entered my possession).



Still to do – tidy up some of the wiring. Find a better way to attach the seat (so I can get at the toolkit- currently using some wingnuts but they are a pain to get in place. Decide whether to repaint the tank and side panels/restore the clocks/put an SFC faring on. Ride more.
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Should have taken more photos during the process.
 
Nice story Chris and insight into your Laverda Journey,one thing I've learnt is that you can never take enough photos it certainly helps with the reassembly,,but the main thing is you pieced it back together and shes running well.
Look forward to any updates along the way but in the meantime enjoy!
 
Hi Chris well done, BTW I once saw someone using a couple of pushbike seat bolts. The ones with the built in levers that work like nuts to hold the seat on and not need spanners to remove it. Paton Pending. This kind of gadget.
 
Nice "while I'm at it" story, Chris.

If you devise some sort of support for your headers where the underslung silencer was, you might get several 1000km out of them without constantly needing to replace the gaskets or welding up cracks... just sayin'.

Vinces' seatpost clamps are genius for the seat fixing, I've seen many Lavs in Italy with these things.

piet
 
If you devise some sort of support for your headers where the underslung silencer was, you might get several 1000km out of them without constantly needing to replace the gaskets or welding up cracks... just sayin'.
piet
Never had the gasket issue but my lovely Ducati Contis did crack. Lee uses the end of the lower frame cross tube as a mounting point to support the headers.
 
Very nice job you've done on the bike Chris. Rearsets don't just look good - they create a more ergonomically balanced seating position. Not surprised the SF1 CEV headlight shell had cracked - I don't think any SF1 survived more than 5,000 miles before that happened - ditto the original instrument bracket. Did you resleeve or bore beyond the 80.6mm max OS std Laverda bore options? Wonder how thin you can go on original sleeves?

My 2 bob's worth is steer clear of the SFC fairing as it will restrict your handlebar options considerably (if you mount it in the correct position at the correct angle). Ducati SS fairings offer more bar options but you'll still be restricted to clipons below the top clamp - might look really cool, but too low for my ageing body.

I used the seat bracket to mount indicators (rubber stemmed Kawasaki ones - Suzuki also had nice options). Replaces the seat nut and bolt. Toolkit should be under the sidecover behind the battery? No need to remove the seat to get to it.
 
Never had the gasket issue but my lovely Ducati Contis did crack. Lee uses the end of the lower frame cross tube as a mounting point to support the headers.
Mate of mine lost his entire exhaust system (SF1) on the autobahn at full clip... headers fractured at the head clamp, the single bolts holding everything up at the rear sheared when it all dropped to the ground, crazy watching it from behind! He had ignored the extra noise coming from the cracks for several days, needless to say the underslung silencer was omitted. He was quite surprised and considered himself lucky that nothing got tangled in the wheels. Another mate (SF2) needed to replace the header gaskets on a weekly basis because the system wasn't properly supported, the heavy pipe and silencer would simply wear the gasket away, no matter how tight the clamps were. They're not designed to take up this sort of strain.

piet
 
Rubber mounted at the muffler and rubber mounted half way it will be fine. Just need to find a neat way to clamp it forward of the muffler. The big junction collector is fine if you aren't into hard cornering, or keep enough margin in case you overcook a corner.
 
Its incredibly hard to fit any fairing in a way that looks good and allows comfort and clearance to the handlebars, especially if you want the bars high enough not to cripple your back. And in my case also not touching the instruments as well as I mounted mine in the fairing. The main reason why I wanted a fairing was back in the day you could cruise at 140 or more on major roads with a bit of care looking for Cops, not gana happen these days. So if I was doing it now I would be looking at one of those nose cones Mr Sock runs, similar to early Guzzis used. I think some Buells ran similar. 100% easier to do.
 
So if I was doing it now I would be looking at one of those nose cones Mr Sock runs, similar to early Guzzis used. I think some Buells ran similar. 100% easier to do.
Dart are knocking out the last of the run of the Flyscreens, like Alan's 1200 one , on EBay now, at £69.95
Can't guarantee the fit on an SF, but I'd have thought it wouldn't be too far away.

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Chris, it's obviously your choice to make it your stunner. Just my humble opinion. I love spending other people's money.BTW that link I posted was sold out, typically nice bits sell quick. I had to wait nearly 6 months for the screen I fitted to the Atlas, again that sold out quickly as well.
 
Mate of mine lost his entire exhaust system (SF1) on the autobahn at full clip... headers fractured at the head clamp, the single bolts holding everything up at the rear sheared when it all dropped to the ground

piet
There's also that varying degree of vibration in SFs from new. Ridden some shockers that will break everything and others that hold up well. I had my Contis solid mounted, which probably helps prevent the break at the headers, but contributes to spiral cracking of the muffler.

I used a bracket behind the X-pipe on the 2-1-2 SFQ system, to facilitate bolting to the two neutral light cover plate M6 threads in the cases ... but it managed to lose one or all of them a couple of times and now I leave it off (mufflers are secured front and mid). I might refit the under-motor using rubber silent blocks, but doesn't seem to need it.
 
There's also that varying degree of vibration in SFs from new. Ridden some shockers that will break everything and others that hold up well. I had my Contis solid mounted, which probably helps prevent the break at the headers, but contributes to spiral cracking of the muffler.

I used a bracket behind the X-pipe on the 2-1-2 SFQ system, to facilitate bolting to the two neutral light cover plate M6 threads in the cases ... but it managed to lose one or all of them a couple of times and now I leave it off (mufflers are secured front and mid). I might refit the under-motor using rubber silent blocks, but doesn't seem to need it.
The current exhaust setup has been on there for 13 years with no signs of cracking. Had a good look over them when it was all apart. The do not even seem to vibrate that much so probably will leave it as is for the moment.
 
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