My New Project

  • Thread starter Thread starter Grant
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AndyW said:
Superb!! Gotta love your K81s... :D :D
At what point did they relocate the horns to the side / engine mount plates?

Same time as the other changes (wheels, suspension, yokes, tank badges, primary cover) which I think was not too long after the model was released, same year.
 
The crack was opened to a deep vee and filled in. My contact said a few such repairs had been done before with good results.
This is the first 'structural' piece I have had done so time will tell.
 
Grant said:
The crack was opened to a deep vee and filled in. My contact said a few such repairs had been done before with good results.
This is the first 'structural' piece I have had done so time will tell.

Looking into it for a few minutes yesterday, it seems the depth of welding this wat can be very substantial. And the final finish very neat. I like it.
 
It might well be I use the same welder (recommended by a forum member). He repaired an M1R lower leg for my 1000 SFC (DPO broke  a part at the top away while trying to get the oil-seal out...). I recommended him also for a BMW R26 gearbox welding, which turned out very nice, too! Great results, still fair costs (compared to the fact that the parts are not available anymore...).
 
chrisk said:
Looking into it for a few minutes yesterday, it seems the depth of welding this wat can be very substantial. And the final finish very neat. I like it.

Cracks in this area of the crankcase are usually the result of loose engine mounts, or tension resulting from uneven tightening of the mounts in the frame.  Especially the triples have quite a bit of clearance between frame and engine lugs, this should be shimmed instead of just doing up the bolts.  The correct sequence is to tighten the rear RH bolts and shim the LH mounts to suit.  Then the lower and front mounts are tightened.  This reduces induced stresses into the frame and crankcase to an absolute minimum.

This particualar crankcase had the bottom mounts worn away due to looseness (for not only for a week or 2), from whatever cause, perhaps living in Spain for most of its life has something to do with it... :D

piet
 
Fussy engine builders put wrapping on the connecting rods to protect them against nicks when clanking against the crankcase mouths. But it looks like you're re-using old rods, so it doesn't matter. They'll already be bashed around.  ;)
 
those handlebars look almost the same rake and height as the ones I made recently for TOG. although yours are clearly bent and not cut/welded tube as are mine. Now I have been riding with them for around 1000k's I do like what I have changed.

Grant, I would be interested to know what yours measure from lh tip to rh tip (centre of tube to centre of tube), if this is not trimmed before final assembly. Mine feel very slightly a tad too wide, and even 10mm off each end makes a noticeable difference.
CLEM
 
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