Neiman steering lock - replacement key

Davo said:
If they want it, they will get it. Half the bikes stolen in Perth are taken by guys with a ute with a hoist, just lift then onto the tray and they are gone.
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:o There are thieves in Australia? :o Round them all up put them on a boat and send them to ----------------------------oh

                                          Dave
 
Davo said:
If they want it, they will get it. Half the bikes stolen in Perth are taken by guys with a ute with a hoist, just lift then onto the tray and they are gone.
Click to expand...



Give em to me to restore,least the wheels and engine will stay on the floor :D

(good eh Simon :D)
 
so, back on track here....

I have the 82 1200 TS stripped to the bare frame and ready for sandblasting, except for the steering lock. I have no key for the lock.

Is there any way to get one of these locks re keyed?

Or, do I just drill it out..... :(

Paul LeClair
 
That was my original question Paul. It seems the general consensus is no. Nobody has the key codes.

If you are talented at picking locks you may be able to extract the lock barrel intact, in which case any locksmith could then make a key to suit.

I resorted to the drill. There's an old thread somewhere with the recipe for drilling the lock out.

Cam

Edit: Here it is http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,42593.msg78845.html#msg78845

If you're a cup-half-full kind of bloke, you could leave the lock undisturbed, in the hope that one day you'll find a key that fits. Just mask over it when you paint.
 
Paul drill it out and fit a new one by the time you bought a key to match the lock you will have bought a nice shiney new complete lock assembly with a cover, but just be careful you may have to shorten the end of the pin.
Good luck,
M.
 
Paul LeClair said:
Or, do I just drill it out..... :(

Paul LeClair
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Don't fart around with a drill. If the frame is stripped down it is easier just to give it a hard smack with a decent weight hammer and drift (breaks off the little locking tab) and then push it back out. Takes about 10 seconds and is one of the reasons they are bloody useless as a lock in the first place.
 
so, on the 82 Mirage frame is stripped and steering yokes are out. Could just bash the lock with a hammer and drift and punch it into the steering head, leaving an empty hole.

or, at some later point I can either luck out and find a key that works, or I can drill the lock out with the bike completely assembled.

as I am getting ready to go to the sandblasting rental place within the next few days it appears I have a decision to make.

Thanks all for the info!

Paul LeClair
 
I don't think it's quite a 10 second job Dave. You have to prise off the cover before you can withdraw the lock barrel. That takes another 10 seconds  :D

It's not that easy to push the lock back out again unless you can get inside the steering head. The little spring isn't strong enough to eject it if the lock pin has been "deformed" by a hammer strike. The only way I could get mine out was with a self-tapping screw tightened into the key hole, then prising it out with a claw hammer.

As you said a few posts back, if crooks want the bike, they'll take it. Steering and disk locks are only a deterrent to casual opportunist thieves. A high tensile lock and chain and to an anchor cast into a concrete floor might delay a serious thief for another 10 seconds - the time it takes to cut the chain with an angle grinder.

I had my garage broken into once. It was drug-addled youths looking for something easy to steal. I caught them in the act so I dunno what they would have taken if they'd not been disturbed, but they didn't have any burglary tools with them to cut locks so it would only have been whatever they could pick up. They got away after a struggle but the cops nabbed them within half an hour. Not really criminal masterminds.
 
Dellortoman said:
I don't think it's quite a 10 second job Dave. You have to prise off the cover before you can withdraw the lock barrel. That takes another 10 seconds  :D

It's not that easy to push the lock back out again unless you can get inside the steering head. The little spring isn't strong enough to eject it if the lock pin has been "deformed" by a hammer strike. The only way I could get mine out was with a self-tapping screw tightened into the key hole, then prising it out with a claw hammer.

As you said a few posts back, if crooks want the bike, they'll take it. Steering and disk locks are only a deterrent to casual opportunist thieves. A high tensile lock and chain and to an anchor cast into a concrete floor might delay a serious thief for another 10 seconds - the time it takes to cut the chain with an angle grinder.

I had my garage broken into once. It was drug-addled youths looking for something easy to steal. I caught them in the act so I dunno what they would have taken if they'd not been disturbed, but they didn't have any burglary tools with them to cut locks so it would only have been whatever they could pick up. They got away after a struggle but the cops nabbed them within half an hour. Not really criminal masterminds.
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Compared to you  :D

                    Dave
 
Paul LeClair said:
so, on the 82 Mirage frame is stripped and steering yokes are out. Could just bash the lock with a hammer and drift and punch it into the steering head, leaving an empty hole.

Paul LeClair
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It will not go into the steering head as the plate at the base of the hole the spring sits on will prevent that. You will either have to push it out backwards from inside the steering head ( I levered it using a lung screwdriver) or pull it back out as per Cam's method. Still easier and quicker than drilling.
 
Davo said:
( I levered it using a lung screwdriver)
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Davo,
I actually googled 'lung screwdriver', I thought it was some medical tool you medicos use to repair crushed ribs or something.
I was disappointed, all I got was 'long screwdriver'  :D

Oh, It really isn't a big deal to drill out the lock!
 
I actually do use a bit of medical kit when working on the bike. The long forceps are particularly useful for pick dropped bolts and washers etc back up out of hard to get to places. Also good for clamping onto nuts and screws to get them started in tight spots where fitting with fat fingers is difficult. Add in scalpels, headlight and loupe and liquid nitrogen etc etc.
 
My toolbox has a good range of medical stuff, several forcepts of different lengths, glass syringes, #3 and 4 scalpel handles with my favorite 10a and #23 blades as well as dental picks etc.
Still use scalpels on a daily basis but the forcepts haven't been used since my Petrol Chem modelmaking days. Still use the syringes for Methylene Chloride to glue styrene sheet, measuring MEKP when fibreglassing and today to add 10% thinners to the 2K clearcoat I just mixed to spray the carbon chainguard and instrument panel. The scalpels are my most used tool, probably a day doesn't go by without using the scalpel at least once.
 
motoddrob said:
The scalpels are my most used tool, probably a day doesn't go by without using the scalpel at least once.
Click to expand...

Same here. Just had use of one before lunch today  :D
 
I just bought an EBC clutch holding tool for my 1000 Vstrom which has the ongoing problem with the  clutch hub, they only last 20k to 30k km before they wear and cause a vibration. I see there are many different variations of the tool required for the different clutches on different bikes. Surely the motorcycle repair shops don't have multiple holders, is there a universal tool that grabs the clutch and is better than a screwdriver? Or with air tools to break the nut are these tools becoming obsolete?
 
Henry, yes, bike shops do have to stock a range of clutch holding tools, at least when they do it right. There is a cheapo universal tool that's a modified vise grip with right angle extensions (http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Tusk-Clutch-Holding-Tool-ATV-Motorcycle-Dirt-Bike-/00/s/NDAwWDQwMA==/$(KGrHqF,!isE68hB,zqhBPTP+gUKng~~60_12.JPG, for example) but it's like all universal tools, doesn't work properly with anything. It's easy enough to use an old spare clutch plate and weld a bar onto it, the genuine factory ones are often massively overpriced (I saw a Ducati one listed for over $200 once).
I used to have a Bultaco flywheel holding tool that was a well-made steel strap wrench that would fit many clutches, that was a good compromise. But I haven't seen one of them in ages...

Ken
 
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