Neutral light function (180)

T

treoleileagh

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Location
Australia
My neutral light worked when I put the bike in the garage the other day. It isn't working now. I haven't had time to follow wires or test connections but I've been trying to mull my way over it during a long interstate drive. Question: should the neutral light switch also isolate the starter when the bike is in gear? (the bike still starts normally)
Thanks
Chris
 
treoleileagh said:
Question: should the neutral light switch also isolate the starter when the bike is in gear? (the bike still starts normally)
Click to expand...


No.
Probably a loose wire or bad earth...
 
the neutral switch is in fact an earthing switch firstly remove the wire from the switch and ground to the crankcase the globe should illuminate if it does something is wrong with the switching sometimes these switches need shimming as the plunger wears.
 
mauricejota7604 said:
the neutral switch is in fact an earthing switch firstly remove the wire from the switch and ground to the crankcase the globe should illuminate if it does something is wrong with the switching sometimes these switches need shimming as the plunger wears.
Click to expand...

If the plunger is worn shouldn't you need to reduce the shims?

Sometimes the switch is just stuffed.
 
Thanks, I did check quickly and there was power at the connection on the switch. So the problem must be that the switch isn't making earth. Worn switch or sticky plunger? Thanks again.
Chris
 
You were right the first time Chris. You should be able to measure 12V at the neutral switch terminal when the ignition is switched on (and it's not in neutral). The voltage comes from the battery via the neutral light globe. When neutral is selected, the wire is grounded via the switch, allowing the current to flow through the globe.
 
Since there's voltage at the switch but no neutral light, now I'm thinking something else must be earthing through the switch and by-passing the light. I guess it would have to be something with a connection inside the tacho? Instrument lights or charge light the most likely culprits. Does that sound right?
 
It can't bypass the light by earthing through the switch. That's how the switch works - by providing a path to earth when in neutral. If the switch short-circuits, the neutral light will be on all the time.

Voltage at the neutral switch indicates that your neutral light circuit and the globe are OK but the switch itself is faulty.

Pull the wire off the switch and touch it to the crankcase. Neutral light should come on. If it does, the switch is buggered. (If you can't see the light while you're messing about under the engine, temporarily attach another piece of wire onto the neutral switch wire to extend it, and earth it in any convenient spot).

If the neutral light still doesn't come on when you earth the switch wire, then you're getting a voltage at the switch from somewhere other than the neutral light circuit. That means something is connected wrongly in your wiring system.

If you can confirm that the switch is faulty, you know what to do. Wolfgang probably has them.
 
Before you take out the switch, drain the oil, please. This might sound dump me telling you, but guess why I say it...  (banghead)

The neutral switch sometimes IS shimmed with two washers. if so, you might be lucky and simply can remove one (or take a thiner one).

Typically, it is not that the switch completely brakes, the top brass part simply wears to a degree, where the neutral switch does not touch the according gearbox part to make the earth connection.

You can check the switch after you took it out. I am not 100% sure anymore if you just need to connect the center brass-part to the engine case (power switched on...) or if you need to press the brass part into the switch. others might be able to tell maybe?!?

 
Okay, with an empty gearbox it'll be the right time to try to improve the gear selection too. Neutral is hard to find by feel (the main reason why losing the light is a bugger).
I know this topic has been thrashed about pretty well already.
Thanks again
Chris
 
treoleileagh said:
Okay, with an empty gearbox it'll be the right time to try to improve the gear selection too. Neutral is hard to find by feel (the main reason why losing the light is a bugger).
Click to expand...


This can sometimes be a symptom of the neutral light switch being screwed in too far/tight (my experience anyway).
 
treoleileagh said:
Okay, with an empty gearbox it'll be the right time to try to improve the gear selection too. Neutral is hard to find by feel (the main reason why losing the light is a bugger).
I know this topic has been thrashed about pretty well already.
Thanks again
Chris
Click to expand...

The switch function can be tested on the bench with a multimeter, just check continuity when actuated.  Add or remove sealing washers/shims to give the easiest shifter drum movement with the switch just working.

I do this as a matter of course when rebuilding motors.

piet
 
I wouldn't have guessed the switch could impact the gearchange. I suppose it doesn't when it's correctly shimmed. I've no idea who might have worked on the gearbox before - if anyone ever has.
Anyway, I'm away from home for another week and of got an action plan now for when I get back.
Thanks for the help and guidance.
 
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