Neutral Light

Franc

Franc

New member
Location
UK - Midlands
Any advice on investigating the neutral switch on my SF1 it works but requires a bit of jiggling, starter solenoid taking the negative low amp feed off this so can be a nuisance to start without looking like I’ve developed an ankle and foot twitch..

Like most jobs I’m sure there is a way to go about this that someone can give me some pointers - thanks in advance.
Franc
 
Switch is easily changed for new.
The switches are shimmed so the remedy may be there.
What has the starter relay got to do with it?

Paul
 
I assume Franc has wired the switch to the starter solenoid, preventing the bike to start if it's not in neutral.
 
Thanks Paul I’ll drop it out and have a look - yes it’s wired to prevent starting in gear I don’t think that’s entirely necessary but seems like a reasonable safety measure - is there a negative aspect to this ?
 
Franc said:
Thanks Paul I’ll drop it out and have a look - yes it’s wired to prevent starting in gear I don’t think that’s entirely necessary but seems like a reasonable safety measure - is there a negative aspect to this ?
Click to expand...
Think stalling on an incline... gearbox in gear and you fantically trying to select neutral in a loaded gearbox. No amount of pulling the clutch will unload the box to aid selection, you will repeatedly jump over neutral. Good luck.

piet
 
Never needed or wanted such a safety measure in decades of riding. As Piet says, being able to start the bike in gear with the clutch in is a positive. I can't see the bike flying dangerously forwards if you inadvertently hit the starter when it's in gear. Each to their own though, of course ...
 
Well if you don't have a clutch lever depress SX for to engage the starter solenoid you have to ground the starter solinoid through the neutral SX or you can be in for CRAP - Implemented at around 72 1/2 for Breganzies - Look at thier wiring diagrams for them years. Breganzie woke up and rewired.

Cost me $900 for a starter back in 71 because when I accidentally hit the starter button at Hi-Revs on a new SF.
 
Last edited:
Ron, laverdas never had a clutch lever cut out right through to the last Breganzie that left the line.
Advice to any newby is to listen to the experts on this forum
 
motoddrob - Bullshit !

What are you going to do - Start the bike up when it's in gear ?

Not only cost me a starter it also blew the back plate of the starter clutch when I accidentally hit the starter button at 7200rpm while gearing down ;o(

Today starters only engage when you depress the clutch.
 
Last edited:
Laverda SF said:
Look at thier wiring diagrams for them years. Breganzie woke up and rewired.
Click to expand...
You must be looking at the wiring diagrams with your eyes crossed because that never happened. The Laverda factory never wired their starters via the neutral switch on any breganze model.

I agree with the others. It's better to wire the starter independently of the neutral switch, as it's supposed to be. It would drive me nuts not being able to pull the clutch to re-start in the event of a stall, so I think the modification creates causes more problems than it solves.

The argument for wiring the starter via the neutral switch that's been quoted on this forum is to avoid the potential disaster of inadvertently hitting the starter button while riding, thereby engaging the starter motor at high engine revs, causing it to spin up to a gazillion revs and self-destruct. But that's flawed logic. It can't happen because there's a sprag clutch between the starter motor and the engine which operates a bit like a non-return valve. The starter motor can turn the engine, but the engine can't drive back through the starter gear and spin up the starter. The only way the engine could spin up the starter motor would be if the sprag clutch seized. In that case, it's not going to matter how the starter is wired.
 
The argument for wiring the starter via the neutral switch that's been quoted on this forum is to avoid the potential disaster of inadvertently hitting the starter button while riding, thereby engaging the starter motor at high engine revs, causing it to spin up to a gazillion revs and self-destruct. But that's flawed logic. It can't happen because there's a sprag clutch between the starter motor and the engine which operates a bit like a non-return valve. The starter motor can turn the engine, but the engine can't drive back through the starter gear and spin up the starter. The only way the engine could spin up the starter motor would be if the sprag clutch seized. In that case, it's not going to matter how the starter is wired.
Click to expand...
Exactamundo!
 
Well the wiring in my bike may have been specific for the 200 SF0 models shipped unassembled in wooden crates to Canada - What more can I say.

Rare and desirable 750SF with that wiring issue ;o)

I'm just notifying Breganzie 750 Noob's to aware of this issue if the bike is prior to 72 although it may not be a European or Aussie issue on them early SF's ?

Just saying if you do not have a clutch depressor SX when starting your Breganzie - Insure the starter solenoid is grounded through the neutral switch so that you can only start her in neutral.

For the OP of this thread considering he power to the bulb perhaps either it's burnt, not seated in the socket or ground wire broken to the neutral sx in the tranny - maybe his neutral switch need a cleaning or replacement - It's a very simple SX - Sometimes you have to file or stack washers on it for it work. ;o)
 
Last edited:
Yogi, he might be your mate but when disinformation is posted about non issues and new owners take that on board it needs to be called out.
I hope you have taken your mates advise re neutral cut out on your laverdas.
My last post in this topic.
 
Why the fuck would Canada want/need a Laverda to have clutch safety switch fitted in the early 70's when no other bike (that I'm aware of) in the world had one back then? Not even the Jappers.

Ron may be correct, but I think he is incorrect this time.
 
Francs' issue will most probably disappear once his switch is properly shimmed/spaced. These switches are quite sturdy and generally last forever. Slight oil leaks can be cured by re-pressing the crimping of the switch body over the plastic internal bit.

The pin that actuates the actual switching wears over time, causing erratic behavior once it reaches a certain threshold. A 0.5mm thinner shim (soft alloy washers are used here and are available) will be enough to get everything back in line.

Cams assessment of the starting situation with the engine running is totally correct, no way the starter would actually engage with the engine once revs are higher than the starter can manage... unless you've completely fucked the sprag clutch beforehand. Then, it's your own fault, not that of the starter, relay, sprag, wiring or Breganze.

Perhaps some bright canadian spark handling the imports back then thought it was a good idea, Ron obviously thinks so. Can't imagine why, though.

piet
 
Thanks for all the comments if it makes any difference the bike was originally from the Netherlands dont know what the spec was there.- The first thing I found was the wire to the neutral switch was blue with heatshrink up it and not in good shape at the switch end.. I've cleaned and put the switch assembly back, with 2 independant, properly grounded out wires, one now direct to the solenoid and one for the neutral light. I see both opinions but for me it seemed a cleaner way of connecting up, - am pleased to say the SF light now works flawlessly. Another Job done...
 
If you're that worried about hitting the starter button while in gear, add a switch to your clutch lever that only enables the starter when the clutch lever is pulled in...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top