Neutral light
- Thread starter Mirage80
- Start date
The Sock
Hero member
- Location
- London, England
It's near the rear of the bottom crankcase, indicated.
You do know Hamish that the switch can be accessed from outside of the crankcase?
The Sock
Hero member
- Location
- London, England
I showed where to find it, Paul, which was the original question.
breganzane
Hero member
- Location
- NSW Australia
This is a common issue, it often just needs some adjustment of the position via shimming the gasket. At the top right there is a search button, then select 'Advanced Search', stick 'neutral switch' into that and feast on many previous discussions on the topic.
To summarise, the first and easiest step is to remove the wire from the switch and ground it to the crankcase (which is what the switch does when it actuates). The light should come on. This tests the entirety of the system other than the switch. Then test the switch itself with an ohm meter, should be infinite (or many k or M ohms) when in gear and near enough to zero when in neutral.
To summarise, the first and easiest step is to remove the wire from the switch and ground it to the crankcase (which is what the switch does when it actuates). The light should come on. This tests the entirety of the system other than the switch. Then test the switch itself with an ohm meter, should be infinite (or many k or M ohms) when in gear and near enough to zero when in neutral.
No, under and to the rear of the lower crankcase. Look at the arrow on Hamish's photo.
The Sock
Hero member
- Location
- London, England
Technically, it is under the starter motor, Paul, which is under the carburettors, which are under the petrol tank.
It's under the gears and selector quadrant, too.
Well, technically, it's under our balls, for those that have them.Technically, it is under the starter motor, Paul, which is under the carburettors, which are under the petrol tank.
It's under the gears and selector quadrant, too.
Paul
The neutral switch yes. 17mm socket after having drained the oil.
Paul
mauricejota7604
Hero member
- Location
- Victoria Australia
You may need a thin walled socket to get up into that recess that the switch sits in.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
Blimey, it's not that hard to find. If all else fails, follow the wire that goes under the gearbox. Look for something that resembles an oil drain plug on the underside of the gearbox, but it has (or should have) a wire attached to it. If the wire is detached, then you've also found the reason it's not working. It's recessed a bit, but not so much that you can't find it.
Since you initially thought the globe might have blown, it follows that the light isn't lighting at all (it can fail the other way, light won't go out). So, the wire being detached from the switch is a possibility. I think the original switches have a little threaded (about M4 thread?) stud sticking down and the wire should have a ring terminal crimped onto it that goes on the stud, with a nut to secure it. I've also seen aftermarket switches that have a spade terminal rather than a stud, so yours could be either. If the nut has come loose and vibrated off, then the wire and ring terminal will be dangling down. Another possible failure is that the wire can break just behind the crimp. It can also break inside the insulation, perhaps from mechanical damage (hit by a rock or something), in which case it appears to be attached but there's a hidden break. The little terminal stud can also snap off if something bashes it from underneath.
If all wiring is intact and there's voltage at the neutral switch terminal when you switch the ignition on, then there's a problem with the switch itself. It may be a matter of re-adjusting the depth that the switch plunger protrudes into the gearbox (with shims), or the switch is terminally knackered and needs replacing.
As Paul said, either drain the oil before removing the switch, or put an oil catch tray under it because it'll do a good imitation of a drain plug when you remove it.
Since you initially thought the globe might have blown, it follows that the light isn't lighting at all (it can fail the other way, light won't go out). So, the wire being detached from the switch is a possibility. I think the original switches have a little threaded (about M4 thread?) stud sticking down and the wire should have a ring terminal crimped onto it that goes on the stud, with a nut to secure it. I've also seen aftermarket switches that have a spade terminal rather than a stud, so yours could be either. If the nut has come loose and vibrated off, then the wire and ring terminal will be dangling down. Another possible failure is that the wire can break just behind the crimp. It can also break inside the insulation, perhaps from mechanical damage (hit by a rock or something), in which case it appears to be attached but there's a hidden break. The little terminal stud can also snap off if something bashes it from underneath.
If all wiring is intact and there's voltage at the neutral switch terminal when you switch the ignition on, then there's a problem with the switch itself. It may be a matter of re-adjusting the depth that the switch plunger protrudes into the gearbox (with shims), or the switch is terminally knackered and needs replacing.
As Paul said, either drain the oil before removing the switch, or put an oil catch tray under it because it'll do a good imitation of a drain plug when you remove it.
CLEMTOG
Hero member
getting too complicated, find the switch, (its unnder the crankcase in a recess and then with a short piece of wire, ground the brass terminal nut to earth, with ignition in the on position the lamp should be alight, if its not, take the switch out (remeber toi catch the 3 litres or so of oil)
CLEM
ps mine hasn't worked in more than 20 years, am not bothered
CLEM
ps mine hasn't worked in more than 20 years, am not bothered
pf1
Hero member
- Location
- Portsmouth UK
Why do you need it? Mine never worked.
Rob
Hero member
- Location
- Midlands, UK
It's either faulty wiring or switch.
1. Remove wire from switch and leave hanging free. Does light go out? If yes, switch is the issue. If no wiring is earthing out somewhere.
2. Did you replace all the shims as found on the switch body? If not, then you'll need to reshim.
3. Unscrew switch, replace wire and hold switch body against engine case. Operate switch plunger to check function.
1. Remove wire from switch and leave hanging free. Does light go out? If yes, switch is the issue. If no wiring is earthing out somewhere.
2. Did you replace all the shims as found on the switch body? If not, then you'll need to reshim.
3. Unscrew switch, replace wire and hold switch body against engine case. Operate switch plunger to check function.